I'm having my struts, shocks and springs redone and was hoping for some input. First off, I'm supplying all parts and he's charging me 160.00 for the labor. Is that a good deal??? Then if I'm supplying the parts, is there other things I should purchase/replace besides the three different parts (struts, shocks, spring). About a month ago madzatrix supplied all suspension and steering bushing and other crap that they said I needed so he'll have those. And I'm somewhat restoring this SA so the most I'd lower it is 1", so what brands and store would offer the most quality at a good price.

 

This week i'll be putting on my Eibach Pro Kit springs and Tokico HP's all around on my 84 FB.

 

I will do it for $100. then the remaining $60, buy korean bbq and lots of heine's.

 

Wacky would also accepts slurpy slurps as a method of payment. Receiving or giving......

 

160 if with all the bushings is a good deal (unless you have wacky do it). But you will need an alignment afterward. As for springs, I recommend coilovers, but it sounds like not quite what you are looking for. Keep in mind that most of these cars are 25 years old and the stock springs are sagged. don't be surprised if your "lowering springs" puts the car up higher than before...

 

Dude DJDino that girl on your sig is bangin =) she can have my anyday...ofcourse after we hahaha sorry for the thread jack whoremonies raging -_-*

 

Isn't that hard to do yourself.

 

lol

 

I used to work at Sears Auto doing sales. $50 for each strut (front $100) and bout $20 for each shock ($40) so $140 retail. I'd do it for a $100.

ST Springs will give you a good drop but aren't as stiff as RB althou RB isn't as low.

AS far as other suspension parts. I know how to replace all and have replaced all on my 84. I can also get a good deal on parts...like that MOOG aftermarket idler arm i can get for $10 cheaper...

Ask around on the fourm I wrked on several ppls cars.

I live now in Culver City so Im close to Torrance. I free any day of the week. Let me know.

-Ryan

323-383-2506

 

On my '85 SE you see in my Avitar I stayed with the basics. Tokico blues and RB springs.

If I had to do it over again, I would go Tokico blues and RB springs.

And if I had to do it over again again, Tokico blues and RB springs.

 

very hard...-_-*

well brb gonna go to the gf =D

 

the problem with SA are:

sucky brakes
good replacement cartridge are NLA.


Better if you just upgrade to an 81-85.

 

lol...point taken

 

You got it Ryan, I'm not cheap, but would rather keep the biz in the family. I'm selling my FC right now to get the funds to do that plus I need some clutch or tranny work on it as well. I'll call you a couple of days.

Leon
80sarx7@gmail.com

 

I am having the same work done on my SA. I am using the Energy Suspension Hyperflex master bushing kit in conjunction with all MOOG parts to rebuild the steering and other components. Let me say that I am, where possible, replacing everything suspension and steering related. The car is 27 years old and all of the rubber bushings, ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms, struts, shocks, springs, strut top mounts, watt links, front and rear control arms are all shot. For a lot of this I've accumulated parts from several different sources including eBay. Check mazdatrix.com for watt link pivot bracket (no bushing is included in the Hyperflex kit) and rear control arms (they do not recommend using Urethane in them and so far I can't find rubber replacements of just the bushings). The Hyperflex kit can be purchased from the Energy Suspension eBay store or energysuspensionparts.com as well as other sources. The rest of the suspension and steering bits came from rockauto.com which is an awesome parts resource. A good friend of mine is helping me with the replacement of all of this. I am supplying the part and paying a little over $600 to refurbish it all. This is including cleaning of all of the parts to be reinstalled, getting rid of any rust found and painting things where necessary. It may seem like a lot of money, but I want it to be done properly the first time. A little more money up front saves money and headaches in the long run and I plan on being buried in my SA 60 or so years from now. FBs are cool, but without the success and development of the SA, they would not exist, nor would they have been as popular. We'd all be driving 924s and 240Zs. History must be preserved. In response to WackyRacer (no flame or offense intended) on sucky brakes, check out www.rotorhead.ca for the brake specs on both the SA and FB. They are identical with the exception of vented front rotors and the solid rear discs in the GSL. It wasn't until the GSL-SE (84-85) that braking was significantly improved with 9.8 inch vented discs in the front and 10.1 inch solid discs in the rear.

 

no need to give me tutorial noob (no flame or offense intended) as there is a difference between the SA and FB brake calipers. SA and old school suck period. Besides, if you cant do it alone then your credential is no bueno.

 

your so right, my centiments exactly on the SA being the godfather of all rx7's and 8's, and so the rx2's etc... getting the credit for the overall rotary. Which is especially why I am restoring mine cause it's also the 10th Anniversay Edition of the rotary as well as being an SA. But I too will eventually replace the entire under side but cannot afford do it all within the same year even.

 

what do you think that hot girl with the black SE would think about that???

 

-_- you suck Dave -_-* No No...you swallow -_-* she doesn't read the forums heehee

 

ok well then i guess i will call her....LOL

 

you suck...you dont have her number...

 

it was written on the $5 she got out of her car........

 

keep on talking and your louvres* are gone =D

 

coming off as we type!!!!!

Sold with da rear seats!!!

 

Why don't you just do it yourself?