Wolf 3D Anyone else having horrible luck with Wolf systems?
11-09-04, 10:18 PM
#52
here, try this.. I made all the changes i suggested in your map without modifying anything else. your ignition map is a little cleaner now, your car should idle smoother and the advance curve is a little smoother as well.. i bumped up your ignition split from 8 to 10 past your torque peak. the fuel map needs more work, as it was definitely not dyno tuned since it looks like it'd be running very rich at high rpm (i dont see any drop off in the fuel map). I added some fuel to the midrange where it would need it mimicing the other values where they were raised (assuming this had some dyno tuning here). I adjusted the engine temperature compensation values, your car should run smoother when cold now. you may need to adjust your start fuel pulse values but im not sure. i changed your transient settings so you should have better response when you step on the gas now.
This car still needs to be tuned to run properly, and you need to make sure your timing is set right to begin with otherwise you will have loads of problems. this isnt a cure-all, this is just neatening up some stuff you had there... you use this at your own risk.... if you use it, let me know how it works out
This car still needs to be tuned to run properly, and you need to make sure your timing is set right to begin with otherwise you will have loads of problems. this isnt a cure-all, this is just neatening up some stuff you had there... you use this at your own risk.... if you use it, let me know how it works out
Last edited by nyt; 11-09-04 at 10:21 PM.
11-09-04, 11:38 PM
#53
Originally Posted by nyt
you want a rising rate at 1:1 to balance out the fuel to the boost thats pushing on it.
if i set my fpr to 30 psi and ran 20 psi of boost, thats only effectively 10 psi of fuel pressure.
if i set my fpr to 30 psi and ran 20 psi of boost, thats only effectively 10 psi of fuel pressure.
i think you got mixed up somewhere.
A rising rate fuel pressure regulater is often used for n/a cars that have been turboed or supercharged and still use factory ecu. So rather then messing with a stand alone a cheap and easy way to do it would be with an FMU (or rising rate fuel pressure regulator). How it works is simple. There's usually different one's you can get. 6:1, 8:1, 12:1. What this means is for every lb of boost you run fuel pressure will rise either 6/8/12 lbs ABOVE your base setting. So if your running 40PSI fuel pressure and 10lbs of boost with a 6:1 regulator you will end up with
100PSI fuel pressure. You can quickly see that this is not the way to do because many fuel pumps can't run that high let alone flow enough flow with that much pressure. But this is what you usually see in turbo kits for n/a cars because it's very cheap.
now a normal fuel pressure regulater is 1:1 unless you don't run the vacuum line then it stays where you set it.
SO if you have a base pressure of 30PSI and run 20lbs Boost you will be running
50PSI fuel pressure.
11-10-04, 12:30 AM
#54
High HP turbo cars(or any turbo car) needs to have fuel pressure regulators with 1:1
If you didn't your boost in the intake would push the fuel thru the injector backwards and back into fuel rail.
If you didn't your boost in the intake would push the fuel thru the injector backwards and back into fuel rail.
11-10-04, 01:11 AM
#55
Originally Posted by nyt
yeah a rising rate is retarded and not nearly as precise a measure as a wolf or other high tech ecu. you want 1:1 to compensate for vacuum and boost so that you have the same pressure difference between the fuel and the intake.
that post was basically what i was trying to say in the earlier post but people around my computer kept interrupting me and messed me up.. i read it again now and laughed a bit
11-10-04, 08:26 PM
#57
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Originally Posted by enzo250
SO if you have a base pressure of 30PSI and run 20lbs Boost you will be running
50PSI fuel pressure.
50PSI fuel pressure.
I like it also, because you can get the higher flow and fuel atomization of higher pressures but your fuel injectors aren't subject to the beating of high fuel pressures during normal driving.
of course I'm talking about the norml 1:1 setup
11-10-04, 08:28 PM
#58
Originally Posted by aki11ez
if you're "base pressure is 30 psi, then under vaccum it will suck it down around 12 psi.
I like it also, because you can get the higher flow and fuel atomization of higher pressures but your fuel injectors aren't subject to the beating of high fuel pressures during normal driving.
of course I'm talking about the norml 1:1 setup
I like it also, because you can get the higher flow and fuel atomization of higher pressures but your fuel injectors aren't subject to the beating of high fuel pressures during normal driving.
of course I'm talking about the norml 1:1 setup
11-16-04, 06:36 PM
#59
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Originally Posted by eViLRotor
With 94 Octane at 15 psi: I run 17* advance until peak torque, drop it down to 14*, then ramp it back up to 16* until 7500 rpm.
With 91 Octane, it goes 14*-->12*-->14*.
I'd been running this map for about 2 yeras. Steve Kan looked at my IGN map when tuning my car in November and didn't change a thing
With 91 Octane, it goes 14*-->12*-->14*.
I'd been running this map for about 2 yeras. Steve Kan looked at my IGN map when tuning my car in November and didn't change a thing
aki11ez@gmail.com
11-16-04, 08:31 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by eViLRotor
Its V3.1 Map though. If you still want it let me know, I'll send...
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