OIL which brands burn good and which don't?
#177
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: parksville B.C.
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i always enjoy these debates personally i stick with dyno oil its what ive always used and why change what works after all it aint broke and having to change it a little more often is fine by me however i would like to eliminate the omp and run premix though i imagine that has a tendancy to gum up the filter quite a bit faster than normal
#178
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
Idemitsu has a LOT of molybdenum (like 7x as much as Castrol GTX) and very good amounts of zinc and phosphorous, all of which are excellent anti-wear additives that the rotary likes. Since we're smearing oil on the side plates. It's just real expensive. Valvoline VR-1 50 weight caught my eye, gonna try that next.
Since n/a rotaries are spun up to higher rpms than the typical forced induction beer keg, the oil is sheared a lot more and breaks down quicker. Plus we use it for cooling so much I prefer to change the dinosaur oil @ 3000miles rather than doing the synthetic @ 10,000 miles. But when I ran Royal Purple my engine oil temps did go down by 10*F no ****.
Since n/a rotaries are spun up to higher rpms than the typical forced induction beer keg, the oil is sheared a lot more and breaks down quicker. Plus we use it for cooling so much I prefer to change the dinosaur oil @ 3000miles rather than doing the synthetic @ 10,000 miles. But when I ran Royal Purple my engine oil temps did go down by 10*F no ****.
#179
FB+FC=F-ME
Ive run Idemitsu in my S5 TII engine since I installed it in 02' (after break-in of course).
Changed every 3-4K miles.
No problems over the last 50K miles,great compression,starts right up everytime......good stuff.
Changed every 3-4K miles.
No problems over the last 50K miles,great compression,starts right up everytime......good stuff.
#183
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
valvoline??? Once I cut open a container to use as a funnel for the next oil change. There was sediment at the bottom. Never again!!!
I use castrol. $4.80 a quart.....can you believe that ****!!??
I use castrol. $4.80 a quart.....can you believe that ****!!??
#185
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: sheboygan wisconsin
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im looking to change all of my fluids to royal purple (engine,trans,lsd) in my 84. Any opinions on royal purple besides the email from a rotary driving employee? Would it be a good idea to clean everything out once drained with a foam of sorts?
#186
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
I don't recommend using Royal Purple in the transmission. It is too slippery and is not specifically a GL-4 brass synchro oil. People have reported that their trans gets grindy after using Royal Purple in a trans that calls for GL-4. Redline has a GL-4 trans oil called MT-90 that I use instead. Or you can go cheap with Sta-Lube.
I really liked RP in the engine, like I said earlier it reduced oil temps by 10*F right off the bat.
The general consensus is Royal Purple costs much more than the benefit you're getting. You're paying for their advertising they do all over the place. Kinda like Patron Tequila, it's good, but there is better for the price and you're paying for their racecar funding.
Just do a good flush of the oil pan, trans and diff by pouring some of the new fluid in there with the drainplug in, then pull the plug and drain what was on the bottom of the pan/case.
I really liked RP in the engine, like I said earlier it reduced oil temps by 10*F right off the bat.
The general consensus is Royal Purple costs much more than the benefit you're getting. You're paying for their advertising they do all over the place. Kinda like Patron Tequila, it's good, but there is better for the price and you're paying for their racecar funding.
Just do a good flush of the oil pan, trans and diff by pouring some of the new fluid in there with the drainplug in, then pull the plug and drain what was on the bottom of the pan/case.
#187
Seems to me like the community as a whole is split 50/50 synth/dino oil and nobody can agree on which brands are good, and which are bad. I was thinking About running Amsoil 10w-40 in my '83 GSL. I came to this conclusion based off of the chart included in our owners' manual, and the fact that I'll only be driving the car whenever there isn't snow on the ground (I live in MN). I need an oil that can cover a large temperature range.
My main question is whether or not it is a good idea to run synthetic oil. I've read that switching to synth oil would cause some headaches considering it has the original engine and 159k miles. I'm not sure if prior owners used synthetics or mineral oils.
Anybody care to put their .02 in?
Here is the chart I referred to earlier.
My main question is whether or not it is a good idea to run synthetic oil. I've read that switching to synth oil would cause some headaches considering it has the original engine and 159k miles. I'm not sure if prior owners used synthetics or mineral oils.
Anybody care to put their .02 in?
Here is the chart I referred to earlier.
#189
life's a drag*)
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: greenville,sc
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone ever tried valvoline 30w racing oil non syn? Its what I run in my old v8 cars because its high in zinc and has additives to help friction against flat tappet cams, which I would think could also help the seals and crome on the rotor housings. I've thought about trying it but didn't know if it would hurt anything or not?
#190
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
I am currently using Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50 non synthetic in my 13b streetport. It won't hurt anything. I commented on it earlier on this thread. It seems to maintain oil pressure at higher rpms better than Castrol GTX... and keeps its viscosity as good or better than Castrol GTX.
#191
RE Suikoayanajim
Guys, I live in a Hot weather area 35C~47C, Middle East, but it gets cold in the winter 27C~19C and I used Motul 15w50, the car smokes in cold start the rpm plays up n down for a bit then the smoke stops! I am think of getting RE Amemiya 10w40 SL, since I am an RE Amemiya freak
What do you guys think?
and how much of liters do I need to fill the engine up?
Thanks
What do you guys think?
and how much of liters do I need to fill the engine up?
Thanks
#194
Full Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Synthetic oil?
Go to MAZDATRIX.COM website and read under section OIL,LUBES, ETC. It's the only synthetic oil specifically formulated for Rotary engines. Or call them and pick their brain, they've been working on Rotary engines for over 30 years.👍
#196
ok this is funny everyone should learn why synthetics are better than conventional oil in the fist place and how they are made. this will clear up all the arguments period.SYNTHETIC DONE.
my question is when i worked on a championship race car team, and i am trying to understand why our mobile 1 said for race use only do not use on the street. i think it has more heavy metals that might effect emissions.
see this web page.
The technology of synthetic oil. How is synthetic oil made?
my question is when i worked on a championship race car team, and i am trying to understand why our mobile 1 said for race use only do not use on the street. i think it has more heavy metals that might effect emissions.
see this web page.
The technology of synthetic oil. How is synthetic oil made?
#197
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
iTrader: (3)
i always enjoy these debates personally i stick with dyno oil its what ive always used and why change what works after all it aint broke and having to change it a little more often is fine by me however i would like to eliminate the omp and run premix though i imagine that has a tendancy to gum up the filter quite a bit faster than normal
Pre-mix won't gum up fuel filters any more than gasoline will. Its in suspension with the gasoline.
#198
79 w 13B4port
iTrader: (5)
Idemitsu Racing Rotary Fuel Lube (Premix) - Synthetic Blend
Inherently with many rotary engines, the entirety of the rotor and housing are not being sufficiently lubricated, resulting in premature wear or damage. In order to increase lubrication within the engine, Idemitsu developed Idemitsu Rotary Premix. At 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel, it is a cost effective way lubricate more of your engine and prevent premature catastrophic damage.
A special blend of base oils reduces deposits and subsequent exhaust port clogging. As a result, your rotary will maintain the power at which it was designed. Special detergent/dispersant additives keep your fuel injectors clean to reduce maintenance. Provides additional lubrication for apex and side seals to increase seal life and increase efficiency of engine. Special additives allow for better sealing of the chamber, creating greater efficiency and more power.
Note! Do NOT use with ethanol or ethanol based fuels!
#199
Junior Member
This may sounds funny but, Can anyone tell me why I get more smoke on cold start after a week of not running the engine, than if I start it daily? Im interested in understanding what is happening to cause it to smoke more after not driving it for a while compared to daily. It stops smoking after about 10-15 seconds. Its an FD. TIA.