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overheating problem

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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #26  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by d0 Luck
junk it... PM me for free towing so I can relieve you of your headaches.

hahah my car still runs strong.. rite now its fine its still shoots up but not as much as before cuz i put my fan clutch back but i just need to get rid of that clogged ugh !
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 04:41 PM
  #27  
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From: Pulling you over
I know, I know. Why don't you get an aftermarket temp guage and not rely on the stock piece of ****?
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 05:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RE_Fc3StaRr
so how am i gonna get rid of that... i flushed it twice .. do u know any sites where i could get the diagram for the coolant stuff where it travels.. maybe i could go tru that and find where the clogged is
that copper stop leak stuff sticks everywhere. if you had air bubbles in your system and the stock leak came into contact with it it woulda solidified into a big glob of copper.

you shouldnt be running a clutch fan and an efan. do one or the other. i prefer clutch fan if yours is probably working. for the efan do you have it wired to a thermoswitch to turn on and off at certain temps? do you have the stock underbelly pan on the car? from what it sounds like if your efan was running the entire time while on the freeway it would actually impede air flow to the radiator.
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 05:26 PM
  #29  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by ilike2eatricers
that copper stop leak stuff sticks everywhere. if you had air bubbles in your system and the stock leak came into contact with it it woulda solidified into a big glob of copper.

you shouldnt be running a clutch fan and an efan. do one or the other. i prefer clutch fan if yours is probably working. for the efan do you have it wired to a thermoswitch to turn on and off at certain temps? do you have the stock underbelly pan on the car? from what it sounds like if your efan was running the entire time while on the freeway it would actually impede air flow to the radiator.
well if one of them runs by itself.. my temperature still shoots up... and my efan has a termostatic control ... and my efan blows away from the radiator not in.. i dont know wat to do.. sometimes its good temp.. sometimes its not.. especially at night when i drive it my temp shoots up like crazy... i think im gonna get it flushed agen next week when i get my pay check and as for the clogged i dont know lol
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 05:28 PM
  #30  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by Fumanchu
I know, I know. Why don't you get an aftermarket temp guage and not rely on the stock piece of ****?
maybe i'll do that .. ima look for one then..
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 05:30 PM
  #31  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by jonesfromindia
**** koyo rad's i got mine, and all its been is a pain in the ***. it has less than 3k miles on it, and it leaks. its been making my car run hotter than normal.

i have the same freeway problem, i drive it around streets, get on the 101 and then wham, it shoots up 1/2 way. hit traffic, slowly goes down. im getting it looked at today.

let me know what they say about .. hopefully nuttin major
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #32  
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If a coolant system able isnt able to build pressure when the temp rises it will overheat. What kind rad cap(mazda I hope!) are you using? Does the clutch fan tighten up as the temp increases? Any bubbles come out of the overflow when the car is running? What ratio of water to antifreeze 50/50 or better? (meaning more water to coolant 70% water to 30% antifreeze is best in our hot, non freezing climate IMO) I would pressure test the system as my next step if I were you.
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #33  
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You Still haven't answered wether you have a under pan tray or not... If you don't, chances are thats the problem.

I take it from the lack of answer, for the three times it's been asked.. that you do not have a under pan tray.
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 08:54 PM
  #34  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by trainwreck517
You Still haven't answered wether you have a under pan tray or not... If you don't, chances are thats the problem.

I take it from the lack of answer, for the three times it's been asked.. that you do not have a under pan tray.


im sorry... what is that... what does that do
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 09:00 PM
  #35  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by socalrotor
If a coolant system able isnt able to build pressure when the temp rises it will overheat. What kind rad cap(mazda I hope!) are you using? Does the clutch fan tighten up as the temp increases? Any bubbles come out of the overflow when the car is running? What ratio of water to antifreeze 50/50 or better? (meaning more water to coolant 70% water to 30% antifreeze is best in our hot, non freezing climate IMO) I would pressure test the system as my next step if I were you.

i got the cap from pepboys those stants... im not sure about the fan clutch i never really noticed it im pretty sure it works... and no bubbles comes out... and i use the regular coolant.. i put more coolant thatn water... i think its because of that stop leak thing.. i never had a problem before.. till i put that stupid thing
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Old Mar 7, 2007 | 09:15 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by RE_Fc3StaRr
im sorry... what is that... what does that do
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #37  
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From: SYLMAR
Originally Posted by d0 Luck


its my first rx7
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 12:47 PM
  #38  
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is your halogen fluid full?
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 12:48 PM
  #39  
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its the plastic pan under the engine bay. helps to direct air through the radiator instead of around it. go get an OEM pressure cap as well. if it's STANT brand you'll probably have problems with holding pressure.

also water is better at cooling than antifreeze so you should have at least 50% water not under 50%.
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 01:11 PM
  #40  
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oh ok thanx i'll try to do that... .. i'll let you guys know wassup

and yes all my fluid are fine.
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #41  
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Man this suck I heard the koyo's not reacting to well on the 7's we modifed our koyo's for that reason. But check the clutch on the fan with the car at idle if you could stop the fan with your hand and yes i said your hand then it's no good use a towel and just press down on the fan shroude
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 01:49 PM
  #42  
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i havent heard anything wrong with koyos on 7s except for a bad batch a few years back where the flange for the radiator cap was warped.
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 02:29 PM
  #43  
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wow.. ! i shouldve just bought me a stock radiator.. cant go wrong with that...
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by RE_Fc3StaRr
wow.. ! i shouldve just bought me a stock radiator.. cant go wrong with that...
stock radiators can crack and explode since they have plastic endtanks. if you had a stock one and got too hot you'd probably be buying another one right now. nothing wrong with koyos other than that bad batch years ago. i dont hear any complaints about them other than you 2 though Most likely it's all that block weld stuck in your system that you'll never be able to get out with replacing tons of stuff.
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Old Mar 8, 2007 | 07:54 PM
  #45  
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I got a koyo and I havent had any issues except over cooling at high speed IE over 110, and this was with a stock fan I could stop with my hand that was missing 2.5 blades due to hitting the shrowd, which was cracked and missing a spot on the top so the fan would clear. IT STILL NEVER OVER HEATED, or ever even got more than a quarter on the gauge. Now I got a efan as of last week and now it is stuck on the t stat temp with a 2100 CFM 16 inch new from Jegs, 71 bucks shipped, killer price for a good fan IMO. I am now looking to fab up a nice ALM shrowd and mount the fan a few inchs off the koyo( it is mounted with no shrowd right now) Stock rad SUCK ***, that has been my first mod for both of the 7's I have owned. BTW you can use a s5 fan which has more blades and works better than s4 if your keeping the stock setup.
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Old Mar 9, 2007 | 02:05 AM
  #46  
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No problem with my koyo either.
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