What Size Is The Flywheel Nut?
10-19-04, 09:34 AM
#4
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My flywheel was surprisingly easy to remove considering all the horror stories I had read on the forums. All I had to do was thread the nut back on a little (so the flywheel doesn't fall off and hurt something) and beat the flywheel with a rubber mallet until it vibrated itself off. The nut was easy too once I borrowed a socket and impact gun from work.
10-19-04, 09:37 AM
#5
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Flywheel fun
Boy your going to have fun if you dont have air tools, or something that will lock the engine TIGHT. We used a piece of 9 foot long angled bedframe and bolted it to the flywheel and then kept adding on to our breaker bar. However like all nuts try bouncing in either direction for a second to attempt to crack her. I suggest if you can using air tool;they works like a charm. If you dont have a flywheel puller you can just bolt an old 1/2" thick piece of metal and then thread the bolts on the flywheel. Most of the time it wont come off with just pure force, so try hitting it with a hammer a cuple times to "vibrate" the thing off. I wish luck to you and ur rotary project!
10-19-04, 10:12 AM
#7
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dont try to heat it with spark plugs, sump plug, and oil filler cap on... one of my mates nearly lost an eye... and he had a HUGE bruise on his head for about a week...
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10-19-04, 10:35 AM
#8
iirc its 54mm, I bought teh giant train sized wrench from mazdatrix, along with the stopper that holds it from moving. A little pb blaster and some muscle later and off it came. As stated earlier I left the nut on loosly and smacked the flywheel loose that way. Piece of cake, well sort of....
(32mm cap nut vs 19mm bolt).
Ahhh poor sing
02-02-06, 04:26 PM
#19
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ahh my good lad i once to had this same problem but overcame it with a big fight ehehhe
what you will need to remove the flywheel is as fowlows
1. 2 1/8 inch socket *
2. probally a 1/2 to 3/4 inch converter unless you already have a 3/4 wrench
3. a 5 pound sludge
4. a air compressor with at least 50 psi or around that
5. a flywheel remover
6. 2 normal strength wahsers (about 1")**
7. 2 thick strong washers (about 1")**
8. saftey glasses!!!!
9. a work rag / old towel
10. 1 medium sized rubber band (heheheh)
*some advice about where to get the socket
- I spent the better part of one day running around town and calling places trying to find the bloody thing, i went to
-ace
-napa
-checker autozone
-mechinical shops
and they all said they dont have them so i eventually found one at my local sears store for 22$ and the adapter for it thier to!
**note that these washers will in all likely hood be bent and ruined by the time you are done.
what i did was
I. take off the flywheel nut via the socket + air compressor + adaptar
A. unscrew the bolt via air gun + socket + adapter
B.now here comes the tricky part, get your flywheel remover tool out and put your washers onto the two long bolts that hold the device onto the flywheel
C. screw on your two bolts that came with the flywheel remover tool onto the flywheel and postion the tool so that the bigest longest bolt of them all comes down and pushes on the verry middle of the engine and the flywheel (thier is a long circular hole in the middle of the flywheel this is where that bolt belongs be sure that it does not catch on the flywheel).
D. (this is where i almost lost my eye because a bolt broke and went flying in our little garage bouncing off crap it barly missed my eye) first thing first before you start tighting the tool down be sure to put on your safty glasses incase of an emengency!!! grab your washers that are about 1" and put each one of your 2 normal washers onto your smaller length bolts where the meat the "structrual brace" aka about 1" thick peace of metal that all the bolts go onto (1 for each) than place your two big strong ones that ar eabout 1" into the very middle where the longest bolt goes and start to screw your longest bolt on by hand***** note the key word of hand**** to just get it hand tight and lines up for when you actually start screwing into it
E. use your air tool to start screwing in the longest bolt in the middle of the flywheel remover, go intill it stops turning or barly turns (turns about 1/8 or so mabe and not much more)
F. now use your sledge and wrap your rag around its head and use a rubber band to keep it on (so you dont hurt the flywheel)
G. wack away hitting the flywheel (dont hit to hard and dont hit the teeth expesiially!!)
H. after a few minutes if no success repeat proccess's E-G
This is how i managed to remove the flywheel!!! i promise that putting it back on is a thosand times easir and less of a hassel, I also realize that i baby steped you threw all of this in hopes of helping everyone!! not just the advnaced people but also the begginers!!! We all need to learn sometime, why not now?
what you will need to remove the flywheel is as fowlows
1. 2 1/8 inch socket *
2. probally a 1/2 to 3/4 inch converter unless you already have a 3/4 wrench
3. a 5 pound sludge
4. a air compressor with at least 50 psi or around that
5. a flywheel remover
6. 2 normal strength wahsers (about 1")**
7. 2 thick strong washers (about 1")**
8. saftey glasses!!!!
9. a work rag / old towel
10. 1 medium sized rubber band (heheheh)
*some advice about where to get the socket
- I spent the better part of one day running around town and calling places trying to find the bloody thing, i went to
-ace
-napa
-checker autozone
-mechinical shops
and they all said they dont have them so i eventually found one at my local sears store for 22$ and the adapter for it thier to!
**note that these washers will in all likely hood be bent and ruined by the time you are done.
what i did was
I. take off the flywheel nut via the socket + air compressor + adaptar
A. unscrew the bolt via air gun + socket + adapter
B.now here comes the tricky part, get your flywheel remover tool out and put your washers onto the two long bolts that hold the device onto the flywheel
C. screw on your two bolts that came with the flywheel remover tool onto the flywheel and postion the tool so that the bigest longest bolt of them all comes down and pushes on the verry middle of the engine and the flywheel (thier is a long circular hole in the middle of the flywheel this is where that bolt belongs be sure that it does not catch on the flywheel).
D. (this is where i almost lost my eye because a bolt broke and went flying in our little garage bouncing off crap it barly missed my eye) first thing first before you start tighting the tool down be sure to put on your safty glasses incase of an emengency!!! grab your washers that are about 1" and put each one of your 2 normal washers onto your smaller length bolts where the meat the "structrual brace" aka about 1" thick peace of metal that all the bolts go onto (1 for each) than place your two big strong ones that ar eabout 1" into the very middle where the longest bolt goes and start to screw your longest bolt on by hand***** note the key word of hand**** to just get it hand tight and lines up for when you actually start screwing into it
E. use your air tool to start screwing in the longest bolt in the middle of the flywheel remover, go intill it stops turning or barly turns (turns about 1/8 or so mabe and not much more)
F. now use your sledge and wrap your rag around its head and use a rubber band to keep it on (so you dont hurt the flywheel)
G. wack away hitting the flywheel (dont hit to hard and dont hit the teeth expesiially!!)
H. after a few minutes if no success repeat proccess's E-G
This is how i managed to remove the flywheel!!! i promise that putting it back on is a thosand times easir and less of a hassel, I also realize that i baby steped you threw all of this in hopes of helping everyone!! not just the advnaced people but also the begginers!!! We all need to learn sometime, why not now?
05-03-15, 02:17 PM
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noticed this was a over a decade old but once you back the nut away a good 1/4 " or so grad a 5lb sludge and give it a whack on the outter edge on the non disk surface and is should come right off. The shaft the flywheel is on is tapered, so all it needs is to be knocked loose.
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