CCarlisi

I finally got my car back together. I learned a couple things along the way that I wanted to share with everybody that is thinking about doing this project.

Here is the final list of what was installed:
-lower inner control arm bushings (#25-460) $52 each (2)=$104
-lower middle ctrl arm bushings (#26-230) $35 each (2)=$70
-lower outer ctrl arm bushings (#26-230) $35 each (2)=70
-upper outer ctrl arm bushings (#26-230) $35 each (2)=$70
-upper inner ctrl arm bushiings (#28-8c0)$40 each (4)=160
-aftermarket trailing arms, toe links =$450
-aftermarket Differential mounts=$100
-Koni yellow sport shocks =$600
-Eibach pro kit springs = $250
-Alignment bolts, nuts= $15
-Alignment=$60
-Labor(see below for breakdown)=$500
GRAND TOTAL =$2445.00

1. The highest setting on the Koni sport shocks is exactly equal to the length of the stock shocks. I was previously told the middle setting is equal to stock. In the rear the distance on the stock shock from the lower mount to the spring perch is 9.5in. I measured the Koni rear with the perch set to the highest position and got the same measurement. The same goes for the front.

2. I created homemade dust boots for my trailing arm and toe link ball joints using small lengths of bicycle tube and zip ties. Total cost was about $6 and it was very easy to do. Just cut a length of tube that’s about 1in wider than the ball joint ends, poke a small hole in the middle of the section, push the threaded portion of the rod end through it and zip tie the other ends around the spacers. I used a 700c 1 ¼ in tube. If I had to do it again I think I would go one size smaller to get a better fit around the spacers.

3. Labor ran me $560 total: 100 to press out the old bushings and the new ones in, 250 to remove and reinstall all the suspension arms, including the dif mount cradle, 150 to install the koni shocks and mount the Eibach springs, 60 for alignment (to be completed on Friday). If I had my own garage (as I do back home in NY) I still would have paid someone to do the press work. The rest of the install, excluding maybe the dif mounts, was pretty straight forward.

4. Noise: The suspension is now completely silent. The dif mounts transmit a bit more exhaust and gear noise than the stock mounts but it is not at all obnoxious. The added exhaust noise seems to make the overall tone a little deeper than before, which is never a bad thing.

5. Ride: I have the Koni shocks set in the middle of the adjustment range. With the Eibach springs the ride is a bit stiffer than stock but not jarring. It feels German taut-more like an E46 M3 than an E36 though.

6. Handling/performance: Keep in mind the car hasn’t been aligned yet (scheduled for Friday) so the following is subject to change. In general it definitely feels more predicable than it did with the worn stock bushings and shocks. Bumps do not upset the car’s line nearly as much as and it is easier to feel what the rear tires are doing. Breakaway is also more progressive. With the stock setup my grip in the rear was either complete or absence. Now I can cycle back and forth between sticking and drifting using the throttle. I still get a bit of wheel hope when launching, but it is of a much lower magnitude.

7. What was confirmed to be broken on my stock setup after tearing everything apart:
-dif mounts were cracked and leaking
-all the ball joints in the rear suspension had varying degrees of freeplay.
-trailing arms had free play

8. What did not need to be replaced:
-the inner bushing/bearings for the top and bottom rear control arms were fine. Given the cost of these items (around 250 total) I strongly recommend inspecting them before going on a shopping spree for rear suspension bushings.
-The toe links also did not appear to be worn.

Overall the project cost a lot more than I originally anticipated but I am still happy with the end result. Now I can go back to spending money under the hood

-Chris C.

CCarlisi

ball joint boot

CCarlisi

koni length

DamonB

You're right about the Koni length; tallest setting is stock.

I like the bicycle tube trick but it may tear the way you did it. Remember on the car as the suspension moves the end links will be rotating around the eyes. Since the outer edges are fast with the zip ties I would figure it won't be long before the inner tube begins to split near the threaded end. Keep us posted because it's a great idea though.

SPOautos

What replacement mounts and bushings did you use???

Also man, I know you had those Koni's rebuilt under thier lifetime warrenty. Did you have to submit anything showing you were the original purchaser or did they just take them back to quesitons asked? How long did they last you before needed to be worked over?

Thanks,
STEPHEN

CCarlisi

DamonB:
I am also concerned about the tube ripping. In retrospect I should have made the holes with a hole punch or something of that nature to get a smooth, tear resistant edge around the opening. I'll snap a couple pictures of them during the next oil change to show how they're doing.


SPOAUTOS:
The shocks are in fact brand new. The originals were REPLACED rather than rebuilt by koni under warranty. This was a suprise to me because as you can see from the letter below the tech said "one" can be replaced under warranty. You can also see from his response that they do require a receipt. However, my receipt did not have my name on it or any customer information (from the old days of KDR and they seemed to be fine with it. I faxed it to them too.

From koni:

"I've looked at the shocks. One front lost it's gas pressure and can be replaced under warranty. However, I do not have any information from you for the warranty to occur. I need a copy of the purchase receipt in order to send replacements. Please send me a copy when you can. Thanks."

The first set was installed for a very short period of time. They felt underdamped from day one so they were pull off the car and sat in a garage for over a year. Once I finally sent them back to koni the process took about two weeks. They are very friendly and responsive.

CCarlisi

-The dif mounts are Nylon and made by a porsche tuner in the area.
-The trailing arms and toe links are from rotormotorsports (basically the same as all the others).

-all the ball joints were replaced with stock balljoints
-all the bushings (I believe they are really bearings with rubber around them) are stock replacements.

I included the mazda shop diagram numbers above for other people that are interested in ordering them.

SPOautos

Thanks for all the info man!!!! If I need to get these used Koni's I'm getting rebuilt I might PM you for some info if you dont mind.

Thanks a ton!!!
STEPHEN

CCarlisi

No problem. If anything else comes up drop me a line on AOL IM under my forum name.

Good luck

-Chris

PVerdieck

OK. I just got my Koni Yellows. I assume by highest setting, you are referring to the 3 indentations the retention ring fits into, and the highest/tallest would be the one closest to the top of the shock?

That would make the most sense, given that is what they are currently set to, and you would think they would send them out in stock configuration.

DamonB

Just to be more specific, closest to the top of the shock as it is installed on the car. This is the stock ride height.

CCarlisi

yep yep. Stock =the indent closest to the shock piston.

SPOautos

So with the top setting being stock height, what did you set your at? Did you use the stock setting or lower it a little? How does it look?

CCarlisi

I set mine at the stock height. I also installed Eibach springs. My front spoiler was already 1 inch lower than stock due to my direct feed radiator duct. For that reason I didn't want to push my luck. I wanted to measure the ride height of the car before and after the Eibach install but forget to get around to taking the "before" measurement. I'll put up the "after" measurement in the near future though

CCarlisi

Here is a before after pic of the front of the car. Unfortunantly it doesn't give any indication of the change in fender lip gap.

BEFORE:



AFTER: