Wolf 3D help! my engine doesn't run...
#1
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
help! my engine doesn't run...
For some reason my engine doesn't run. I installed S5 TII engine in my S2 RX-7. Did everything by the manual, but can't get the engine to run. It seems to me there is no spark (I can smell the unburned fuel-fumes in the exhaust after too many tries, so it does het gas), but I can't see why.
Maybe I forgot something? Or did something wrong?
If I disconnect the coil trigger lead (red or yellow depending on which coil) shouldn't I be able to check the output impulses from the Wolf by simply using a test-lamp? It just doesn't do anything.
The coils are 12V powered over a relais, and they do get that 12V. I'm wondering about the grounding though.
Maybe I forgot something? Or did something wrong?
If I disconnect the coil trigger lead (red or yellow depending on which coil) shouldn't I be able to check the output impulses from the Wolf by simply using a test-lamp? It just doesn't do anything.
The coils are 12V powered over a relais, and they do get that 12V. I'm wondering about the grounding though.
#2
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you look on the side of the ecu, are the ignition lights flashing on and off when your cranking??
what trigger and coils are you using? stock?
it could also be a trigger problem, when you crank, looking at the handheld, is there a square box that pops up beside the rpm readout?? a couple flashes is ok, if it is on a lot, then something is wrong.
what trigger and coils are you using? stock?
it could also be a trigger problem, when you crank, looking at the handheld, is there a square box that pops up beside the rpm readout?? a couple flashes is ok, if it is on a lot, then something is wrong.
#3
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, the red flashes where there (on the ECU), the square box did go away. So there was no reason not to have sparks, was there??? I'm using TII coilpacks, BTW.
However, by now I also screwed up the CAS, so do't even have any RPM readings anymore. I installed a new sensor but it doesn't help... I'm completely stuck.
However, by now I also screwed up the CAS, so do't even have any RPM readings anymore. I installed a new sensor but it doesn't help... I'm completely stuck.
#5
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V3.1, using TII coils that only fire now and then??? Can anyone make me a little drawing (something in MS paint or simular, just simple) about how to wire in the coils? I checked and double checked, but maybe I don't see a mistake I made? Any ideas and tips are welcome, because the engine should run soon to make me sleep well at night again
I also have Bosch coils here, but no igniters. I only borrowed the coils, so buying igniters for them would be stupid. Is there any way you can use Mazda igniters (like S2/3) on these? I have plenty of those. Or a way to wire in Mazda igniters with 4 coils from first gens?
I also have Bosch coils here, but no igniters. I only borrowed the coils, so buying igniters for them would be stupid. Is there any way you can use Mazda igniters (like S2/3) on these? I have plenty of those. Or a way to wire in Mazda igniters with 4 coils from first gens?
#6
Brother of the Rotary
iTrader: (2)
In regards to the signal errors, make sure that the magnetic pickup is adjusted as close to the CAS disk teeth as possible. I was experimenting with that last week when I was experiencing all kinds of CAS errors.
Even a milimeter can make the difference between a clean signal and no signal.
Even a milimeter can make the difference between a clean signal and no signal.
#7
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by eViLRotor
In regards to the signal errors, make sure that the magnetic pickup is adjusted as close to the CAS disk teeth as possible. I was experimenting with that last week when I was experiencing all kinds of CAS errors.
Even a milimeter can make the difference between a clean signal and no signal.
Even a milimeter can make the difference between a clean signal and no signal.
That problem has been solved, so the CAS signal is clean and clear right now. The only problem I have now is that I do not get sparks. The Wolf triggers the coils (at least the leds are flashing) but the coils don't fire. They fired a few times but no constant spark, and right now, no spark at all. I assume I have them connected correctly, but who knows? That's why I'd like to know how one of the other Wolf users have connected S4/5 coils to the ECU. Aswell as the settings for the DIP switches. I again think they are setup correctly, but maybe I made a mistake?
Trending Topics
#9
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you using a S5 setup (coils etc)? I connected these wires, per Wolf manual: Red wolf wire to trailing trigger (red Mazda, I assume that's that pink one you mention) Grey for trailing select to white on trailing Mazda coil. Yellow wire to red on leading coil.
Since you connected the blue wire instead of the grey one, I'm wondering about this. After all, I just followed the instructions???
Even so, I have the leading ones wired in correctly for sure, and those don't work either!?
Since you connected the blue wire instead of the grey one, I'm wondering about this. After all, I just followed the instructions???
Even so, I have the leading ones wired in correctly for sure, and those don't work either!?
#11
I'm with stupid -----^
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As far as I can recall, I was under the impression that the s5 coils were not compatible with the 3.1 and that you had to use s4 coils only... But I could be wrong
#12
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
this is one of the strangest things I found in the Wolf manual indeed. It's said that S4 coils are ok, S5 ones not. BUT, what's the difference? I checked Mazdatrix-parts lists and found only one ordernumber for 86-91 coilpacks. So there's no way I can identify what coils I have. I also posted this concern here, and some people said S5 are identical, and they are using them with the Wolf.
I bought the coils from a RX-7 parts specialist, but have no idea what series they are (although I assume they are S5). I can't imagine they'd have the same parts number if they are different parts.
I bought the coils from a RX-7 parts specialist, but have no idea what series they are (although I assume they are S5). I can't imagine they'd have the same parts number if they are different parts.
#13
Send me your BMX parts
Do you the the Wolf AND the ignition timing set @ zero? in other words you have to make a zero mark on the CAS to reference the timing. On the CAS you have the 5deg & 20deg. mark, then make a zero deg mark and set it to that. for starters...
also whats your cranking fuel and post start fuel set at... could be real rich. I'm simply through'n things at you that I missed...
you best contact for Wolf EMS is Luis Larquente: efiniiii@yahoo.com
This guy made me car rock just tuning it on the street...
also whats your cranking fuel and post start fuel set at... could be real rich. I'm simply through'n things at you that I missed...
you best contact for Wolf EMS is Luis Larquente: efiniiii@yahoo.com
This guy made me car rock just tuning it on the street...
#14
HEAVY METAL THUNDER
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Posts: 3,864
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, there's a far bigger problem: the ignition isn't too far of or something; there's just no ignition at all. the input signals should be ok, as are the output, at least up to the red leds. The only thing after these leds is supposed to be a resistor. This one could be bust, but I have no idea how to find that out. More exactly: I have no idea where it is...
Another possibilty would be the coils are bad. I did check the coils with an ohmmeter, but I have no idea how to check the igniters.
Another possibilty would be the coils are bad. I did check the coils with an ohmmeter, but I have no idea how to check the igniters.
#16
I'm with stupid -----^
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by mikek
Does anyone with a 13b turbo injected running a wolf 3D I am having problems getting it to run ignition timing
Evilrotor and I are both running 13bt turbos with ver 3.1 .. He's got a s5 motor and I have an s4...
#18
The injection and ignition LED flash on ECM when cranking engine over. I have spark and injection pulsing.it back fires and fire back on itself.How do I check the crank/sync sensor ro get my base timing correct?.
Do I set the timing in the software for leading at 5 degrees ant DC and trailing 20 degrees ATDC software is wolf 3D version 4.56
Do I set the timing in the software for leading at 5 degrees ant DC and trailing 20 degrees ATDC software is wolf 3D version 4.56
#19
Brother of the Rotary
iTrader: (2)
Can the wolf v4 use the stock timing marks?
The V3.1 can't. So I just used a compass you measure out the 15 degrees between the T and L marks. The used that distance to make a 10* BTDC mark. To zero the timing I crank the engine at 10* and adjust timing that way...
The V3.1 can't. So I just used a compass you measure out the 15 degrees between the T and L marks. The used that distance to make a 10* BTDC mark. To zero the timing I crank the engine at 10* and adjust timing that way...
#20
Senior Member
OR... set your cranking timing to 5 or 20 or Zero... whatever mark you have.. and then Crank the engine with the plugs out or whatever method you like to prevent it starting... and hit it with a timing light. Make sure your indicated Timing on the Wolf and the Mark are lined up. (SOrry been up for 22 hours didnt read ALL the thread..)
#21
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: North Queensland Australia
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have had this happen to me!!! Check the cable that goes to your coils and make sure that you connect the earth in that cable to the coilpack!!!! If you don't you get BIGFAT ZERO SPARK!!!!! When you set up your CAS find TDC on rotor 1 then divide the timing pulley into 20 degree lots. Now wind it over 2 times until it is 60 degrees BTC. Setup the CAS so that it is correctly aligned. Now set the Ignition map to 0 degrees and kick it, it will start and you can go from there!!
Smithy
Smithy
#22
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: wayne, nj
Posts: 830
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help with ignition wiring (fd ignitor, 4 seperate coils), and a 12V question
Hey guys,
alright here's my ignition setup:
89 Mazda Turbo2
Wolf 3D V4
FD Ignitor
(1) MSD 6A
(4) MSD Blaster SS Coils
I have nyt's directions on how to wire the FD ignitor and so that part is solved.
But I have a question about the Ignition Ground (Blue/Shield, PIN31) that comes out of the Wolf unit.
basically, where do i ground that too? there's no ground in the FD Ignitor harness, so do I just ground it to the body? or do i ground it directly to the ignitor or what?
Also I'm trying to plan a fusebox setup for the 12v sources i need. However I want to be sure about which ones should get a constant +12V and which should be switched (i figured since most cricuits are ground activated that they'd be constant 12V)
here's my list:
Turbo Timer - +12V Constant
Aux Output 1 (Meth Injection) - +12V Constant to a Relay
Coils - +12V Constant to a Relay (?)
Ignitor - +12V Switched on by ignition
Injectors - +12V Constant (?)
Fuel Pump - +12V Constant to Relay (?)
FAN - +12V Constant To Relay (?)
Boost Controller - +12V Constant (?)
the turbo timer and boost controller are the Wolf ones.
I just want to be able to get everything squared away before i start wiring, please help.
kevin.
alright here's my ignition setup:
89 Mazda Turbo2
Wolf 3D V4
FD Ignitor
(1) MSD 6A
(4) MSD Blaster SS Coils
I have nyt's directions on how to wire the FD ignitor and so that part is solved.
But I have a question about the Ignition Ground (Blue/Shield, PIN31) that comes out of the Wolf unit.
basically, where do i ground that too? there's no ground in the FD Ignitor harness, so do I just ground it to the body? or do i ground it directly to the ignitor or what?
Also I'm trying to plan a fusebox setup for the 12v sources i need. However I want to be sure about which ones should get a constant +12V and which should be switched (i figured since most cricuits are ground activated that they'd be constant 12V)
here's my list:
Turbo Timer - +12V Constant
Aux Output 1 (Meth Injection) - +12V Constant to a Relay
Coils - +12V Constant to a Relay (?)
Ignitor - +12V Switched on by ignition
Injectors - +12V Constant (?)
Fuel Pump - +12V Constant to Relay (?)
FAN - +12V Constant To Relay (?)
Boost Controller - +12V Constant (?)
the turbo timer and boost controller are the Wolf ones.
I just want to be able to get everything squared away before i start wiring, please help.
kevin.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
03-17-22 02:46 PM
ncds_fc
New Member RX-7 Technical
1
08-15-15 10:06 AM