M3Run

Hello all,
I currently got my hands on a 1987 Rx7 FC. Its been sitting for a while and ive read many threads on how to prep it to run again. Ive taken out the the plugs and sprayed fogging oil into it. Cranked it by hand and it cranks smoothly and you can hear the compression when the plugs are off and you crank it. Ive put a new temporary battery for now and the accesories work. Like wipers, headlights, turn signals, and the radio antenna goes up and down. Though theres no sound from the radio either its broken or idk how to use it lol. The brake light is on the dash also but im guessing due to low brake fluid. Heres the park that im having trouble with. When i try to turn the car on, all i hear is just 1 click and everything turns off until i take the battery off and put it back on then the accesories come back. But everytime i try to crank it on, i would just hear 1 click and then everything turns off. Any thoughts? Any help would be awesome thanks.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Is the clutch soft or non existant?
there is a Safety switch that you can by pass on the clutch pedal to see if the car will roll over IF the clutch is bad or the hydraulics in the clutch are gone.
Another thing is: have you tested the starter to see if it is OK?..
you said you cranked it,but I am assuming by hand and not by the car's own power source(battery)

M3Run

The clutch seems slightly soft but its there. Where would the switch be right under the clutch? And wouldnt i activate the switch if i step on the clutch?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can see if the car has the starter cut relay. It would be located between the trailing coil and the main relay. It has only one plug and has 4 wires to it. If it has this relay then check to see if there is voltage on the thicker of the two Black/Green wires w/key to start and the clutch depressed. If there isn't then perhaps you have an issue w/the interlock switch located at the clutch pedal. It has two wires colored Black/Red and Black/Green (if it has other colors then it's not the interlock switch but likely the clutch switch which is not part of the starting circuit). The B/G wire of the interlock has voltage w/key to start. W/the key to start and the pedal depressed the B/G wire of the interlock then receives voltage from its B/R wire.

M3Run

Mystery solved! The battery terminals were loose lol. I got it to start with starting fluid but there seems to be no fuel. I gotta poke around with a multimeter. But have no access to the fuel pump due to rusted screws. Anyone got a good way of removing rusted screws around the fuel pump?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

dont pull the fuel pump. Just jump it and see if it works. If it turns on, it should at least get you idling.

M3Run

Jump it? Just like hook it straight to a battery lol? Sorry new to this

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Correct, test to see the voltage it is receiving at the connector (driver side of hatch, under carpet behind wheel well). Grab the FSM from foxed.ca too.

Once you've established it is getting sufficient power, then worry about removing the eight Phillips head screws that secure the pump hangar to the tank. I'll be straight with you about it: this will SUCK. Soak them with PB Blaster daily for a few days before attempting. Also, I STRONGLY RECOMMEND a 1/4" drive spinner handle (with a #2 Phillips bit & adapter) that can accept a ratchet handle on top. This is so you can apply as much downforce as possible while breaking them loose with the ratchet. I used the exact same setup and none stripped out. After you remove them, throw them away and replace them with hex head bolts. M4x0.7 thread, 15mm long.