"How the West was OWNED!
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okay so i redid all the vacuum lines....two had burst so it seems to hold an idle now.....i found a gasket for the down pipe and installed it....checks good no leaks......tommorrow i will recal the tps and install the push start so i don't have to deal with the bad starter wiring.....the microtech manual say to lock the ecu and set timing to 5 degrees....so thats where i stand right now.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
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Adjustable from 30 to 70 PSI.
Two -10 AN inlet and one -6 AN return ports.
1/8'' NPT gauge port
A vacuum boost port (ideal for turbo charged or supercharged engines)
Alcohol compatible
CNC-machined from 6061-T651 billet aluminum
how does that sound? now how would it be adjusted or would it just use the vacuum to adjust it's self?
Two -10 AN inlet and one -6 AN return ports.
1/8'' NPT gauge port
A vacuum boost port (ideal for turbo charged or supercharged engines)
Alcohol compatible
CNC-machined from 6061-T651 billet aluminum
how does that sound? now how would it be adjusted or would it just use the vacuum to adjust it's self?
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Middle of nowhere
2.) I'm trying to plumb my stand-alone EFI regulator properly, where do I put the regulator, before or after the fuel rail(s), and what ports do I use?
Unlike a standard or “dead-head” carb regulator, which controls pressure between itself and the carburetor, the bypass regulator controls pressure between itself and the pump. Therefore, the correct EFI regulator location is after the fuel rail(s) whenever possible, promoting the required fuel pressure, flow volume and velocity through the fuel rail and to the injector inlet, at all times. Most Aeromotive EFI regulators have two inlet ports, one on each side, and one bypass port, on the bottom. Either inlet may be used with a single fuel rail engine, both inlets with a dual fuel rail. Any unused inlet ports must be blocked with the appropriate port plug. The ideal flow-path is: out of the fuel pump, into one end of the rail; out the other end of the rail, into the regulator side port(s); out the regulator bottom port, back to the tank at the top. Dual rail applications should employ a Y-block to split the supply line before entering the rails, then individual lines are run from the opposite end of each rail to each inlet port on the regulator.
Unlike a standard or “dead-head” carb regulator, which controls pressure between itself and the carburetor, the bypass regulator controls pressure between itself and the pump. Therefore, the correct EFI regulator location is after the fuel rail(s) whenever possible, promoting the required fuel pressure, flow volume and velocity through the fuel rail and to the injector inlet, at all times. Most Aeromotive EFI regulators have two inlet ports, one on each side, and one bypass port, on the bottom. Either inlet may be used with a single fuel rail engine, both inlets with a dual fuel rail. Any unused inlet ports must be blocked with the appropriate port plug. The ideal flow-path is: out of the fuel pump, into one end of the rail; out the other end of the rail, into the regulator side port(s); out the regulator bottom port, back to the tank at the top. Dual rail applications should employ a Y-block to split the supply line before entering the rails, then individual lines are run from the opposite end of each rail to each inlet port on the regulator.
1.) After installing a larger (or secondary) fuel pump for my EFI engine, the fuel rail pressure went up and my regulator won’t adjust it back down, what’s wrong?
To understand this problem, it’s necessary to know that a fuel pump does not “put out” fuel pressure, it “puts out” fuel flow. A bypass regulator, correctly matched for a given flow volume, sets up a controlled restriction of this flow, thereby creating and then managing fuel pressure. If the regulator won’t adjust pressure down, verify it is large enough for the pump in use. Also, check the return line for kinks or obstructions and make sure the line size is adequate for it’s length and the flow it must handle going back to the tank. Remember, at low load (idle and cruise), the regulator and return line together must flow over 99% of the pumps volume. If the return line or the regulator, or both, are too small for the pump, the resulting fuel pressure is considered false-high. This means pressure is out of the regulator’s control and will drop to the actual regulator set point as the engine goes under load (WOT). A test for correct regulator and return line selection and function is to confirm pressure will adjust at least 5 psi lower than the desired base pressure, vacuum line disconnected.
To understand this problem, it’s necessary to know that a fuel pump does not “put out” fuel pressure, it “puts out” fuel flow. A bypass regulator, correctly matched for a given flow volume, sets up a controlled restriction of this flow, thereby creating and then managing fuel pressure. If the regulator won’t adjust pressure down, verify it is large enough for the pump in use. Also, check the return line for kinks or obstructions and make sure the line size is adequate for it’s length and the flow it must handle going back to the tank. Remember, at low load (idle and cruise), the regulator and return line together must flow over 99% of the pumps volume. If the return line or the regulator, or both, are too small for the pump, the resulting fuel pressure is considered false-high. This means pressure is out of the regulator’s control and will drop to the actual regulator set point as the engine goes under load (WOT). A test for correct regulator and return line selection and function is to confirm pressure will adjust at least 5 psi lower than the desired base pressure, vacuum line disconnected.
so bassically your fuel lines are too small and are pumping too much fuel at any given time... you can buy the regulator but there is still that possibility that insuffucient fuel or too much fuel is still going to be happening
