Wolf 3D S5 TII Starts, doesn't run on V3.1
#1
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S5 TII Starts, doesn't run on V3.1
After months of not doing anything I started working on my car (S2 with S5 engine) again. I had the engine running for a while, but it didn't cool enough with the E-fan, so I had to turn it off. When re-doing the fan (locating it closer to the rad should help) I tried to start it again, but it didn't work? The engine starts a bit difficult, but after a few moments (either seconds or minutes, depending my luck) it dies. Don't know why at all. I used the maps for 13BT from the Wolf site, aswell as the maps from Michael Smith, but it seems not to make a difference to my problem. It keeps starting hard, and then dies.
I must say I removed emission controls and BAC etc. So there's no cold start system on the TB. Maybe I should re-fit those???
I must say I removed emission controls and BAC etc. So there's no cold start system on the TB. Maybe I should re-fit those???
#2
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rotary emotions, The map I put up was on a series 4 with no cold starting equipment fitted, and stock everything else. I had the idle speed setup and it idled well and started well. Make sure that your EFI pump is running. I drove that car for years and it only stopped when I turned it off after dropping a apex seal. Even then it would start on 1 rotor without trouble. Next time your go to start you engine check your plugs first and see that they are dry. If they are then losen off the intercooler to turbo pipe and place 1 cap (from the fuel can) of fuel into the turbo compressor. Do up the pipe and crank. If it starts quickly you have a fuel feed problem add 2 stroke oil to your fuel to free up the injectors if they have been sitting for a while. I have seen injectors stick when a engine gets hot. 2 stroke keeps them going when hot. Do you have the AFM connected? I only used the internal MAP sensor. I also had a 3 inch exhaust.
Regards
Michael Smith
Regards
Michael Smith
#3
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if you say the problem occurs when it is hot it sounds like it may be fuel pressure related.
do you have the surge tank in the boot/under the car? or in the engine bay?
like michael suggested check that the pumps are working while the engine runs.
also how wide open is the throttle at idle position? if it isn't setup in the idle circuit position it will make the cranking start harder
do you have the surge tank in the boot/under the car? or in the engine bay?
like michael suggested check that the pumps are working while the engine runs.
also how wide open is the throttle at idle position? if it isn't setup in the idle circuit position it will make the cranking start harder
#4
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The car seems to get fuel, since plugs get wet if I start it too often... Of course it might be a injector problem, not sure about that. The pumps wok fine, but the pre-pump *might* be low capacity. It's just a stock pump, all it does is pumping fuel to the antisurgetank (btw: it's located near the rear axle, outside of the car, a common place on first gens). I know a better lift-pump will be needed for serious work, but for stationary tuning it shouldn't be too bad. Problem is that I can't measure the high pressure side, in other words the pressure on the rails. I use a high pressure (SX) pump, but stock regulator (for now).
As for throtlle at idle: just what do you mean? I'm not really sure what you mean. Maybe you can explain what I should check? Maybe the throttle is to wide open, not sure.
As for throtlle at idle: just what do you mean? I'm not really sure what you mean. Maybe you can explain what I should check? Maybe the throttle is to wide open, not sure.
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