R&R ignition lock cylinder or install a no-key push button start?
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R&R ignition lock cylinder or install a no-key push button start?
Okay, my ignition lock cylinder is being bitchy now. Getting tricky to stick the key in all the way to twist it and then removing it. I've stuck some lubricant inside it but still no luck in fixing that problem. So, herein likes a question for me: Should I just purchase a new lock cylinder kit or install a keyless push button start kit (with a hidden kill switch)? I know that the push button install, especially to rig it up to work without a key, requires a lot of delving into the wiring in the steering column, but I also know that R&R the ignition lock set is also time consuming. I know, I searched the forums on both topics.
Which would you suggest and why?
Which would you suggest and why?
Last edited by 85 FB; 04-10-06 at 04:23 PM.
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Well, I would suggest the new lock cylinder just for the sole fact of security.
As for the push button, its not really all that tough in the wiring.
http://www.frosted7.com/katrina6.html
You'd follow those wire colours ^, except instead of wiring the relay to an 'acc' power, you wire it to something with constant power.
As for the push button, its not really all that tough in the wiring.
http://www.frosted7.com/katrina6.html
You'd follow those wire colours ^, except instead of wiring the relay to an 'acc' power, you wire it to something with constant power.
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Yeah, I was thumbing through your site again but got slightly confused with wiring for keyless. I take it one should follow the same steps you provided, only instead of going into "ACC", go to "ON"?
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Okay, if I remember this all correctly- the Black wire with the yellow stripe, BY, goes to the starter, and the White wire with the Red stripe is the power source. So by putting a push button in between those two along with a relay would give you power to the starter.
For powering everything else, you would have to have a look at some wiring diagrams, but it would essentially be as simple as putting a Switch through a relay to the White/Red wire and everything that needs power in the 'acc' position.
So, it would be turn switch on (car is now in ACC), then push button (for START), let go of push button, and car is running with all your ACC circuits functional.
I can look into my Haynes later on and get you some exact wire colours if you are serious about doing this, but it will have to wait until at least tomorrow night before I get a chance, got a Biology exam to take care of first tomorrow evening.
EDIT- Heck, I've got the idea on my head on how to make it work, give me tomorrow night and I'll draw it all out and upload the schematic.
For powering everything else, you would have to have a look at some wiring diagrams, but it would essentially be as simple as putting a Switch through a relay to the White/Red wire and everything that needs power in the 'acc' position.
So, it would be turn switch on (car is now in ACC), then push button (for START), let go of push button, and car is running with all your ACC circuits functional.
I can look into my Haynes later on and get you some exact wire colours if you are serious about doing this, but it will have to wait until at least tomorrow night before I get a chance, got a Biology exam to take care of first tomorrow evening.
EDIT- Heck, I've got the idea on my head on how to make it work, give me tomorrow night and I'll draw it all out and upload the schematic.
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That'd be great, thanks. I've been musing over my Haynes manual's wiring diagram and was basically figuring, if I wanted to, 2 toggle switches and a push button. I *think* two toggles because now I can't remember if it's "click, click, start" on my cylinder, or just "click, start". Diagram shows ACC, ON, START (click, click, start). So, tomorrow morning when I go out again, I'll see how it goes. But anyways, figured a strong power source for the push button to lead up to the starter, and two power sources for the two toggle switches, one to go to the wire to ACC, the other switch to lead up to the ON. I think that might work, but this would be the first time I would experiment with something like this.
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Okay, so I took a look into the Haynes diagrams, and this is the easiest method I could come up with.
WR - White/Red -> Power
B/W- Black/White -> Ignition
L- Blue -> Accessory
BY(large)- Black/Yellow -> Starter
BY(small)- Black/Yellow ->Ignition
(There are 2 black/yellow wires, the larger one is the starter)
These wire colours correspond to the colour they are underneath the dash, and NOT on the ignition cylinder itself, follow the wires under your dash until you see it plug into a different harness. The colours they change to are what you need.
**There are 2 wires that attach to the ignition cylinder that I could not locate in the Haynes diagrams, these are:
B/R - Black/Red
and
B- Black
If anyone knows what these two are for, please chime in. They are smaller wires, and I'm not sure how important they are or what their function is. I tried prodding around with a multimeter and couldn't come to any conclusion as to wether they are even used at all.
Hope this helps you out.
WR - White/Red -> Power
B/W- Black/White -> Ignition
L- Blue -> Accessory
BY(large)- Black/Yellow -> Starter
BY(small)- Black/Yellow ->Ignition
(There are 2 black/yellow wires, the larger one is the starter)
These wire colours correspond to the colour they are underneath the dash, and NOT on the ignition cylinder itself, follow the wires under your dash until you see it plug into a different harness. The colours they change to are what you need.
**There are 2 wires that attach to the ignition cylinder that I could not locate in the Haynes diagrams, these are:
B/R - Black/Red
and
B- Black
If anyone knows what these two are for, please chime in. They are smaller wires, and I'm not sure how important they are or what their function is. I tried prodding around with a multimeter and couldn't come to any conclusion as to wether they are even used at all.
Hope this helps you out.
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[EDIT] oops, maybe I should check the dates before I post, lol
That's how I've always wired them and it seems right. You might check out the thread, this guy is doing the same thing also. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/key-stuck-843218/
84-85 Ignition switch wire colors... are, at least sometimes, wrong in Factory diagram. Wires coming from the switch are....
Blue wire is out to ACC
Cigar lighter, remote mirrors, power antenna and audio.
Black/yellow is out to Ign 1
alternator, ignition, meters and warning lights, turn, hazzard, back up lights, power windows, cruise control...everything else but lights and Ign 2.
Black/white wire is out to Ign 2
AC, power steering, front and rear wiper and washer motors and rear defroster.
Black/red wire is out to starter
White/red is 12V in from main fusible link
If you look closely at the terminals where the wires are soldered to the back of the switch there are tiny letters labeling each one. You could use three toggles. One for Acc, one for Ign1 and one for Ign 2. Then a push button for the starter. You're going to want a heavy duty toggle to handle the power load.
Blue wire is out to ACC
Cigar lighter, remote mirrors, power antenna and audio.
Black/yellow is out to Ign 1
alternator, ignition, meters and warning lights, turn, hazzard, back up lights, power windows, cruise control...everything else but lights and Ign 2.
Black/white wire is out to Ign 2
AC, power steering, front and rear wiper and washer motors and rear defroster.
Black/red wire is out to starter
White/red is 12V in from main fusible link
If you look closely at the terminals where the wires are soldered to the back of the switch there are tiny letters labeling each one. You could use three toggles. One for Acc, one for Ign1 and one for Ign 2. Then a push button for the starter. You're going to want a heavy duty toggle to handle the power load.
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I've entertained thoughts about doing this, too. One thing you'll lose aside from the security aspect (which you mentioned you would resolve with a kill switch), is steering wheel locking. This can be a concern if the car needs to be towed -- not a frequent issue, but something to keep in mind.
As for the kill switch -- consider putting it in the fuel pump circuit. That way the thief will be able to crank it, but it won't run for long. It'll make him think the car is defective -- and who wants to steal a car that doesn't run? This fuel starvation strategy is used in some OEM security systems.
As for the kill switch -- consider putting it in the fuel pump circuit. That way the thief will be able to crank it, but it won't run for long. It'll make him think the car is defective -- and who wants to steal a car that doesn't run? This fuel starvation strategy is used in some OEM security systems.
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Guys,
This is a 3 year old thread.
The member bumped it up for someone that was looking to put in a starter button.
There is no need to answer the 3 year old question anymore. :-)
As far as using a starter button. I would not use one in my car as it is just a poor way of fixing the issue and takes away from the security of the Automobile.
Starter buttons are ok in track cars but not your daily driver.
This is a 3 year old thread.
The member bumped it up for someone that was looking to put in a starter button.
There is no need to answer the 3 year old question anymore. :-)
As far as using a starter button. I would not use one in my car as it is just a poor way of fixing the issue and takes away from the security of the Automobile.
Starter buttons are ok in track cars but not your daily driver.
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I, too, being the originator of this thread, wondered why people didn't notice the year stamp.
And, I never installed a starter button. I still have the stock lock cylinder and it hasn't given me problems since. Was my door lock cylinder that was twisting my key up, but after installing a power door lock kit, problem solved on both accounts.
And, I never installed a starter button. I still have the stock lock cylinder and it hasn't given me problems since. Was my door lock cylinder that was twisting my key up, but after installing a power door lock kit, problem solved on both accounts.
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I, too, being the originator of this thread, wondered why people didn't notice the year stamp.
And, I never installed a starter button. I still have the stock lock cylinder and it hasn't given me problems since. Was my door lock cylinder that was twisting my key up, but after installing a power door lock kit, problem solved on both accounts.
And, I never installed a starter button. I still have the stock lock cylinder and it hasn't given me problems since. Was my door lock cylinder that was twisting my key up, but after installing a power door lock kit, problem solved on both accounts.
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Oh, I saw that it was bumped for a friend. I was merely refering to others posting in response and not taking notice. *L*
Good to go on you being able to solve the problems, glad to see this thread helped.
Good to go on you being able to solve the problems, glad to see this thread helped.
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Black and red cable in the ignition harness
Hi I'm new here, about the ignition someone can tell me for what reason is the black and red cable?
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