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There is a picture on page 8 showing how to jumper wire it. By the way, mine hasn't clicked in 3 plus years now since running a new wire as shown on page 5.
When implementing the starter relay fix, is it really necessary to use such as high amperage relay such as the Omron G8JN-1C6T-F-DC12 (40amp)? If it's just sending a signal to the starter solenoid to engage which then pulls power directly from the battery than shouldn't the amperage be quite low? Just checking before I make an attempt at throwing together my own relay setup.
Saw the post. Thanks for the info. My concern was with rewiring or potentially bypassing devices in the ignition loop. I'd like to keep things as close to stock as possible and it seemed like the relay would provide the extra kick needed.
I picked up these guys off of Amazon. It's a waterproof Hella relay (part #007794301) and associated harness. Figured since it's sitting under the car and vital to the car starting it was a good idea to spring for the waterproof parts. About $20 total.
My FD stranded me last weekend with this problem. Did the bypass trick and it started right up. Are there no side effects or potential problems with leaving the jumper wire in permanently?
Tip from my experience: About a week before the stranding incident I was driving the FD and could hear that relay clicking all by itself as I was driving on the highway. If you hear that relay going off at weird times, get your jumper wire ready.
I may have developed this problem over the weekend. During an autocross, my car wouldn't crank (and therefore wouldn't start) for my final run. Ended up push starting it, doing the run, and heading home (where it still wouldn't crank). Battery is fine and all accessories work.
It's a JDM car though, which complicates things. Given that there is no security relay, does anyone know where the equivalent connection would be to run a 10g cable directly to the starter, as outlined in this thread for USDM cars?
JDM cars don't require that you push the clutch in to start them
It is assumed that because you are Japanese you will be intelligent enough to ensure the car is not in gear lol
JDM cars don't require that you push the clutch in to start them
It is assumed that because you are Japanese you will be intelligent enough to ensure the car is not in gear
lol
I just did the H302 relay bypass, removed the relay and connector, cut the 2 heavy gauge wires, soldered them together, heat shrink and tape on top, now the car starts. Thanks to Rx7club and all the members that take the time to share their tech tips.
In my experience, the only way to fix the click click start issue was to rewire the starter with a relay. Bypassing the H302 relay in the kick panel did not work.
If you don't care about retaining the clutch-in safety to start the car, you can just wire your starter directly. Otherwise, use a relay... I did it in much the same way others did, here's my writeup:
I've had the intermittent starter click issue for a while, sometimes accompanied by slow cranking as well. It started a few years ago out of the blue. I had removed the Viper alarm that was in my car when I bought it and I spliced the stock wires, although I'm not sure if removing the alarm is what caused the problem. I noticed at the same time that my driver's side tire had contacted the harness. I thought that was the issue but after fixing it and verifying it was fixed, it still didn't fix the clicking issue. WHen the problem first started I had a full size yellow top in the passenger bin and had 4ga cable running straight to the starter. I tried jumping with other batteries, charging boxes, etc and nothing worked.
First I replaced the starter, no luck. Then I added extra grounds from battery to chassis, still no luck. After some troubleshooting I noticed that if I turned the key all the way forward until it stopped I would have the slow crank issue. I replaced the ignition switch and the slow crank issue went away for the most part, but not the clicking. I've changed to 0ga cable from battery to starter, and also run the 0ga ground from battery directly to the transmission. When I first had the issues I had switched from a store bought bulkhead connector to a homemade one that I had verified wasn't grounding to the chassis. I was using a regular bolt for the pass through, so I switched to a brass bolt and nuts, but that didn't help either, nor did the 0ga cable.
I switched starters again but only because I wanted the RX-8 internals for faster cranking, and it didn't fix the clicking problem.
Over time the clicking issue has gotten better, but it hasn't gone away completely. And sometimes it's worse than others. Most of the time it only clicks a few times, but one time recently it clicked at least 100 times before starting, and when it finally engaged I got the slow crank issue again. It seems as though when I have the steering column pulled down to test it, the problem goes away. Then it comes back when I have everything back to normal. I noticed that the end of the lock cylinder isn't as big as the hole it fits into on the ignition switch.
The starter cut relay was bypassed before already when I started having the problem. I plugged the relay back in and it didn't change anything, so I left it plugged in like stock.
The only thing I can think to change now is adding a wire between the ignition switch and starter, or the starter cut relay to starter like Tom did. Other than that I'm lost. I have no idea what causes the issue, if something I do exacerbates the problem, etc.
On another note, my alarm started working again after years of not working, I think after Chris Ludwig built the harness for the new ECU but I'm just guessing. My alarm sets when the doors, hood and hatch are closed, the doors don't have to be locked. Is this normal?
After looking at this Starter Interlock wiring -why is the wire that goes to the ecu so big? - RX7Club.com , I decided to simply run a 10 gauge wire from the big black/blue wire at the security starter cut relay plug straight to the starter. So far it works great. This was fairly simple to do, and easier than wiring up that relay starter booster. I figure this way helps compared to stock because it gets rid of alot of connections the power had to transfer through and old longer wiring to get to the starter. I wanted to see if doing this simple wire mod would make the starter work every time, and since it is easier that wiring up a starter booster relay.
Just some 10 gauge wire and 2 wire connectors and wire loom I already had. I already had a hole in the firewall with a rubber grommet for other wires so I easily ran the wire through there. I can easily switch back to how it was before if needed, I didn't cut into any of the stock wiring. See picture, I also wrapped some duct tape around it so it doesn't come loose.
I did this today took ten minutes. I also had a no start issue and jumped the relay to get the click click click start issue. I ran a wire through the hood release grommet one end with a male spade to the connector everyone jumps and the other a female spade to the starter itself. Works awesome.
^I did that as well today. I noticed my issues seem to pop up after the car has been driven a while, it's usually good when starting cold. I haven't driven the car to test the problem yet, but so far it's working just trying to start cold.
I'm going to have to do this mod as well. My car never had this issue and I was so proud, almost smug actually. Well that's what I get because it came down on me with a vengeance, usually clicks a dozen times before she cranks.Add this to the never ending to do list on the car. Thanks guys! Appreciate the info
If you end up running the wire from the connector to the starter way like I did. You will lose the functionality of the clutch safety switch just a heads up.
03-11-15, 07:52 PM
