This is not a thread to scam the system. I'm really trying to pass legally.

I've posted in the PFC thread that I'm tired of playing the smog game and I'm looking at going back to the sock ECU so I can pass smog (everything else is bolt on). During the discussion on the difficulty level of re-wiring for the stock ECU it was brought up that I might not need to change the ECU if the visual passes and the emission test passes.

I know I can get the computer to pass the emissions part and since the computer is tucked away I don't think it will be part of the visual inspection once I put back on all the old parts ( I have everything but the exhaust and cat). Does anyone have any imput on this. My smoging knowledge is limited.

my current set-up is in my signature if you need to know it to help answer my question. Thank you.

 

My guess would be that you would need a CARB sticker for those Apex'i intakes, the down pipe could fail the visual and would need that old POS pre-cat... Also the mid pipe would be a problem because no main cat... Maybe you'll need the air pump working for the main cat to work right... The Power FC should be OK or if you want to switch to the OEM ECU that should work too... What strange wiring was done to add the Power FC??? It should be a plug 'n play... Good Luck... Smog'in sux...

Cordially,
-DD-

 

^ all that stuff, and yeah the air pump has to be connected and working..depending on who smogs the car they may not even check cats and downpipe. I won't mention hos name, but my smog guy rarely checks to see if the cats are present.

 

I'm plannig on buying a cat (and now pre-cat), for everything else I have the original parts so I'm going to put them back on.

Someone on the PFC thread mentioned that since the 7 is a OBD1, the smog tester don't/can't plug in for a diagnostic check. I check and noticed that the car doesn't even have a place to plug in. Do you guys kow if this is correct?

 

That seems about right, I have passed before with an M2 downpipe and aftermarket solenoids (not visible).
Make sure the main cat (I'd recommend low mileage stock) and airpump are working properly.
You can usually ask them to run a test first to see if it meets the requirements without going to the system. Depending on your location you may have to do the dyno smog test.

 

You may need stock ecu still. Depends on the tech. Their suppose to check for the CEL to come on with the key. It doesn't with the power fc. You can however wire the CEL to come on with another light to make them think its working.

 

I think it is true that since the 7 is a OBD1, the smog tester don't/can't plug in for a diagnostic check... They will want to hook up their tester to find a timing signal and may thrash around looking for spark or some other source... It worked out best for me to be able to point out each and every "part" they will want to find for the visual test... There were some things like the evap system and egr valve that are not easy to spot... So, get out your manuals and memorize where each component is so you can help your STAR man out a bit... And yea, they should check that the CEL stuff works as expected... Good luck...

Cordially,
-DD-

 

Bring proof of the evap system as well. Took my tech 30 mins of searching cuz he didn't believe me when I said the charcoal canister is in the gas tank area. Luckily my friend knows him and had to explain it to him.

 

when I had my FD, I ordered a pre-cat from a mazda dealership in Irvine. it came from somewhere out east and the other in exsistance was in Canada.

You may pass with a PFC as long as your commander is NOT visible (disconnect it from the PFC) and if your MIL (check engine light for the non-car savvy) illuminates for the functional test.

FD's don't require the LPET (low pressure evap test) since the test ports are well tucked between the diff and fuel tank.

just make sure you have EVERY vacuum hose in tact and routed correctly and there is an EGR functional test for cars older than 2000.

 

+1 (this guy knows his stuff)

The idiot light needs to function (turn on and off with key activation).
Since the line for the EVAP can to tank is "inaccessible", it is exempt from the test.
The EGR functional test checks to see if it actuates and returns back to "normal".

Seems like all you have to worry about is the MIL.

 

Although it was a royal pain (3 retests!) mine just recently passed with stock ECU, PFS intercooler, downpipe, M2 intake, cat-back.

Had to eventually swap out the main cat from my other FD to get it passed.

They do verify that the check engine light goes on when you start it up, at least my local smog place did.

-Mike

 

I'm surprised they didn't fail you instantly with all those mods.

 

Hey, have you had issues passing SMOG with your PFS intercooler in the last few years?
I had no problems until 2015, now no one will even inspect mine because they see the PFS and no CARB sticker. It does not seem to have an Exemption, so I'm curious if you still have the PFS and how you've been able to pass SMOG?

 

Vehicles originally equipped with turbochargers don't need CARB numbers for intercoolers. Page 49. It's commonely referred to as Appendix G of the Air Resources Board if you do a search. Best of luck.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/2017_Smog_Check_Manual.pdf

 

Slightly off topic, but does anyone have any recommendations for OBD1 (legit) smog places in the Los Angeles South Bay area? I've really been struggling to find a good place since they are turning down OBD1's these days.