yeah, he said he got them off his del sol, so he thought they would fit. They did, but in the wrong direction. Easy mistake to make.

 

Just a fyi, never ask for help in the west section...it's overflowing with belligerents.

 

AKA the "bunch of dicks"

 

yeah, i tried the RAD hoses off my riding lawnmower and those didn't work either. but since their in the car already i think i might just convert the whole car over to a briggs and straton set up anyway. what do you guys think about that? it'd be lighter and get much better gas mileage all without losing the sound of a NA rotary. it's a win win situation, no?

also, sorry WackyRacer, i looked over your comment without giving it much thought or something, i dunno i must have been busy jerking off my best friend. i'm used to you being an *** to everyone with your ten thousand or whatever useless comments. my bad, next time i will pay more attention.

 

check your fan and what about your oil cooler?

 

That was a Thought of mine, but on most cars they won't reach ! Learned something new... on an FC ANYTHING is possible

 

fan is good, it's also the third one, i had lot's of parts cars and other friends with running driving cars to swap part and test

 

There has to be some blockage somewhere for all the coolant to go to overflow and not back into the radiator. When it overheats is the radiator warm ? at the inlet/outlet (where it goes back into the block) ? If it's not that fluid is in the rad, and it can't move back into the block, and then it has to be something around the thermostat, and if it is hot(er), then it has to be something is stopping the circulation from continuing...

What about the water pump ? Belt turns pump but if you take the outlet from the motor off, and let it crank, once warm does it pump out water ? Could be a bubble in the pump, and it needs some bubble purging... so it might not be priming the pump...

I've had deamons in my cooling systems, that caused overheating, and all I had to do is jack it up high enough to make certain to get the air out, and things were happy, but yours sounds like more than just a pressure problem. But the ceason I say so is that (proper air purge) would remain constant no matter how many rebuilds / rads you swapped out...

Maybe find the highest point on your cooling system and put a bleeder valve / fitting on it to bleed trapped air.

 

i have a pineapple racing yoohoo belt and then a stock alternator belt so i know the pump isn't slipping, that yoohoo belt is a bitch to get on ant there's no way that thing is screwed up.

radiator is pretty hot but gauge reads normal temp even while coolant is flowing nicely down my driveway. and we sat and bled the motor forever once before to no end but i will have to try checking out the flow of coolant. thanks for the input.

 

If the radiator is hot, and overflowing into overflow tank, and not returning, in my experience that definitely points to Rad Cap. I also have bought 2 Rad Caps from Auto Zone, to replace the Pettit one I got with their AST, and then one from autozone was messed up and didn't hold pressure... without or with too much pressure the collant will dump into over flow... that's how the cap is supposed to work... maybe try one with higher or lower pressure rating, as a test, someone here might be able to tell you which will work better for your test... (Dump more / Less coolant into reservoir)

 

Engine rebuild

 

Did you check the Flux Capacitor? All rotarys come standard with one.

 

dude thats ******* crazy your losing water, don't know where the hell it's going, and have pretty much changed or up-graded every part related to the cooling aspect. Damn that sucks. Flush the system something's not adding up here

 

only thing I can come up with is the heater core screwing something up maybe?! Try bypassing it as a last resort?!

 

Laserkei, flux capacitor is good, i checked it before i left by opening up the six ports during a full throttle run and i surely would have hit warp speed except that your mom weighs far to much in my passenger seat to do so and i didn't have the heart to kick her out.

 

i'm doing an entire coolant system flush soon and buying all new everything, from Mazda, if this doesn't work i'm saving up my money to do the rest of the Briggs and Straton swap from my lawnmower. i really do believe it to be the best option at this time. same NA rotary sound, same NA rotary horsepower, quarter of the cost of a good rebuild. i can't go wrong. if anyone else has suggestions please leave them.

 

**** lol

 

.........................

 

There is a FSM available for the RX7. You should read it sometime before you waste $3000 because of a stupid mistake.

 

or if you have a day and the car can make the trip safely just bring it by and i can check it out. it's about an hour drive from natomas.

 

Looks like a dead string, but I'll toss my $0.02 worth in.
I'm also having a problem w/ coolant entering the tank and not returning when the engine cools. I checked the tank, and low and behold, the straw (my technical term for it) is too short. Prior owner replaced all of the vacume hoses and rad return hoses w/ pritty red tubeing. Didn't pay enough attention to how long the origonal tubes were. SO.. when it draws the coolant back into the engine, it starts sucking air long before it hits the bottom of the hold tank.

Anyone know how long the straw should be. I'm assumeing it needs some clearance form the bottom of the tank to keep from drawing in sludge that may build up from coolant break-down.

 

1. What are you doing in the West section?
2. This thread is from last year...

 

LOL here we go!!!!!!!!!!

 

use a voltmeter on your coolant. if it reads anything other than zero then that means your gay.