New struts, shocks and springs for my SA
11-11-07, 11:59 PM
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New struts, shocks and springs for my SA
I'm having my struts, shocks and springs redone and was hoping for some input. First off, I'm supplying all parts and he's charging me 160.00 for the labor. Is that a good deal??? Then if I'm supplying the parts, is there other things I should purchase/replace besides the three different parts (struts, shocks, spring). About a month ago madzatrix supplied all suspension and steering bushing and other crap that they said I needed so he'll have those. And I'm somewhat restoring this SA so the most I'd lower it is 1", so what brands and store would offer the most quality at a good price.
11-12-07, 02:08 AM
#3
I'm having my struts, shocks and springs redone and was hoping for some input. First off, I'm supplying all parts and he's charging me 160.00 for the labor. Is that a good deal??? Then if I'm supplying the parts, is there other things I should purchase/replace besides the three different parts (struts, shocks, spring). About a month ago madzatrix supplied all suspension and steering bushing and other crap that they said I needed so he'll have those. And I'm somewhat restoring this SA so the most I'd lower it is 1", so what brands and store would offer the most quality at a good price.
I will do it for $100. then the remaining $60, buy korean bbq and lots of heine's.
11-12-07, 02:30 AM
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160 if with all the bushings is a good deal (unless you have wacky do it). But you will need an alignment afterward. As for springs, I recommend coilovers, but it sounds like not quite what you are looking for. Keep in mind that most of these cars are 25 years old and the stock springs are sagged. don't be surprised if your "lowering springs" puts the car up higher than before...
anyday...ofcourse after we 
hahaha sorry for the thread jack whoremonies raging -_-*
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11-12-07, 06:18 PM
#8
CEO of Belligerents INC.
11-13-07, 02:05 AM
#9
Ryan
I'm having my struts, shocks and springs redone and was hoping for some input. First off, I'm supplying all parts and he's charging me 160.00 for the labor. Is that a good deal??? Then if I'm supplying the parts, is there other things I should purchase/replace besides the three different parts (struts, shocks, spring). About a month ago madzatrix supplied all suspension and steering bushing and other crap that they said I needed so he'll have those. And I'm somewhat restoring this SA so the most I'd lower it is 1", so what brands and store would offer the most quality at a good price.
I used to work at Sears Auto doing sales. $50 for each strut (front $100) and bout $20 for each shock ($40) so $140 retail. I'd do it for a $100.
ST Springs will give you a good drop but aren't as stiff as RB althou RB isn't as low.
AS far as other suspension parts. I know how to replace all and have replaced all on my 84. I can also get a good deal on parts...like that MOOG aftermarket idler arm i can get for $10 cheaper...
Ask around on the fourm I wrked on several ppls cars.
I live now in Culver City so Im close to Torrance. I free any day of the week. Let me know.
-Ryan
323-383-2506
11-13-07, 02:48 AM
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On my '85 SE you see in my Avitar I stayed with the basics. Tokico blues and RB springs.
If I had to do it over again, I would go Tokico blues and RB springs.
And if I had to do it over again again, Tokico blues and RB springs.
If I had to do it over again, I would go Tokico blues and RB springs.
And if I had to do it over again again, Tokico blues and RB springs.
11-13-07, 11:41 AM
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11-13-07, 11:46 AM
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I used to work at Sears Auto doing sales. $50 for each strut (front $100) and bout $20 for each shock ($40) so $140 retail. I'd do it for a $100.
ST Springs will give you a good drop but aren't as stiff as RB althou RB isn't as low.
AS far as other suspension parts. I know how to replace all and have replaced all on my 84. I can also get a good deal on parts...like that MOOG aftermarket idler arm i can get for $10 cheaper...
Ask around on the fourm I wrked on several ppls cars.
I live now in Culver City so Im close to Torrance. I free any day of the week. Let me know.
-Ryan
323-383-2506
ST Springs will give you a good drop but aren't as stiff as RB althou RB isn't as low.
AS far as other suspension parts. I know how to replace all and have replaced all on my 84. I can also get a good deal on parts...like that MOOG aftermarket idler arm i can get for $10 cheaper...
Ask around on the fourm I wrked on several ppls cars.
I live now in Culver City so Im close to Torrance. I free any day of the week. Let me know.
-Ryan
323-383-2506
Leon
80sarx7@gmail.com
11-14-07, 01:15 PM
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I am having the same work done on my SA. I am using the Energy Suspension Hyperflex master bushing kit in conjunction with all MOOG parts to rebuild the steering and other components. Let me say that I am, where possible, replacing everything suspension and steering related. The car is 27 years old and all of the rubber bushings, ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms, struts, shocks, springs, strut top mounts, watt links, front and rear control arms are all shot. For a lot of this I've accumulated parts from several different sources including eBay. Check mazdatrix.com for watt link pivot bracket (no bushing is included in the Hyperflex kit) and rear control arms (they do not recommend using Urethane in them and so far I can't find rubber replacements of just the bushings). The Hyperflex kit can be purchased from the Energy Suspension eBay store or energysuspensionparts.com as well as other sources. The rest of the suspension and steering bits came from rockauto.com which is an awesome parts resource. A good friend of mine is helping me with the replacement of all of this. I am supplying the part and paying a little over $600 to refurbish it all. This is including cleaning of all of the parts to be reinstalled, getting rid of any rust found and painting things where necessary. It may seem like a lot of money, but I want it to be done properly the first time. A little more money up front saves money and headaches in the long run and I plan on being buried in my SA 60 or so years from now. FBs are cool, but without the success and development of the SA, they would not exist, nor would they have been as popular. We'd all be driving 924s and 240Zs. History must be preserved. In response to WackyRacer (no flame or offense intended) on sucky brakes, check out www.rotorhead.ca for the brake specs on both the SA and FB. They are identical with the exception of vented front rotors and the solid rear discs in the GSL. It wasn't until the GSL-SE (84-85) that braking was significantly improved with 9.8 inch vented discs in the front and 10.1 inch solid discs in the rear.
11-14-07, 02:58 PM
#16
In response to WackyRacer (no flame or offense intended) on sucky brakes, check out www.rotorhead.ca for the brake specs on both the SA and FB. They are identical with the exception of vented front rotors and the solid rear discs in the GSL. It wasn't until the GSL-SE (84-85) that braking was significantly improved with 9.8 inch vented discs in the front and 10.1 inch solid discs in the rear.
no need to give me tutorial noob (no flame or offense intended) as there is a difference between the SA and FB brake calipers. SA and old school suck period. Besides, if you cant do it alone then your credential is no bueno.
Last edited by Siraniko; 11-14-07 at 03:07 PM.
11-14-07, 05:49 PM
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I am having the same work done on my SA. I am using the Energy Suspension Hyperflex master bushing kit in conjunction with all MOOG parts to rebuild the steering and other components. Let me say that I am, where possible, replacing everything suspension and steering related. The car is 27 years old and all of the rubber bushings, ball joints, tie rods, pitman and idler arms, struts, shocks, springs, strut top mounts, watt links, front and rear control arms are all shot. For a lot of this I've accumulated parts from several different sources including eBay. Check mazdatrix.com for watt link pivot bracket (no bushing is included in the Hyperflex kit) and rear control arms (they do not recommend using Urethane in them and so far I can't find rubber replacements of just the bushings). The Hyperflex kit can be purchased from the Energy Suspension eBay store or energysuspensionparts.com as well as other sources. The rest of the suspension and steering bits came from rockauto.com which is an awesome parts resource. A good friend of mine is helping me with the replacement of all of this. I am supplying the part and paying a little over $600 to refurbish it all. This is including cleaning of all of the parts to be reinstalled, getting rid of any rust found and painting things where necessary. It may seem like a lot of money, but I want it to be done properly the first time. A little more money up front saves money and headaches in the long run and I plan on being buried in my SA 60 or so years from now. FBs are cool, but without the success and development of the SA, they would not exist, nor would they have been as popular. We'd all be driving 924s and 240Zs. History must be preserved. In response to WackyRacer (no flame or offense intended) on sucky brakes, check out www.rotorhead.ca for the brake specs on both the SA and FB. They are identical with the exception of vented front rotors and the solid rear discs in the GSL. It wasn't until the GSL-SE (84-85) that braking was significantly improved with 9.8 inch vented discs in the front and 10.1 inch solid discs in the rear.
what do you think that hot girl with the black SE would think about that???
