So, thanks to rotamotive I got to work today. I wrote what seems to be a correct way to set up the boost control. Dave and all....does it make sense?

Its in PDF, please do pass your comments.

We should start archeiving the data, and anyone knowlegable on a topic of wolf should set them up so we can set up a database for the wolf set up. The more data the better...and the more accesible the better wolf can become.....

I hope this is recieved well....its my two pence worth...

George

 

I a map that i just did yesterday on a mitsubishi VR4 with the boost control activated on 13psi but i have no idea on how to post them here.
How do you guys post them up here as i have a heap of maps from all different cars...
Cheers

 

Well:

1. Click Post Reply
2. Click Manage Attachments
3. On the Upload File Promt, click browse and select the folder where the file you want to ulpoad is.
4. Click Open
5. You are back to the upload file prompt. Click Upload.
6. When file is listed, click close this window.
7. Click submit reply...
8. tally ho....

Hope this helps....

Regards

 

I like you write up George! I have already saved it in my Rotary files for future reference.
Regards
Michael Smith

 

Thanks Michael. I am off to the drawing boards again.... For some reason I blew a seal yesterday, actually the seal might have got stuck partailly in. I must take my engine apart.
Now while i am at it this is the plan:
3.5 mm seals Hurley matbe or world solution 3mm, solid corner pieces and hyper side seals.
Secondary Port: Full Bridge Port.(primary will stay street ported)
Third fuel rail of 850cc on the secondaries and attach em to the intake manifold...
Fuel Can in frontwith a Walbro 255 in line pump, fuel braiding and FPR from the fuel can.
Mid mount IC custom to cover pretty much the whole area behind the radiator.
Excedy twin Plate Clutch

and...

Maybe...if the account lasts two GT30s 70 trim..... this last has been my long time wish....

no idea what happened.....but i think i got an over boost from my second turbo, exceeded my surgeline, and boosted some 22 psi ignition of 13 degs,with a 10 deg split, and 93 oct fuel....the car flew as if it was charged with NOS!!! and so did the bloomin seal!!

 

Hey George,
Who makes the hyper side seals?
If you like,there is a brand of seal Made in Australia that the guy guarantees them not to break,i think even abel is using them now and they are used by some of the race teams in Australia...
I will now try to upload that VR4 map to see if it works...

 

If this works,please remember that this is for a Mitsubishi VR4 with boost set at 14psi...
You could probably save the boostcontrol map to a csv file if you like as a starting point...
Cheers

 

i will get you the manufacturer of the hyper seals... i know they are blue and said to hold steady till 30psi....

interested in those seals.....

any quotes?

 

The apex seals that im talking about are $1200AU which is a bit pricey but there is another type i can get,looks like the same material and is only $550AU. I have heard nothing but praise for these seals although the more expensive ones are better finished off and is being used worlwide by the top teams around the globe...
We are about to try a set of our own seals.Once we have a bit of feedback,i will let you know how we go but its a little off yet...
Cheers

 

Hey George use Mazda springs, I have head of many springs going flat that are not Mazda oem . I have 3mm seals only because the last blowup damaged the rotor apex slots.
Regards
Michael Smith

 

hey,
Actually I dont know yet what damge was incured. I hope its not a rotor deformation. Yes, I think i might opt for the oem springs, but....the 3 mm seals are nice and sturdy. I had no worries with my 3 mm previously....

By any chance....has anyone heard of a bridge port also on the primary port? for racing purposes definately... but its just a query....

thanks all

George

 

I think nyt has a full bridge turbo as well as a extend port turbo.
Michael Smith

 

...hmmm full bridge on primary and secondary??

 

i only have a secondary bridge. full bridge youll lose some power down low/midrange and your car will idle like dogshit.

 

alot of people have put me off the brigde port..... perheps i should extend my already extended street port....

i am still picking up ideas.

i checked my engine damage. Actually all seals are intact, but, the rotor itself collapsed in the vicinity of all seals..the front rotor. Over boost it seems. Well i was running 14 degrees at the unwanted 22psi!

no damage to rotor housings or side faces.

So it seems i only broke a rotor! i will post pics as soon as my gf returns my camera!!

cheers

 

I just got my '87 t2 and am trying to figure out the boost control feature... now, from the pdf file, its saying that the boost control needs to be set above 10psi? I used the manual and set it at 10, but it didn't do anything... when boosting, i immediately hit the 12psi boost cut. I've never had a rotary or turbo before so i'm definately stumped. Any help would be appreciated.

 

...well depends what waste gate spring you have. The stock Jap. import wastegate spring is at 10psi, full open. I am not sure if your spring is for 12psi.If it is then minimum boost will be 12 psi, try an FD diaphram and it might work better.

 

anyone know why wolf doesn't offer a load vs rpm setup to setup boost, as is setup for the secondary injectors?

I know being able to tune boost at certain rpms is nice and all, but what about the old fashion guys that just want to target one pressure regardless of rpm?

 

Because boost is load think about it!!!! You basically have 107% load at 23 psi and 30% at atmo......Using rpm if you gas it and it breaks traction at 4500 rpm you can just drop the boost a little. Also the higher gears offer more boost usually and that is a generalisation of course.

Michael Smith

 

OK let me try to simplify the setup of the boost control...
Please keep in mind all these starting settings are with the wolf supplied solenoid.
Start by clicking the boost control folder
Activation should be turned on,with the ignition on but engine off,turn the 'Active Above Load' to a point below 0 vacuum to see if the solenoid pulses [you should here it ticking,this indicates that the solenoid is wired correctly.
Now set the 'Active above load' to say 45%-this is the point where the bcs now takes control of the boost curve. The solenoid should not be clicking now.
Turn the mode & overall trim to 0.
SET THE BOOST CUT...
Set the 'valve frequency to 100-120. The valve frequency is like a sensitivity control. If you can feel the car speed up and slow down,change the valve frequency eg 85.
Set the 'boost valve position table to 0, Put the engine under a little bit of load to see if it keeps the standard boost pressure. If overboost occurs,change the 'valve polarity' to the opposite setting. By doing this,you are changing it so that the smaller the number,the lower the boost. If you leave it like this [overboosting], This means that 255 is now standard boost & the numbers work backwards so to save confusion,just change the polarity.
From this point onwards its just a matter of bringing the numbers up until the boost starts to rise. By using 1 number across the range will result in a single boost target... eg-if the turbo is slow to come onto boost,put some bigger numbers in the lower rpms. This will bring the boost on a little faster. In the Wolf manual,it tells you to set the 'active above load' 10% below your target boost pressure...this is sometimes not the case & hence why we turn it on at approx 45% [or whatever setting suits your application] to take control of the BCS as soon as you are on boost or by say 5-6psi.
By raising the numbers you should start to see the boost pressure increase. Be sure to do this slowly as you want to be able to hit your target boost.
You must make sure the tune is MORE THAN SAFE as if the tune is incorrect....you will have a blown engine in no time....
I hope this helps you guys out. If yous have any problems...just ask
We have set up a heap of cars with these boost control solenoids and once you get used to them,you wont use anything else...
Cheers

PS-sorry about the long post.

 

so by setting the pulse width to a single value across the board should hold the boost at a steady pressure?

I tried that to begin with, but i believe my wastegate was insufficient and the boost was creeping, which led me to pursue other means of boost control. Do you think by decreasing the numbers at higher rpms that you could slow the severity of the boost creep? Or do you think that once a wastegate is overwhelmed it will creep regardless of control pressure? (external hks type fyi)

also is there a way to raise the pulse widths as a whole once you find an ideal pulse width curve? ex. if you find a way to get the turbo to spool faster, and the creep under control, but want to raise a few psi now, is there a way to do that without changing each individual value?

 

If the wastegate creeps with no boost controller at all,then regardless of what boost controller you put on there,it will still creep.
Yes if you change the numbers in the high end of the rpm scale,it will bring the boost down...
The way you modify the whole line without going through and changing each point is the same principle as you would if it was a fuel or ignition map. Click on the value or load point and pres either the < key to decrease or the > key to increase the values or if you double click on it,you can enter 1 value in across the range...
Cheers