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Thermostat location 93 rx7 r1

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Old 05-02-07, 11:48 AM
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Question Thermostat location 93 rx7 r1

I am very new to the rotaries, so please bear with me. I recently bought a 1993 Rx7 R1 and would like to do a thermostat swap on it. I searched and some people said its right on top behind the filler neck with 3 10mm bolts, and then according to all data its on the bottom of the motor and like a 2 hour job.

Can anyone give me a picture of where it is, how to change it, etc??

Also, whats the proper procedure for bleeding the system on this car??

Thanks much in advance.
Old 05-02-07, 12:04 PM
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Check the FAQ under the topic of "cooling" and you'll find some very useful links. Also dig into that thread and the sites linked from it - you'll learn more material quickly that way.

The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
Old 05-02-07, 01:35 PM
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I have just the picture you are looking for. It's an easy job and the thermostat just pops in without special tools once you have unbolted the filler neck.

Old 05-02-07, 01:44 PM
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Excuse me he's obviously right. You don't need to remove the water pump housing, it's the filler neck that comes off.

Dave
Old 05-02-07, 02:09 PM
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Definitely download the Factory service manual linked on this site in the FAQs. All data has lied to me way too many times.
Old 05-02-07, 02:15 PM
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thanks guys for the help!!
Old 05-02-07, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Excuse me he's obviously right. You don't need to remove the water pump housing, it's the filler neck that comes off.

Dave
So I really dont need to remove the water pump housing then?

Sorry, im at work and cant view any pics right now
Old 05-02-07, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Check the FAQ under the topic of "cooling" and you'll find some very useful links. Also dig into that thread and the sites linked from it - you'll learn more material quickly that way.

The thermostat is behind the water pump housing. It's not a huge job, but it's more than 3 bolts. Check the Factory Service Manual, which you can download from the appropriate sticky thread at the top of the forum.
I went to FAQ and searched cooling and nothign came up

edit: I found it nvm

Last edited by Pianoman; 05-02-07 at 02:49 PM.
Old 06-30-10, 05:00 PM
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i also search it and nothing comes up. how did you find it?
Old 06-30-10, 09:06 PM
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Again...you really should download the Factory Service Manual and review there.

It's three (IIRC) 10 mm bolts as reflected in the picture above. I STRONGLY suggest getting the OEM MAZDA t-stat, NOT one from the local Autozone. Make a note of what side faces out when you take the old out. Pretty easy job compared to some cars I've owned. Probably why there isn't a specific "how to".
Old 07-01-10, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by fixit
i also search it and nothing comes up. how did you find it?
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/another-reason-use-oem-thermostats-pic-853811/
Old 11-24-13, 07:16 AM
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a quick question guys : how many screws are on the thermmostat housing ? 2
Old 11-24-13, 08:54 AM
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As stated in this thread and shown in the picture, it's 3 bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the water pump housing.

Dale
Old 11-24-13, 11:14 AM
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the posted picture is a write up all by itself... its pretty much step-by-step
Old 11-26-13, 01:20 AM
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Thanks ppl
Old 07-06-16, 08:01 PM
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Is it safe to run the car with the thermostat completely out in order to diagnose overheating as the thermostat being locked shut? Or is there another way to find out if the thermostat is stuck. I'm in a warm environment and not worried about waiting a while for it to warm up to operating temps I just want to see if there is flow through the radiator without the thermostat before buying a new one
Old 07-06-16, 08:47 PM
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You can run the car without a thermostat safely for testing purposes. Some guys will track their car with one but I prefer run one.

You can remove your thermostat and put in a pot of water on the stove and make sure it opens, you can also put a thermometer in the water to check at which temp it opens. The Stants I tested all seemed to open at 205ish for me, and they're 180 degree units.
Old 07-07-16, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Morebst7
Is it safe to run the car with the thermostat completely out in order to diagnose overheating as the thermostat being locked shut? Or is there another way to find out if the thermostat is stuck. I'm in a warm environment and not worried about waiting a while for it to warm up to operating temps I just want to see if there is flow through the radiator without the thermostat before buying a new one
Remove the thermostat completely and plop it in a pot of water, observe the t-stat as the water comes to a boil (hint, the water should NOT need to come to a boil for the t-stat to activate, 212f/100c is boiling, and you REALLY shouldn't need to go over 185f/85c for this test). Doing this you can track A) If the t-stat opens completely or not, and B) what temperature the T-stat begins and finishes opening at.
Old 07-07-16, 08:29 AM
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Good info from a link posted earlier in the thread:

Originally Posted by arghx
So I found this site full of all sorts of service manuals from the oldschool rotaries up to the Rx-8. It's run by a guy who is on here. Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

anyway, I've been reading these when I'm bored (which is a lot lately), and I stumbled across this in the Rx-3 FSM:



This just confirms what we all knew. Another interesting thing about OEM thermostats: every single service manual I have looked at, Rx-2, 3, 4, 7, and 8 (both 12A and 13B), has the thermostat opening at 82C/180F and fully opening at 95C/203F--except this one:



That's from the Rotary Engine Pick Up, which had one of the only USDM 13B's offered in the 70s. It's interesting how people freak out if their water temps get over 200 degrees F and yet Mazda designed the engine to run at these sustained temperatures for a long period of time.
Old 07-16-16, 10:22 AM
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^Great info that spells out nicely why removing a T-stat on the FD is a bad idea, and leads to worse cooling performance.
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