Thermostat location 93 rx7 r1
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Thermostat location 93 rx7 r1
I am very new to the rotaries, so please bear with me. I recently bought a 1993 Rx7 R1 and would like to do a thermostat swap on it. I searched and some people said its right on top behind the filler neck with 3 10mm bolts, and then according to all data its on the bottom of the motor and like a 2 hour job.
Can anyone give me a picture of where it is, how to change it, etc??
Also, whats the proper procedure for bleeding the system on this car??
Thanks much in advance.
Can anyone give me a picture of where it is, how to change it, etc??
Also, whats the proper procedure for bleeding the system on this car??
Thanks much in advance.
#2
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Check the FAQ under the topic of "cooling" and you'll find some very useful links. Also dig into that thread and the sites linked from it - you'll learn more material quickly that way.
The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Excuse me he's obviously right. You don't need to remove the water pump housing, it's the filler neck that comes off.
Dave
Dave
Sorry, im at work and cant view any pics right now
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#8
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Check the FAQ under the topic of "cooling" and you'll find some very useful links. Also dig into that thread and the sites linked from it - you'll learn more material quickly that way.
The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
edit: I found it nvm
Last edited by Pianoman; 05-02-07 at 02:49 PM.
#10
Urban Combat Vet
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Again...you really should download the Factory Service Manual and review there.
It's three (IIRC) 10 mm bolts as reflected in the picture above. I STRONGLY suggest getting the OEM MAZDA t-stat, NOT one from the local Autozone. Make a note of what side faces out when you take the old out. Pretty easy job compared to some cars I've owned. Probably why there isn't a specific "how to".
It's three (IIRC) 10 mm bolts as reflected in the picture above. I STRONGLY suggest getting the OEM MAZDA t-stat, NOT one from the local Autozone. Make a note of what side faces out when you take the old out. Pretty easy job compared to some cars I've owned. Probably why there isn't a specific "how to".
#13
RX-7 Bad Ass
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As stated in this thread and shown in the picture, it's 3 bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the water pump housing.
Dale
Dale
#16
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Is it safe to run the car with the thermostat completely out in order to diagnose overheating as the thermostat being locked shut? Or is there another way to find out if the thermostat is stuck. I'm in a warm environment and not worried about waiting a while for it to warm up to operating temps I just want to see if there is flow through the radiator without the thermostat before buying a new one
#17
Time or Money, Pick one
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You can run the car without a thermostat safely for testing purposes. Some guys will track their car with one but I prefer run one.
You can remove your thermostat and put in a pot of water on the stove and make sure it opens, you can also put a thermometer in the water to check at which temp it opens. The Stants I tested all seemed to open at 205ish for me, and they're 180 degree units.
You can remove your thermostat and put in a pot of water on the stove and make sure it opens, you can also put a thermometer in the water to check at which temp it opens. The Stants I tested all seemed to open at 205ish for me, and they're 180 degree units.
#18
F'n Newbie...
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Is it safe to run the car with the thermostat completely out in order to diagnose overheating as the thermostat being locked shut? Or is there another way to find out if the thermostat is stuck. I'm in a warm environment and not worried about waiting a while for it to warm up to operating temps I just want to see if there is flow through the radiator without the thermostat before buying a new one
#19
F'n Newbie...
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Good info from a link posted earlier in the thread:
So I found this site full of all sorts of service manuals from the oldschool rotaries up to the Rx-8. It's run by a guy who is on here. Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
anyway, I've been reading these when I'm bored (which is a lot lately), and I stumbled across this in the Rx-3 FSM:
This just confirms what we all knew. Another interesting thing about OEM thermostats: every single service manual I have looked at, Rx-2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 (both 12A and 13B), has the thermostat opening at 82C/180F and fully opening at 95C/203F--except this one:
That's from the Rotary Engine Pick Up, which had one of the only USDM 13B's offered in the 70s. It's interesting how people freak out if their water temps get over 200 degrees F and yet Mazda designed the engine to run at these sustained temperatures for a long period of time.
anyway, I've been reading these when I'm bored (which is a lot lately), and I stumbled across this in the Rx-3 FSM:
This just confirms what we all knew. Another interesting thing about OEM thermostats: every single service manual I have looked at, Rx-2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 (both 12A and 13B), has the thermostat opening at 82C/180F and fully opening at 95C/203F--except this one:
That's from the Rotary Engine Pick Up, which had one of the only USDM 13B's offered in the 70s. It's interesting how people freak out if their water temps get over 200 degrees F and yet Mazda designed the engine to run at these sustained temperatures for a long period of time.
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