just to clear things up for me i was told 2 different things and i am getting all these different readings, i was told to use the L1 plug and also the T1 plug for my timing light, the one who told me to use the L1 plug said that factory notch is like at 20 degrees or something and told me that the factory trailing split should be at 15 and then my whole timing map should be at -5 and to check that way because the T1 cannot read the other way (retarded or advance i forgot) and the person who said to use the T1 has a map with trailing split set to 10 so what is right?

F*** i timed with the start timing set at 10.9..i was sure it was zero!! da**

so,the way i do it iswith the last map i posted (0deg stat timing :P) i attach the strobe to the L1. Time notch and Needle perfect ...i still need to get the right figure off the car, and then check the T1. I set the split to 0, it should fire exactly on the needle, and set to 20 split it should line up with the trailing mark....

now, i think after timing i can set the offset to 5, because till now the engine wont run with offset 5 but 3....beats me!!

there are 2 notches, one at -5 and one at -20.

if you set your leading to fire at -5, you line it up with the -5 notch.

incorrect on the timing part.

the marks at -5 and -20

so if you have your leading lined up at -5 and want to make sure your trailing are firing at -20 what you do is:

set your main timing to -5. line up your leading with the -5 mark

if you want to make sure your trailing is firing at the right time, your split needs to be 15. if everything is happy, your timing is set.

(-5 - 15 = -20)

the first test being at 0 split and -5 on the map? and the second change the split to 15?

well, i re timed. now i aligned the notch with the needle with an ignition set at -4.9 (wolf wont allow -5) any how, my TDC resulted at 60deg trig 1.

Now why is it that haltecks run at 65 degs? plus i could not find the -20 mark anywhere!!!! so i just set the split to 0 and check that the trail flashed at TDC.

Now does this sound feasable??

oh yes....and here are my maps...

Got those problems sorted yet?

I wouldn't mind having a look at your latest map.

AJC

this month was a killer month at work..

i will up lload my last map, and post it. Not much of change...the GPI 1505 is my latest map. I only roughly arrainged my low end (idle fuel) to pass my emmision testing!!

Hey while I was reading one of your posts I noticed
"injectors are re removed, serviced, and the sealing washer from fuel rail and block replaced with VITAN Oring...."

Now this is a WARNING for everyone VITAN Orings once burnt it will destroy human tissue. JUST TOUCHING a burnt VITAN o ring can cause your finger to have to be amputated to save your hand!!!!!

This came from one of my mechanic mates who is very knowledgable.

Michael Smith
p.s. sorry for the off topic reply but I think it is important.

Thanks Michael!!

It is very well on topic since it concerns safety!!

I already advices freinds of mine using VITAN o rings for side housings!

Thanks very much appreciate your interest!!!

George

...today i'll get to work on the sequence for injectors...

thanks to NYT!!

will post tonight with new map and data.

Notch on trigger wheel
 

The notch on the trigger wheel is at 20 atdc or -20.
If you set your car up thinking that this is 5 atdc or
-5. you will be off 15 degrees. This would explain why
all of you run 10-15 degrees advance at idle when the
factory ran 5 degrees atdc. The FD has only ONE notch
that is at 20 atdc. TDC is at the left side of the first blade
to the right of the notch.

If anybody wants to call me please do at 916 289-0488.

Please don't let your engine be blown by miss information!!

Thanks Chris

chris, most of us here run FC's and the marks are at -5 AND at -20.
on an FD the mark is only at -20. I was mistaken in that post as I thought there were 2 marks on the FD. The poster however, was using that mark at 0. I haven't had to set the timing on my FD in years. fixed crank angle sensors are quite nice.