yeah that tuner portion is very true to the fullest.

 

I know psomeone running RA seals with over 100k on them we a fair amount of mods and psi so they cant be all bad; Ive got over 30k on mine.

 

i think my friend who was thinking of buyingt he RA seals only heard the bad part of the seals and didn't hear there good side. But all in all seals are seals to be honest it just all goes into how well you tune like boost said above

 

atkins or even the butter soft hurley seals would probably be good for a budget rebuild on a N/A with used housings, they would break in much faster, and probably wear out about the same time the housings finished.

any seals will stand up to repeated light detonation, light is the key word, as in detonation under vaccum, to very low boost with very little throttle I had an engine die due to crank trigger issues (my fault) the apex seal groove itself failed, it was out about 3 MM on both edges, but the seal itself was intact but bent, no seals would have helped that falure

 

i am not saying that atkins seals dont work for regular boost meaning 20-25 but teddy ask about massive boost , real boost + nos for a drag car not a weekend warrior that mashes on his or her car once in a blue moon and claim they have 1000s of horses under the hood .

 

RA with stock springs on the FD.

 

Hahaha stuff not just me for anyone looking for info here in the west coast section looking for info on good seals. My friend has a pair of hurly's here that the end of the apex seal broke off. Still brand new only cranked once from a motor he bought of another friend. Hurly won't sell the apex seals individually we have to buy the whole kit again

Horse power for me would only be around 500hp to 600hp i think i could do it. My brother is gunna run stock mazda trix seals on his with the same amount of power

 

i have had audible detonation up to 15PSI on atkins seals and they held up, one did chip at the corner edge while i was pushing the limits on 87 octane fuel and exited the engine without damaging the rotor, housing or the turbine wheel. no visual wear on the rotor, housings or seals after 25k miles so i stick with atkins seals in my engines and recommend pre-mixing the fuel.

every OEM seal i have seen chip in the same manner has always scarred up the rotor to some extent and gouged the rotor housing. maybe the atkins seal was a lucky shot and got shot straight out but i stick with them anyways since they are cheaper, withstand just as much abuse as OEM and they are easier to install; i hate ******* with rubber bands to hold the seals to the rotor with springs installed...

 

NRS for the past year, they are as advertised.
John

 

ceramics on the 12a jbridge, they're worth the investment since they have immeasureable wear and therefore reusable w/o loss of compression, are made to tightest tolerances so apex seals spring pressure can be increased, if they detonate they usually turn into ceramic powder so don't eat internals.

stockers on the 13b streetport in repu.

 

So the ceramic seals do just turn into dust whent the motor goes and if they don't there re-usable to a certain extent, that good to know. I'am really leaning toward the cermaic or the mazda stock seals

 

Not necesarily true. It depends on which seal you are using and what causes it to grenade. Th price discerpancy between the stock and ceramic seals is significant. Usually people who are seriously looking at ceramics do not even consider stock seals. The ceramics will save you money in the long run, but the oems are a great seal for the price(in my opinion, the best in that price range)....but they don't compare to ceramics.
John

 

yeah i know don't the cermics run about g bar and lil bit more?

 

mazda oem 2mm steels

 

3mm ceramic

 

Got a friend who knows a machinist who could make the seals ima c what happens with this.