Looking for a shop in AZ
Looking for a shop in AZ
I have searched the forum already.
And all I have come up with is AZ Rotary Rockets.
I talked to Tom there, and he was really nice, except that he said that they are pretty busy until further notice.
I have a 88 GTU; I got it running, and now it needs some more help. It stalls when I press the gas too hard.
I wanted to know if anyone knows of any places near chandler or so, that I could take it. I have tried everything I know to get this car fixed, and nothing is working.
If anyone can please shed some light, that would be fantastic. Thanks so much!
And all I have come up with is AZ Rotary Rockets.
I talked to Tom there, and he was really nice, except that he said that they are pretty busy until further notice.
I have a 88 GTU; I got it running, and now it needs some more help. It stalls when I press the gas too hard.
I wanted to know if anyone knows of any places near chandler or so, that I could take it. I have tried everything I know to get this car fixed, and nothing is working.
If anyone can please shed some light, that would be fantastic. Thanks so much!
AZrx7.com
That's kind of odd for it to stall when giving it lots of gas. Unless an injector is flooding or timing is off.
Does it stall when you do it in idle or when your driving/load? Does it drive normal if your gentle on the gas?
That's kind of odd for it to stall when giving it lots of gas. Unless an injector is flooding or timing is off.
Does it stall when you do it in idle or when your driving/load? Does it drive normal if your gentle on the gas?
How much have you driven it? Could be bad alternator and battery is getting low. Check the battery voltage, when running you should get a bit over 14v and when stopped you should have about 12.
Tom
Tom
Well, I just changed the battery, and it reads ok. I cant imagine the alternator being the problem. As it starts fine, and drives fine.
It idles really high, around 1.6k or so after warmup.
ANd I tightened the screw down as much as possible to get it that low.
I am able to drive it around, just as long as I dont step on the gas too hard. But if I do, its like the engine chokes or something to that effect.
I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, starter, battery and the oils and stuff like that.
So there is my problem.
Thanks for the replys though guys. I really cant thank you guys enough.
It idles really high, around 1.6k or so after warmup.
ANd I tightened the screw down as much as possible to get it that low.
I am able to drive it around, just as long as I dont step on the gas too hard. But if I do, its like the engine chokes or something to that effect.
I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, starter, battery and the oils and stuff like that.
So there is my problem.
Thanks for the replys though guys. I really cant thank you guys enough.
What screw did you tighten?
The hard idle screw? Or the one on the TPS linkage?
On US models the hard idle screw is usually just a small screw with no head and a line cut through it and a small 8mm nut to hold it in place.
The TPS screw has a philips head and is on the linkage itself.
It almost sounds like you've adjusted the TPS screw and sent the readings out of whack which would cause bucking and stuff under throttle.
The hard idle screw? Or the one on the TPS linkage?
On US models the hard idle screw is usually just a small screw with no head and a line cut through it and a small 8mm nut to hold it in place.
The TPS screw has a philips head and is on the linkage itself.
It almost sounds like you've adjusted the TPS screw and sent the readings out of whack which would cause bucking and stuff under throttle.
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Wait....
Digi7ech, can you ellaborate on what you just said?
Lets see here, as far as what I did:
There is a screw on the very top of the motor. (where it says 13b Injection blah blah right) and I tightened that one, as that is the only screw that made a difference as to the idle speed.
What screw are you talking about?
I messed around with the screw on the throttle thing (where you can press it down, and it revs the engine) but after it didnt do anything, I put it back to where it was before.
So in reality, the only one I changed, as per my knowledge is the very top screw.
Digi7ech, can you ellaborate on what you just said?
Lets see here, as far as what I did:
There is a screw on the very top of the motor. (where it says 13b Injection blah blah right) and I tightened that one, as that is the only screw that made a difference as to the idle speed.
What screw are you talking about?
I messed around with the screw on the throttle thing (where you can press it down, and it revs the engine) but after it didnt do anything, I put it back to where it was before.
So in reality, the only one I changed, as per my knowledge is the very top screw.
I'm not exactly sure what that one on the top of the manifold does. I haven't had an NA in a while but I remember something about people having issues after messing with it.
The one on the TPS linkage is sensitive as it is directly related to th resistance output of the TPS. The TPS shoudl sweep from 1K to 4-5K ohms without any blips and shouldn't go much higher than 5k ohms. A misadjusted TPS can cause hesitation issues and bucking sometimes.
Where in chandler are you? I work over in Temp during the week and get out after 7pm. I may be able to come over and do some simple tests on the tps and stuff.
The one on the TPS linkage is sensitive as it is directly related to th resistance output of the TPS. The TPS shoudl sweep from 1K to 4-5K ohms without any blips and shouldn't go much higher than 5k ohms. A misadjusted TPS can cause hesitation issues and bucking sometimes.
Where in chandler are you? I work over in Temp during the week and get out after 7pm. I may be able to come over and do some simple tests on the tps and stuff.
I'm not exactly sure what that one on the top of the manifold does. I haven't had an NA in a while but I remember something about people having issues after messing with it.
The one on the TPS linkage is sensitive as it is directly related to th resistance output of the TPS. The TPS shoudl sweep from 1K to 4-5K ohms without any blips and shouldn't go much higher than 5k ohms. A misadjusted TPS can cause hesitation issues and bucking sometimes.
Where in chandler are you? I work over in Temp during the week and get out after 7pm. I may be able to come over and do some simple tests on the tps and stuff.
The one on the TPS linkage is sensitive as it is directly related to th resistance output of the TPS. The TPS shoudl sweep from 1K to 4-5K ohms without any blips and shouldn't go much higher than 5k ohms. A misadjusted TPS can cause hesitation issues and bucking sometimes.
Where in chandler are you? I work over in Temp during the week and get out after 7pm. I may be able to come over and do some simple tests on the tps and stuff.
I live over at Ray and Rural.
I will have to take a look and see what your talking about. The FSM has pictures about the TPS, but it is from a different engine, and I got confused.
If you would like to stop by, that would be so awesome!
Just let me know when a good time for you would be.
Thanks again!
I work over on elliot and hardy so I'm just down the street.
Here is a great thread on things to check out.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...d+adjust+screw
Here is a great thread on things to check out.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...d+adjust+screw
Last edited by Digi7ech; Nov 14, 2007 at 02:18 PM.
Wow. That is a ton of information. I will have to take a look into it.
Good thing the weekend is coming.
Thanks again Digi. This helps a lot.
I will have to do as much as I can, so I dont have to take it somewhere. I dont want to pay people to do stuff I can... You know?
Thanks!!!
Good thing the weekend is coming.
Thanks again Digi. This helps a lot.
I will have to do as much as I can, so I dont have to take it somewhere. I dont want to pay people to do stuff I can... You know?
Thanks!!!
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