nope.....no errors what so ever under any driving conditions!!!
triggering voltage is very low.
Vlow - Low at 15rpm
Low-Med at 600rpm
med to high at 2200rpm...

i got a very good pick up and response.... i run stoiciometric to lean on cruise..12.7 under boost at wot and rich that you cry at idle...

weird ay? oh and my configuration is set like a #29 engine type.
with ignition 4 set at 0 to give a leading signal!

thanks all for the input, maybe we can figure this out!!

George what plugs are you running? Maybe they are too cold, and start to foul at idle speeds. I had a set of plugs that casued me heaps of grief they had been working well when I started to rebuild my engine. After startup of the rebuilt engine they gave me heaps of flooding problems the plugs where stuffed just from sitting.

Michael Smith
p.s. looks like we are getting closer!!!

Denso Iridium 27 and 31s.

I changed from NGK 7 snd 9s and it got better.... i must work on the fuel map again....

i think thats my weak area.

and good hints? for setting up the low end fuel map? i am keeping the fuel i got for the boosted areas above 38 load....the rest i gotta rework.
:mad:

Your plugs are OK for daily driving I would go one heat range colder if you where going to give it a bit of stick. When I tune my car I always tune from rich to lean and I always try to get a reading on a map load point. I do this by using top gear (not overdrive) and load the engine to the required load and let it rev out taking note of one particular rpm say 3500 rpm if it is rich I drop the pulse width by 0.05 ms for that point. I next do 3000rpm and also take note of 3500 as it passes through. Now if you are happy with the mixture at these 2 points I then scale evenly between these points this is best done with the software only displaying 500 rpm points as it interpolates between the 2 readings automatically. I always prefer running a bit rich.
Michael Smith

sounds like a plan. But first it dawned on me that i may be using the wrong fuel ..DOH
Well to ain some octane points i was using LRP (lead replacement petrol). I spilled some the other day, and two days later there is still a stain on the road!!
I passed my smog and emmision using unleaded 91 octane, but thats clean, it just evaporates and leaves no residue. does it make sense to leave the 'dirty'93 octane fuel and fill up with 91 octane unleaded which 'seems' to be cleaner? I still premix fuel like 15ml with every 10 liters of fuel. i use BP smokeless Powerstroke 2T for lube in the engine....

before touching my map am gonna try the fuel.....you agree??

I use premium unleaded it cost about 5 cents a litre more but gives more power and leaves no residue.
Michael Smith

hehe...we only get LRP, Green (unleaded) or disel!!!

we cant be choosy..93 oct for the LRP and 91 for the green.....

i gotta find some time though to try it out!!

ok....so this is the map with my new ignition table, and unleaded fuel....and a leaner fule map!!

still with a rich idle!!! its driving me mad!!!!trail spark is working and confirmed with a timing light!!!

any clue what can be wrong? :confused:

...and i leaned out by some 10% more!!!!same as before rich idle, stochio to lean on cruise, stocio rich under boost....

beats me !!!

i think dyno tune will have to do it from here on!! any ideas prior that?? :eek:

George have a look at this map. I modified the ignition timing, trailing split, and moved the idle settings from Stepper to PWM it looks like your fuel may be lean but I didn't touch it. I run around 3.38ms

Regards
Michael Smith

thanks Michael. I will have it set up.... well, it may seem lean but that's whats seem to work. when i richened up, the car smoked black really bad!!
the stepper setting was as a last resort...hehe, then i read your post... i will advise.

Make sense with a higher split...

how come you retarded on the idle ignition... i didnt figure that out

The reason for less advance is to ignite the fuel while it is compressed more enabling a better burn. You will also notice that at idle rpm the advance is less than those around it. This is because as you load the engine, say as it stalls, it moves up the load curve the timing is more advances this causes the engine to lift the engine revs and put it back on the idle load point. It is sort on like making a dip in a floor and throwing a marble on it....it always goes to the same point. The split will help cleanup.

Let me know how it goes!

Michael Smith

Corrected. Six of them! :D

sorry for my late response... was out of the country for work...
well i tried the map michael.its much better thank you, but the rich ness is still there... i increased my overall trim, then the engine starts hunting for the rpm. having an extended street port i think it would hunt a bit, but i am not yet sure....the idle has a bit of a stutter with the 20 trailing split, but drivability is quite ok.

thanks for the hints....

i had in mind to run closed loop to ease the emission issues....

I will be using a Bosch LSH24 for my o2 sensor...or an NTK LP18...any hints?

George drop the split down a little to 16 and see how it goes. Maybe the extend porting is causing the rich idle although mind is a very large extend port and it runs nice!
Michael Smith

ok.....back to basics....i think i am asking too much from the engine...

with an extended street port what idle value should i look at?? i mean, the engine runs nicely at 1100rpm stoichiometric.

could it be that i am asking too much at 890???

what idle speed would you recomend on an extended steet port...

i starty with that and reduce the split

thanks Michael

I run 900 rpm without too much trouble but I run standard exhaust ports with large extend port inlet to spool my turbo more quickly. If you have large exhaust ports you will have to idle at 1100 -1300rpm ... at 980 does it hunt up and down? If it does adjust the use the screw on the throttle body to wind up the the RPM to 1100 with the PWM set to 0 and initial centre set to zero! This will be your base idle. Then follow my adjustment instructions.

Michael Smith

FD Trigger 1 Timing
 

ok....so you folks with an FD.

Trigger1 one senser setup was mucked up!!

I am enclosing to maps. The zeroed map is my actual map with no ignition and fuel. I used this to check the trig 1 timing.

My previous trigger settup was set 48.5deg. Well, NTY kindly pointed out the his Haltech FD is running 65. That's one hell of a difference. I used my timing light, and got TDC at 0Deg to be set at trig 1 of 68.9deg.

Also, i set the trailing split to zero, checked the timing and it was bang on TDC.

So, my emmisions were probably due to too much ignition retard. I was running 20deg less on the trigger input. The engine purs now.

The other is the map which michael kindly corrected, with some add ons.

FD owners or REW owners with fixed reluctors....check your trigger1 degrees!! I didnt see one map from an fd with 65-70 deg on trig1.

Will post further....but summer season is here and flights are on the increase....

later.

George :bigthumb:

as far as i know, the FD doesnt have a mark for TDC. The mark is at -5.

you might have your timing 5 degrees off =]

hmmmmmm....i aligned with the mark!!
so should i set up my map to -5 all through, and then align the mark???
then it not i might..but i have aligned 5 deg off!!!!

will get back to you on this....

thanks for the insight

yes, the mark is for -5 =] i was wondering why it was so high. generally i dont see them more than a degree off in either direction.

try 64 for your setting and align at -5

64? why not 74?? I at 0 deg i am aligned with the -5 mark, then my 0 in reality is -5. wouldnt i have to move the trig 1 five degrees forward to meet that difference and zero the timing.....

doh....yeh i see the reasoning.... the mark is off not the wheel so i am actually advance....
stupid question...

actually i was sure it had to come down...but my shop figured it had to go up...so hehe he convinced me..

just confirmed to him 64 it must be.
Thanks NTY....

so, this is the map with 0 timing....ie, -5 degs ignition.

The notch and the needle from the housing should be aligned....at say 64-67 degrees (depending on the individual car)

make sense nyt?

George

FD from the factory throws spark at -5 at idle. thats how timing is checked (they never really set it since the CAS doesnt move)