Window relay mod help!
12-30-10, 11:48 AM
#1
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Window relay mod help!
http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.p...123079&start=0
This one, I can't see how I get the pass. side working. It seems he says you do both on the driver side, but I can't find any proof for where to put the two relays for the passenger side window. The power to the window does go through the driver side, but is that where you put the relay then?
This one, I can't see how I get the pass. side working. It seems he says you do both on the driver side, but I can't find any proof for where to put the two relays for the passenger side window. The power to the window does go through the driver side, but is that where you put the relay then?
12-30-10, 12:34 PM
#2
See diagram for explanation.
It's the same idea, just do it on the passenger's side with 2 more relays. The operation of the window switch is simple. Ground is applied to both sides at all times. Window won't move that way. Once you move the switch, it applies power to one side. The relays use the 87a contact, which is normally closed, to apply ground at all times to the motors. Once you move the switch, it energizes one of the relays to apply power to one of the motor wires, making it move in that direction.
It's the same idea, just do it on the passenger's side with 2 more relays. The operation of the window switch is simple. Ground is applied to both sides at all times. Window won't move that way. Once you move the switch, it applies power to one side. The relays use the 87a contact, which is normally closed, to apply ground at all times to the motors. Once you move the switch, it energizes one of the relays to apply power to one of the motor wires, making it move in that direction.
12-30-10, 01:34 PM
#3
You could put all 4 relays in the driver door, all the circuits are there.
I chose to put 2 relays in each door. They are mounted with self drillers to the inner door skin with the box of the relay internal to the door. Another way of describing this is that the relays are mounted so that the BACK of the relay faces the inside of the passenger area.
Good Luck!
I chose to put 2 relays in each door. They are mounted with self drillers to the inner door skin with the box of the relay internal to the door. Another way of describing this is that the relays are mounted so that the BACK of the relay faces the inside of the passenger area.
Good Luck!
12-30-10, 03:03 PM
#4
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Mounting and connecting is no problem, I am halfway an electrician 
But, diagrams ain't my strongest thing :P
So, I connect both on the drivers side, two relays to drivers window (up/down), and two for the pass window (up/down). I can use the same earth for all 4 since I connect all on the same side.
How will it be since the power is so wacked, isnt it: Driver side switch - bypass in the pass switch - motor? And the pass switch on a separate, so that would in theory need its own relays as well?
But, diagrams ain't my strongest thing :PSo, I connect both on the drivers side, two relays to drivers window (up/down), and two for the pass window (up/down). I can use the same earth for all 4 since I connect all on the same side.
How will it be since the power is so wacked, isnt it: Driver side switch - bypass in the pass switch - motor? And the pass switch on a separate, so that would in theory need its own relays as well?
12-30-10, 03:34 PM
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I cant understand this :P Okay, the relays are between the switches and the motors, they got the power in there. Since the switches are bi-polarized, what is connected to the plus and minus in on the switch? And out from the switches? I can't get this, simply as that. I will draw something for you to understand what I dont :P
12-30-10, 03:48 PM
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What now? Can someone either finish the drawing or explain what I draw next? ANd what I erase ofc, because something is still missing here.
With a fast eye, I can see that I forgot the 12V in on the relays. But what about the 12V in on the switches, what goes there instead? Same with ground there.
With a fast eye, I can see that I forgot the 12V in on the relays. But what about the 12V in on the switches, what goes there instead? Same with ground there.
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12-30-10, 04:14 PM
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I might seem a bit stupid here, but as I read the tut once again, I noticed he used the term "tapped" into the factory harness.
The power to the switches originally, that is supposed to be just as it is, right? The relays take the power from those wires AS WELL, not only the relays (opposite of now, ONLY the switches)?
I suck with 12V, especially in cars (computers work fine
)
The power to the switches originally, that is supposed to be just as it is, right? The relays take the power from those wires AS WELL, not only the relays (opposite of now, ONLY the switches)?
I suck with 12V, especially in cars (computers work fine
)
Last edited by jimmydanny; 12-30-10 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Got a new diagram that might be right(er)
12-30-10, 04:33 PM
#9
Yes just tap the original 12v wire that was going into the switch originally into 87 of the relay. On the passenger side, if you want to keep the window lock feature from the driver side, tap from the driver side power as well, if not then just have the passenger run it's own power.
12-30-10, 06:07 PM
#11
Why are you trying to draw diagrams if you are not good with diagrams? The whole purpose of this forum is to share information. That information is readily available if you search. Here, I did it for you!
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+relay+icemark
Diagrams in post #1 will work, use 2 relays per door.
Follow the instructions in post #11 if you are having trouble with the diagrams.
One if these two posts in should help you, since you are nearly an electrician.
Good Luck.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+relay+icemark
Diagrams in post #1 will work, use 2 relays per door.
Follow the instructions in post #11 if you are having trouble with the diagrams.
No, take the passengers window at the passengers window switch.
wire two relays like this.
12 volt switched from the drivers switch to pin 87 of each relay.
ground to pin 87a and 85 of each relay
Output from the switch (that was going to the motor, but you have now cut) to pin 86 of each relay.
Wire that goes to the motor to Pin 30 of the relay.
One relay for each wire that is going to the motor (so one relay for the red wire and one relay for the green wire).
So almost wired the same as the drawing, just some minor tweaks
wire two relays like this.
12 volt switched from the drivers switch to pin 87 of each relay.
ground to pin 87a and 85 of each relay
Output from the switch (that was going to the motor, but you have now cut) to pin 86 of each relay.
Wire that goes to the motor to Pin 30 of the relay.
One relay for each wire that is going to the motor (so one relay for the red wire and one relay for the green wire).
So almost wired the same as the drawing, just some minor tweaks
Good Luck.
12-30-10, 07:55 PM
#13
Your diagram is correct too. You could put the relays in the driver's door, but there's an issue with that. Yes, it's electrically the same, but the whole reason for doing the relay mod is because you don't want all the current going through the switch contacts. They get dirty and corrode over time, and you don't want to power a motor through such high resistance. You'll end up with voltage drops across the contacts, giving you a slow-working window motor.
09-11-11, 12:32 AM
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It's not the resistance via the door switch's as much as the resistance that builds up between the battery and ALL the various connections the power has to get through to get to the window switch in the first place. The slow window issue is no different than the sticky starter issue.
If you want to get trick, install an aftermarket one touch module and run the constant hot directly to the battery. Much easier install and you get a modern window operations on top of it all. My windows fly up now with one touch.
If you want to get trick, install an aftermarket one touch module and run the constant hot directly to the battery. Much easier install and you get a modern window operations on top of it all. My windows fly up now with one touch.
09-11-11, 01:25 PM
#19
It's not the resistance via the door switch's as much as the resistance that builds up between the battery and ALL the various connections the power has to get through to get to the window switch in the first place. The slow window issue is no different than the sticky starter issue.
If you want to get trick, install an aftermarket one touch module and run the constant hot directly to the battery. Much easier install and you get a modern window operations on top of it all. My windows fly up now with one touch.
If you want to get trick, install an aftermarket one touch module and run the constant hot directly to the battery. Much easier install and you get a modern window operations on top of it all. My windows fly up now with one touch.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-WC1000
THX!!!
09-11-11, 05:03 PM
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Well I'll be a monkey's Uncle. I didn't know this existed.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-WC1000
THX!!!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HFM-WC1000
THX!!!
There are several different makers of these kind of unit. I used a Delphi model. The one you linked to is more inexpesive than mine, so I'm very curious how it works out. Please report back.
09-11-12, 08:02 PM
#21
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One thing to also consider in which approach to take, the plastic rocker arms of the factory window switch's are relatively fragile evidence by the constant WTB Driver Side Window Switch's that show up in the 2nd Gen and regional forums. And that they're getting harder to find, the price is going up.
If you install a one touch module, you are substantially reducing the wear and tear on the window switch itself.
If you install a one touch module, you are substantially reducing the wear and tear on the window switch itself.
05-23-14, 03:05 AM
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my windows have been working not so well recently and the passenger side doesn't work at all anymore... I'm considering doing this mod. like phiruckus, i can't find the T-plugs.
i'm not quite sure what is the need for those plug... basically you built a short harness with the 2 relays and the T plugs, and then you clip this harness in between the factory harness plug and the switch plug ? like this you don't mess with the factory harness and have a removable mod ?
edit : just had a better look, you connect the output of the relay to plug in order to connect to the wiper motor ?
i'm not quite sure what is the need for those plug... basically you built a short harness with the 2 relays and the T plugs, and then you clip this harness in between the factory harness plug and the switch plug ? like this you don't mess with the factory harness and have a removable mod ?
edit : just had a better look, you connect the output of the relay to plug in order to connect to the wiper motor ?
05-28-14, 03:34 AM
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another question, for 12v and ground on passenger side. is it wise to use the 12v and grd going in the switch (and therefore passing through the driver switch if i understood correctly, or should i take another power line (don't know what is available in the area)