My car has been running good ever since I bought it and once I flooded the engine it has gone down hill. I replaced the spark plugs and did the deflood method to remedy it. And it worked. Once I got it running the idle has been bad idles around 500 and dips to a stall . My mods are Apexi N1 exhaust and ARC box. If anyone knows someone or a place that would look at the problem. It is running but it very sluggish. My number can be given with a PM. Located in Rancho San Diego.

 

well SD is kinda of a dead spot for professional rotary mechanics. There is no one that I feel comfortable going to, let alone recommending one. That is why I go to LA when I need my car worked on.

Edit- By any chance did you remove the intake elbow when changing the spark plugs? If you did you very likely moved the idle screw that is located at the bottom of the throttle body

 

I believe that may be the problem. I'll try to look up on here to find the fix. I removed the stock elbow to get better access to the sparkplugs.

 

Listen to people and myself spend the money on gas a trailer and whatever else you need to do, and just take your car up north to LA LA Land bro...San Diego does not have **** for tuners or mechanics...

 

The fix? if it's just the screw then you just go in there with a screw driver and turn the thing lol. You dont even need to take anything off so it should take you about one minute.

 

sup montego...cant tell from your pic there but thats the fd with yellow accents on the rims right? that car is so damn clean bro...how you been? been to any other rotards meet down there at NTC lately?

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fixed-my-idle-problems-backfiring-bucking-more-170731/. Here is the thread I found for the "fix"

 

hey teddy,

I've been good and you?

Actually the rims are just silver with a chrome lip but thanks for the compliment . I have started to attend more meets... Not sure if there is going to be one tomorrow as I havent seen a thread about it...


the TPS adjustment is not the same as the idle screw. The reason I keep saying the idle screw is because the same thing happened to me a few years ago. I changed my spark plugs and also removed my intake elbow in order to do the job. After i was done my car wouldn't idle worth of ****... After some head shaking I went back to examine WTF could I had done to **** something up and that screw just seemed like the a culprit. And it was.

 

but why would you go from taking the 4 10mm nuts off to grabbing a flat head screwdriver and spending 5 minutes getting the flat head lined up on the screw head in order to move the screw just the take the elbow off? it's not every easy to mess with that screw even if you are intentionally trying to..

in all honesty his description to me sounds like low compression, FDs don't flood very readily unless they have good reason to.

 

[QUOTE=Karack;10349414] but why would you go from taking the 4 10mm nuts off to grabbing a flat head screwdriver and spending 5 minutes getting the flat head lined up on the screw head in order to move the screw just the take the elbow off?

Honestly I have no idea why I even needed to re adjust the screw given that I never touched it. But it did need some adjustment.


Yeah you never know... but one should check the easy things first

 

I flooded it because I started it and turned it off right away thinking that something was going to blow or something, the car was shaking violantly and the RPMS on the accelerated warmup was at like 5k and didnt seem to go down. . It was like 30 or so degrees out that night and I didnt know why it was idling to harsh. It hasnt done this since I have been driving it to work. I think that was the cause of the harsdh cold start. I only flooeded it twice once going up my driveway to my garage and not thinkning and this.

I have been working the past couple of days since I started this thread and havent got a chance to give it a good look. I work graveyards so I dont have much time to work on it since I sleep in the day.

I have been drove it to work the past couple of days and it seems to be fine around 3k RPM. I have to press really light on the peddle and takes a while to accelerate. I have good compression last time I checked that was in Aug. when I got the car.
Sorry if I dont seem to make much sense. :<

Well Ill also look at the idle screw too. I want to see if its something small before I get a trailer and take it up to L.A.

Ill be working on the car in the couple days just work has been a pain for my schedule to facilitate room for my car.

 

Interesting...

 

There's a shop up in Oceanside called JDM Concepts. Rotories are not their specilty, but they have had a number of 7's and 8's roller through their doors, including mine. I won't say they are a "rotory" shop, but they have years of experiance with stock to modified motors. They are currently building a highly modified FD, so they do know their stuff.

Give them a call if you'd like: 760.806.9489

This is just my 2 cents

 

Ill give them a call if I cant fix the idle. A friend of mine at work gave me the number of a mechanic who rebuilt his FC. I can still drive the car but I just need to watch the car when I go into neutral. Ill also check for a vacuum leak incase thats the problem.

 

have you checked to make sure the map sensor did not fall off or become loose? its up on the firewall near the throttle body.

 

Update: I changed one of my hoses that is connected to my AWS to see if I can get it to work since it doesnt trigger the system. It did not work even though the hose had a leak and was hard as a rock.

I ordered all the maintance parts for the car. Oil/fuel filters, doing oil changes for diff, motor, brake, powersteering, and doing the coolant flush.

I also ordered a HKS downpipe which I plan on getting temp coated next week. I have all the gaskets for the install.

I also bought new spark plug wires. I am also going to check the injectors and cleaning them.

The map sensor isnt loose/fell off.

If anyone wants to help me I plan on going to the autoshop on the Naval base here in San Diego. I plan on doing the job in 2 or so weeks. I can provide lunch and drinks if you want. PM if interested.

Hopefully this will help the car run. If it doesnt I guess its rebuild time :<

 

If you're still looking for a San Diego rotary mechanic:

I've been taking my RX-7s to Z-Whizz (now called Aero Auto Care and located off of Aero Drive) since the early 80's when they worked on nothing but Datsun Z's and Mazda RX-7s. They now work on all types of cars, but I've found them to be trustworthy, highly competent, and with reasonable prices. They are more of standard mechanic shop than a "tuner" place, but they do know rotary engines well. It's the only place I would take my RX-7 to.... feel free to check them out and see what you think...