Is there anybody in norcal that is willing to come to san jose and help me work on my t2 and figure out whats wrong with it. ive tried taking it to buddys shopd but there way to busy to help me on the side. so if theres any skilled s4 t2 techs that want to hangout and get paid $ to work on my car lmk. i might even through in a dinner at outback steakhouse aswell no lie.


please rx7 club! your my only hope!

Please and thank you,

-Ryan


ill be on aim most of the day for quick contact

 

my cousin used to work at outback steakhouse...

so what are some of the symptoms?

 

So i bought the car in non running conditon (wouldnt start or hold ilde) car hasnt actually ran for more than a year. so when i got it back to my place i put gas in it and tryd to start it and it would flood. so i thought it was leaky injectors so i bought a full set up remaned ones and now it still flood sometimes and i have to pinch the main fuel line to get it to start. and i still has a hard time starting.

a little backround on the car.

supposivley it has a new motor with less than 30 hrs on it. the car never ran right after the engine was put in.

all emissions were removed

car is a wiring mess or so it seems to look like

oh and i have to manually turn on the fuel pump beacuse it dosent turn on with the ignition.

car starts at 45psi fuel pressure when i checked it. is that a little to high?

 

don't rely on the fact that it was rebuilt. do a compression check on the motor first before spending hours and hours trying to diagnose a hard starting/flooding issue. flooding issues are generally due to low compression and a compression test takes no more than 10 minutes to do. if the compression is fine then you probably have some massive vacuum leaks somewhere like a badly cracked turbo intake duct(common problem).

 

that happened to me already.

 

i used an actual rotary compression tester from mazda. the compression is good and i wouldbt be asking for help if i thought it wasnt a runner.

oh btw karack toni said that you know this t2 better than everybody else.

 

is that the one with the cage in it and cancer at the left rear quarter?

if so try swapping the AFM if you know someone with a good T2 AFM, i suspected that to be faulty but i didn't have one with me when i went up there to inspect the car. i know nothing about that engine build, only that it looks like a rotary resurrection engine.

 

Yep. Same one that Tony had.

 

ah ok, well i checked out the basics. have fun with the wiring under the dash... you're going to need a comb for that car.

 

well i tried using another afm form my buddys parts selection but that could have been faulty too. this car is such a head ache!!!!


who is the guy who put that car back together.? he should never lay another hand on an Rx ever againl ol(no offense to the previous owner )


kinda dumb of me to buy another persons project. adn not have the time to put into it

 

i wouldn't rule out that the other AFM was faulty but i also wouldn't count on the odds of it either, assume it's not the AFM and start checking things like fuel pressure, spark plugs, plug wires, spark, etc.

i have no clue who put the new engine in. once it left the first Tony's hands it went to another, then another, then to you. the owner i knew was running low octane fuel(87 octane begins to detonate at 8PSI) knocking the engine at 9PSI of boost (he also loved removing the cats against my recommendations..)with no fuel mods, blew the motor then sold the car. the ignition needs to be rewired back to get rid of the retarded push button and double checked to make sure the ignition itself isn't fubar. the engine was firing but not consistently when i saw it before it got to you, like the timing was way far off or it was severely flooding. it's been cranked on so much that flooding is going to be normal, getting it cleared out and running right is the issue, trying to figure out what the problem is.

i would also double check the primary injector clips, they have a tendency to push the pins back in the connector causing a bad connection at one of the injectors. you can also clean the plugs off and remove the EGI fuse, crank the engine and check the plugs for wetness(check for coolant on the plugs, not fuel, for example a lighter will burn fuel off but it won't burn coolant off after a few seconds), it is still possible the person who installed the engine overheated it and it is leaking water internally which is fouling the ignition and causing the flooding, or that it was improperly built and has a small internal leak. compression can be fine but even a small internal water leak will give the false impression of severe fuel flooding.

 

wow. i hope its not a small coolant leak....

dang i have a long way to go. are you sure you dont want to work on it? ill tow it to you

 

i'll have to make sure i have room first. no room as of right now but should be in a few days.

if it's not something minor expect it to take a bit of time to get sorted out, i have alot of people waiting to get cars fixed.

 

well if you can pm me your number so i can get ahold of you later this week.

thanks ben is it?

 

hey ben whats the address for your shop im hoping to have the money for a rebuild by early to mid aug and you can take your time with it im not going to rush you since you do such good work from what i hear

 

hey i never go the number to your shop or what the buizzness name was.

 

its rotary evolution and the phone number is on the sticky a few times

 

 

im having a hard time keeping my car running at idle it vibrates really bad and when i drive it runs horrible at wot it barly creeps rpm i have to deflood my engine to get it to start smells horrible of gas advise? i seen you said low compression can i use a reguler compression tester? if so what plug does it matter?

 

^fyi, don't thread jack, and this is a 3 month old topic

 

ill do it if you come up to chico...
about outback... what should i wear??

 

^3 month old topic.

 

this running?

 

i think he is still replacing the afm