Wolf 3D Discuss the Wolf 3D Engine Management System

Wolf 3D Up and running, but...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-03-06, 01:07 PM
  #1  
HEAVY METAL THUNDER

Thread Starter
 
rotary emotions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Up and running, but...

I finally have my engine running. It took a lot of effort, but now it is doing ok. But it runs EXTREMELY rich. These are the specs:
S5 TII engine into former 12A chassis (1982). Emissioncontrols removed, otherwise stock engine. Exhaust is selfbuild from 70mm pipe (somewhere between 2 1/2 and 3 inch) with a stock muffler for now, will be redone in the future.
The Wolf is a 3D V3.1, and I used the maps from Michael Smith (posted overhere before) for a start.
Right now the cold start and post start enrichement are off (so " 0 MS ") and the engine starts very easy, doesn't stall, which doesn't seem right to me. Idle is a bit unsteady at 950-1000rpm, but calms down when warmed up. I know 1000rpm is a bit fast idling, but it shouldn't be too bad. The engine responses reasonably well to the throttle, not perfect, but not bad either.
The OXY bar is always at it's top line, and when looking at the OXY bar it's always at maximum (min-max logging states 99%). When viewing the nearest map-point when running, the OXY level will always state "9" (max).
I tried to play around with injector staging, but now have it at "0" and nothing seems to change. I modified some points to see what happens, but I must go down extremely to get the OXY readings to go leaner.
Maybe someone has mappings for a stock S5 to compare too?
Or should I look elswhere? The injectors don't seem to leak, since hot-starts are faultless. Maybe fuel pressure is too high? I'm running an SX fuel pump (the really big one) and just the stock FPR (the welded on one). Can this make the pressure at the rail so much bigger? Or could it be that the engine burns too much oil?
I'm not really anxious to modify the maps too much, wouldn't like to lean out and blow up the engine...
Old 07-04-06, 08:26 AM
  #2  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
Michael Smith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Queensland Australia
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Talking

Hi rotary emotions,
What type of O2 are you running? Could it be a old stuffed one? Could the earth be faulty to the exhaust? Also if your fuel pressure is above 45PSI while pressuried and not running, it will run Rich You should only use one regulator. My fuel system was stock except that you need to run a line directly from the manifold below the butterfly to the regulator on the stock engine if you remove the pollution gear. This is because a soleniod near the oil filler controls fuel pressure at idle.
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. on the O2 on my car it ran about 1/3 on cruise and about 3/4 at wot to about 4500 and then got a little richer as the revs pickedup. Dynotuned with wideband.
Old 07-04-06, 09:53 AM
  #3  
HEAVY METAL THUNDER

Thread Starter
 
rotary emotions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'm using the one that came with my J-spec engine, in the downpipe. It's a stock Mazda one. I know it could be inaccurate, or even completely wrong. But considering the smell and the fact it will start from cold (at the moment cold is relative: we have 34°C outside) without cold start and post start enrichement, it seems to run very rich indeed.
I have a line from the TB (one of the many under the butterflies) to the regulator, but I'm not too sure if it's doing the task good.
Old 07-05-06, 02:47 AM
  #4  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
Michael Smith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Queensland Australia
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rotary emotions
I'm using the one that came with my J-spec engine, in the downpipe. It's a stock Mazda one. I know it could be inaccurate, or even completely wrong. But considering the smell and the fact it will start from cold (at the moment cold is relative: we have 34°C outside) without cold start and post start enrichement, it seems to run very rich indeed.
I have a line from the TB (one of the many under the butterflies) to the regulator, but I'm not too sure if it's doing the task good.

You have to make sure it is below the butterflys because if it wasn't you would have a rich running engine. At idle I expect about 35psi fuel pressure because the manifold is in vacuum. If you where running 45 Psi instead because you where actually infront of the throttle body like one of the 3 that come out in the front side are actually from inside between the 2 sets of throttle butterflies. In this case it would run REALLY rich until boost then it would work as tuned and become correctly tuned. My guess is that you have the wrong vacuum point. You really need to measure your fuel pressure to prove that the regulator is working the way it should.
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. a Rotary at idle, likes to be at 13.2 - 13.5 to idle smoothly thats why it is fitted with a air pump to make it up to 14.7 by adding extra air for the cat to work with.
Old 07-05-06, 08:59 AM
  #5  
HEAVY METAL THUNDER

Thread Starter
 
rotary emotions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think you could be right there Michael, thanks! I'll have a closer look at the vacuum line. I guess I might have picked the wrong one there. I'm not that familiar with FC engines, as I have always enjoyed my Mikuni carbed 12A before. To which point do I connect the vacuum/boost line line then? Or should I drill/tap a new one?
Old 07-06-06, 09:49 PM
  #6  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
Michael Smith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Queensland Australia
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You know on the emission gear(inlet manifold above the turbo) that I have blanked off is a vaccum port I tapped the blanking plate and bolted it over where the emission gear used to go. I used this point for the MAP sensor,reguator, and boost guage. It has a good flow rate too. The other plus is that you only need to drill and tap the plate not the manifold.

I am a NA 12A 6port man myself thats where I cut my teeth.
Cheers
Michael Smith
Old 07-07-06, 06:22 AM
  #7  
HEAVY METAL THUNDER

Thread Starter
 
rotary emotions's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I thought about this plate too. Seems I have work to do
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
C. Ludwig
Single Turbo RX-7's
49
01-30-19 06:31 AM
Rotospectre
New Member RX-7 Technical
3
03-28-18 03:33 PM
The Shaolin
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
9
09-14-15 07:50 PM



Quick Reply: Wolf 3D Up and running, but...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:09 AM.