nyt

iTrader: (1)

40 = 0psi.
10.5 at 10psi and up is a tad rich

i generally go for 12.5:1 when boost starts down to like 11.3 at 10psi and 10.8-11:1 at 15psi and up

nyt

iTrader: (1)

well i just wrote up a reply and then accidentally closed the window. ill try to remember everything i said...


first i wouldnt recommend bringing in the secondary injectors until you hit boost. if they fire before that you may get a rough transition, or just kill your fuel economy. lots of time if you fire them before boost, your secondary butterflies on the throttle body wont even be open yet...

also how much boost do you plan to run? load bar 100 is supposed to be the maximum amount.

also, i ran 10.8-11.0:1 at 20psi. if you wanna stay on the safe side take it down to 10.8.. dont really see a need to go to 10.5

your fuel map does need work. you cant just put one value in across the entire load band... the engine will need more fuel as torque peaks and then you can take some off as you reach higher revs.

generally when im tuning i start rich, and bring down the entire load band by itself so that the LEANEST point is exactly where i want it to be, then i take out more fuel from the rich spots so that its even

im looking for a jpg of a datalog i did.. cant find em tho, if i do ill post it

nyt

iTrader: (1)

oh also, when i drive around the street.. its generally WAYYY lean in vacuum.. like even past 14:1.... i generally only sway to the rich side of stoich once i hit boost =]

gas prices are high enough as it is=] trying to conserve =]

signofinfinity

hmmm but if you are runnin lean, on vacuum, wont your pickup be lousy up to say 3000 rpm?
i am runnin lean too till about 3000 and load 38.... but i do feel a slight hesitation at times..

signofinfinity

ps, my ignition table is set with 100load at 15psi. At 18psi I wouldnt run 14deg advance... perhaps 12 or 10.....nyt, correct me is am wrong

RLC

Hi Jeramy and others.
I like the load calc you came up after talking with me.
Thats the way I do it. The gas out here is crap so I
run em' rich for safety.
I just got in from rescueing a fellow with a Cosmo 13B
in his FD. Fuel pumps lost power, I am running 2 for a
redundant system. If one goes out you have a back up!
If you do this you must run a special harness. I may make
up a kit or a parts list for every one.
Jeramy when are you coming to get your HC. I want to see
the new single!
I will be in St. Louis late this month for a dyno day and tune
session.
Thanks Again,
Chris Greene

Michael Smith

Nyt my recommendation on AFR was based on 7psi as 100% in which case for 15-18 psi it would be lean as you pointed out. As far as advance is concerned I run 13 deg at 15 psi and I was told that it was ok, I was also told that around 10 is good enough as the power gain from 10 to 13 degrees is minimal and only move your engine closer to detonation.

Who knows my engine doesn't knock at 13 on the fuel I use.
Michael Smith

nyt

iTrader: (1)

i dont have any problems with pickups. transient sensor accel enrichment is there for that so when you step on the gas it gives it extra fuel. i see a lot of people have this disabled.

nyt

iTrader: (1)

heres a log of just cruising around... going up and down some hills and just on the highway in 5th gear

signofinfinity

for what boost setup? if thats for 15psi... its waaaaaaaaaaaay conservative. also there is no advance as rpm increases....

general rule, as load inc ign dec ... which you have, but, as rpm inc, ign must inc... which you dont...

my 02c

George

Michael Smith

Hi again RotorMotor2 can you like replay what happened. Like from the first run of the day until it popped. Do you have any data from that day. Temp, boost pressure road conditions ,rpm and gear it was in when it failed. I now a lot of guys use a lot of advance but if you are tuning you engine to run well even 5 degrees less than optimum it will still run great. Higher Advance around idle and light load is ok too. But above N/A ie under any boost always be conservative untill you have it on a dyno fitted with a knock detector/AFR meter . Also if your engine is running rich it is a little more forgiving to over advanced timing. I would personally look at the CAS and base timing. Your fuel should be good. The boost controller not working could also be a factor. I always tune mine on the waste pressure alone first. Then once done you can use the boost controller. MY guess is a combination of both advance spark and higher boost pressure. Have you pulled down the motor yet any clues? Who is building you engine? Do thay have a side seal grinder? or do they use a flat file GGGRRRR another pet hate.

Cheers
Michael Smith

Michael Smith

Ok I have had a good look at the whole thread. I will put my money on the boost controller not set up correctly with the hoses or the wastegate isn't working. Before you run your next engine make sure that the engine timing in the Wolf is the same as the timing light indicates. Run 0 degrees Trailing and leading (0 split)and check with a timing light. Now don't cheat check both Leading and trailing. Now add your split and check both again this will ensure that you have your timing correct and leading and trailing firing on the right plug hole. I would then get the wastegate and pump up your compressor to 15 psi and place it into the tube going to the diaphram and make sure as you squeeze the blower trigger the Wastegate opens if it does then make sure that you set your boost controller in safe mode(thats what I call it) that is with tube going from the manifold to the wastegate. Then cut it and place a T piece to your soleniod maybe via a small jet to limit over boost if the valve sticks open. The problem with this setup is that the Soleniod is on and open most of the time until boost comes on to the preset point as it reaches this point the valve closes opening the wastegate. (this is how feedback boost controller work) Now the problem is that the Wolf uses Pulse Width Modulation to simulate a Jet with a variable opening and if it sticks in the open position then it will OVERBOOST without a doubt. Now any setup can fail what you need to work out is which way will it fail and will it leave you with OVERBOOST or Low Boost. My preference is Low Boost or No boost as you will not have a collection of blowen engines...like most of us have

Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. I would still run less advance above 2500 rpm

Michael Smith

This is what I mean a fail safe boost control the maximum boost is set but the size of the Jet. Now this system has creep but you will not over boost. The second has No Creep but over boost is very possible. my 2C
Cheers
Michael Smith

GORacing

Hi Jeremy,
Sorry been out of touch, just came back to see how all was going... Sorry to read that your engine siezed, need to do an autopsy and find out why before you start running in circles and altering things...


A couple quick catch ups, (Thread - My Timing - post#36), the timing map... 1st, it does not even follow the basic timing curve strategies... as George pointed out there is no increase in advancement for increases in RPM, also, there is entirely too much advance under 1000 RPM in all loads, and the lower load ranges (everything below boost) need to have the max amount of advance (around 35-45* is the factory stock range and a good starting point, remember rotaries have weak torque so they need all the help they can get), starting at 0% to around 21% and then decrease as we move up in load to just before boost to were the 20* they have is good (20-25* at 100% for a N/A engine which is around the 50% for a turbo map, is a good safe area to be when starting out)... this ign map, as it is, would make your engine be an absolute dog at anything under 50% load and 3500 RPM, had your engine not ate itself (for reasons not yet known), you would have probably found gas milage down and city buses out pulling you from traffic lights... Go take a look at the map George posted (fuel/ignition map for wolf3dv4 post #4, - Alex Gozo F&G.wmf), this ign map is at least in the ball park considering the quality of gas he has to deal with...

Next, the Wolf Trigger1 adjustment, you stated (Thread - Zeroing the wolf - # 54), that when you set the map and tried setting the Trigger1, the best you came up with a 5* error in the split, then a couple posts later (Thread - Zeroing the wolf - # 58), you had to change your Input Trigger polarity from rising edge (the prefered setting according to the installation manual section 3.2), to falling edge, now the manual (wolf installation manual section 3.2.1), suggest that timing problems will occur if the sensor is not wired correctly (reversed), now I would have to believe that an incorrect polarity setting may also cause unexpected timing changes??? George and Michael both use rising edge...One last item here, in one post (Thread - Zeroing the wolf - # 58), you mentioned two folders with an ignition trigger polarity setting, I found one in Configuration-Sensor setup-Trigger1 but I have not found the second one...

Your post (Thread - Zeroing the wolf - # 57), troubles me about your understanding of how the coils are fired or if you are seeing some type of strange problems happening with your system... The trailing coils do not fire a wasted spark, only the leading does and both outputs of the leading coil fire at the same time... also, the wolf uses the CAS to determine when the pump is turned on, it is a safety issue such as in the event of an accident, the ecu shuts off the pump when the engine has stopped, so if you are triggering the CAS while you are working on it you may be tricking the ecu into powering up the pump... I hope this is what you are seeing and not some improper wiring issue...

Now the only other item I would question is your choice of a very low trigger voltage level, if your wiring is not shielded correctly (not at all or the shielding is grounded at both ends), it is quit possible that the ecu may be picking up false signals from other electrical wires in the harness... you stated this is the 6th engine that has failed, how many engine failures since you installed this harness for the wolf?

I hope I gave you some ideas to work with... more later if needed

Gregg