Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Hello there everyone,

I've taken the time to put together some diagrams on how to strip down a Nikki carb, and I have scanned them all in. Hopefully this will make stripping down the Nikki a little easier for people who are wanting to simplify. Rx7Carl, if you could veryify that what I have done is correct and fix any errors you see, it would be EXTREMELY APPRECIATED. Also, if you, Sterling, or anyone else could answer a few questions that I have I think we could add this thread to the archives, and eliminate a lot of repetitive questions.

I am attempting to strip this carburetor to its absolute bare minimum. Here is what I am going for on the rebuild:

1) Remove ALL emissions equipment
2) Switch to premix instead of OMP
3) Remove the choke
4) Switch to mechanical secondaries

I will attach my diagrams for the air horn, main body, and throttle body. I will post questions for each section of the carburetor. The red items are what will be removed from the carburetor. The green items are what will be replaced and/or reinstalled on the carburetor. Thanks in advance to all of you Nikki masters who help by answering all of my questions. On to the diagrams!

Jamie
"Glazedham42"

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

AIR HORN





QUESTIONS

#10) Can this air vent solenoid be removed and plugged with a standard size brass fitting?

#30, 31, 32) What does all of the "fast idle" stuff do? Can the linkage be removed? Is it somehow related to the choke? What happens if I take all this fast idle stuff off?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

MAIN BODY





QUESTIONS

#104, 106) Does this bracket do anything anymore? Can I take it off or will I need it for the throttle cable?

#89) Can I remove the richer solenoid valve and plug it with a standard sized brass fitting?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

THROTTLE BODY



QUESTIONS

-Do I need to leave on all of the unused linkage arms? Can they be replaced with a spacer of some kind?

#117-125) Does the OMP linkage need to be put back on for any reason if I will be using premix fuel? Can I just take it all off?

Kentetsu

Great idea man, and a very nice layout you have started. Hopefully we can get the Pros to come in and verify all of this and answer your questions. Keep up the great work man!

sa22see

Thanks man I was looking to try something like this before but I didn't have the Idea on what to plug or not.hopefully some one can verify the diagrams.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

you can plug the holes created by the alt compensator and mech secondarys with jb weld use the quick weld stuff

also keep the fast idel intact it can still be contolled by the choke lever for morning starts you can take the butterfly flap off tho

also you may want to keep number 10 on the airhorn cant rember if its important not 100% sure

this will help on what one looks like when stripped i did this months ago and sold it

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the pictures. Those should be extremely helpful to myself and everyone else. I sent Carl a pm so hopefully he will pop in this thread soon, and tell us if everything I've done is correct or not. Also, maybe he'll answer some of the questions that have yet to be answered...

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

There are more pictures here...

http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html

ray green

iTrader: (14)

blwfly, I see you went with a single pulley on the alternator and water pump, so there isn't any problem with this set up slipping on the pump or alt? I'd like to go with this set up but the one time I tried it I was also having this weird problem with my temp guage wandering up, so I put the air pump back in so I didn't have to think about the water pump slipping. (Last weekend I modded the air pump, or I should say gutted it, makes a pretty good pulley once you get all those flapper things out of there).

Another question for Jamie and others who have tried it, when you strip a carb down like that, what are the consequences? What, specifically, are the improvements in performance? Sure it's "cleaner" looking, but what about driveability, gas mileage and smog, in that order?

I don't mean the "save the earth" kind of smog, I know you guys aren't too worried about that, but what about the "my car smells like the pits at Indy" kind of smog. I know when I drive without the cats it runs better but there is a lot more smog smell than when I'm using them and I get a yellowish brown stain on the bumper over the exhaust pipe. Does stipping down the Nikki like this make the smog worse?

Thanks!

Ray

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

in new zealand our rx7's came with no smog equipment so duno if it affects milleage

ray green
its a gm alt and its not exsactly lined up with the other pullys lol so it tends to chew my belts somthing that needs adjustment

i havnt had any slippage noise's at all and never seem to bother the water pump's function

Rx7carl

Whew Jamie lotsa typing for me tonight.

10- Its a metric thread. You can block it with the proper plug. I make mine from a bolt thats cut down to length to fit and re-uses the stock crush washer. But you have to remove the plunger. Its not easy. I cut out the plastic part and then the rod part falls out. In reality you could probably remove the solenoid, remove the spring and then the solenoid wont shut if it stays disconnected. Im just a bit on the **** retentive side sometimes though.

30-31-32- Keep the fast idle as was mentioned. We remove the choke on the sterling carbs but retain the fast idle for cold starts, its necessary. You can remove the choke plate, shaft and vacuum junk associated. Keep the stuff that is still white in your first shaded pic.


Yea you can remove the alt comp and plug the holes.

item 105- ditch that if you dont have AC
99, 100, 101- ditch it

On the right side of the main body pic. Get rid of it and plug the vac sec port. I tap the hole and plug it with a metric screw.

89-Keep the richer solenoid and leave it disconnected.

106 ditch. Make sure you remove the pivot link for the hot start assist or it WILL bind on the intake since it'll hang down. Alternatively you could just tie it up out of the way to the hole previously occupied by item 106.

104 is the main throttle bracket. Kinda hard to get rid of that.

110- GOne

Anything thats unused can go. Use the spacers they rode on as spacers to keep everything aligned.

117-125- If your premixing I guess you can leave it off. Only thing youll lose is the physical stop for the primaries (inner end of 125). But ive seen enough of them bent from overzealous driving (assumption) to know they arent bulletproof lol.

I've always had problem with a single waterpump pulley unless I ran an electric fan. Its too much load on the system. If you tighten it up enough to stop the hi RPM slippage (above 4k), your overloading the skinny front e-shaft extension and will prematurely wear out the front main bearing.

Rx7carl

Nice pics, very descrpitive.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Jamie!! Keeping notes for what to pull off my Sterling-fied NOS carb after I stoopidly asked Carl NOT to remove extraneous bits
Stu Aull
80GS
w Sterlng Carb (still sitting on desk)

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Carl = My Hero Thanks for the help! You just saved me about a month of trial and error, and probably several trips to the junkyard from stuff I would've screwed up. Haha. I'll post up some pictures of the Nikki stripped down and rebuilt once I get it finished up.

And last but not least....

JON ARCHIVE THIS THREAD!!!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Done, done and done.

Before I got to Carl's post I was thinking "yeah, that looks almost perfect"

Now for me to get my hands on another Nikki for the rest of the rebuild tutorial now that all the "junk" parts have been identified.

Jon