Buying RX7, Need advice..! HELP!
08-31-01, 05:56 PM
#1
Passenger
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Buying RX7, Need advice..! HELP!
Hello Everybody..
I fell in love with an RX7 when I saw it, and now it's on sale. i need some advice on buying an RX7. What should I be worried about? What shoudl I watch out for? what should i check before buying?
Also, whats this whole thing about "rotory engines"? Whats the advantages and dissadvantages of those vs. any normal engine?
Here is the care below, can you all tell me please if it's worth the price?
Thanks:
Year: 1989
Make: MAZDA
Model: RX-7
Model Detail: GXL
Price: $2,990 (CANADIAN DOLLARS)
Mileage: 173,000 KM
Comment: 7 GXL-Fully loaded, 5 speed, very rare 2+2, ps, pm, pl, air conditioning, sunroof, fog lights, adjustable suspension, 4 wheel steering, AM/FM cass. w/ equalizer, alarm, alloys, blue with white stripes, blue interior, all service records, will cert. 173,000 km. 173,000 km.
Do you all think thats a good price? I really need some good advice, I'm gonna go see it tomorrow and I need to know a few thing before I test drive it.
Thanks..
I fell in love with an RX7 when I saw it, and now it's on sale. i need some advice on buying an RX7. What should I be worried about? What shoudl I watch out for? what should i check before buying?
Also, whats this whole thing about "rotory engines"? Whats the advantages and dissadvantages of those vs. any normal engine?
Here is the care below, can you all tell me please if it's worth the price?
Thanks:
Year: 1989
Make: MAZDA
Model: RX-7
Model Detail: GXL
Price: $2,990 (CANADIAN DOLLARS)
Mileage: 173,000 KM
Comment: 7 GXL-Fully loaded, 5 speed, very rare 2+2, ps, pm, pl, air conditioning, sunroof, fog lights, adjustable suspension, 4 wheel steering, AM/FM cass. w/ equalizer, alarm, alloys, blue with white stripes, blue interior, all service records, will cert. 173,000 km. 173,000 km.
Do you all think thats a good price? I really need some good advice, I'm gonna go see it tomorrow and I need to know a few thing before I test drive it.
Thanks..
08-31-01, 06:04 PM
#2
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That's about $2000 US and that's probably reasonable. Be sure to get a "rotary" compression check done to check the engine. If it's not up to snuff, the price should be half.
08-31-01, 06:04 PM
#3
Common 2nd gen problems:
Occasional flooding after short cycles (running the engine for under a minute).
Wiper switch will begin to not work. The relays inside the switch have usually failed and need replacing.
Differential mounts seem to go a lot.
Try this FAQ for info on general rotary knowledge:
http://mrmazda.members.atlantic.net/
Occasional flooding after short cycles (running the engine for under a minute).
Wiper switch will begin to not work. The relays inside the switch have usually failed and need replacing.
Differential mounts seem to go a lot.
Try this FAQ for info on general rotary knowledge:
http://mrmazda.members.atlantic.net/
08-31-01, 06:20 PM
#4
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Originally posted by BhamBill
That's about $2000 US and that's probably reasonable. Be sure to get a "rotary" compression check done to check the engine. If it's not up to snuff, the price should be half.
That's about $2000 US and that's probably reasonable. Be sure to get a "rotary" compression check done to check the engine. If it's not up to snuff, the price should be half.
Also, I need more opinions from you all on how you see the price
If it's good or too high.Thanks
08-31-01, 06:58 PM
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$2,000 seems pretty fair. A compression test will tell you how strong your engine is running. It is important for all the readings to be equal.
I bought an 88 GXL 2 months ago and it has been great. If the engine starts to lose its compression it will eventually need to be rebuilt. I am not sure of the exact numbers, but I am sure that somone will be on here to tell you.
Good Luck
I bought an 88 GXL 2 months ago and it has been great. If the engine starts to lose its compression it will eventually need to be rebuilt. I am not sure of the exact numbers, but I am sure that somone will be on here to tell you.
Good Luck
08-31-01, 07:39 PM
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have you driven the car yet? some other things to look for:
--does it idle smoothly (should be around 700 rpm)? If not, you'll probably be back on the forum pretty soon, joining the masses in troubleshooting your various emissions controls (common problem, but generally solvable).
--does the engine stall or stumble when you turn on the a/c? Solution is the same as previous. Also, if the a/c doesn't work, you'll probably want to convert to the newer refrigerant for about $300. on the other hand, you may not need a/c at all.
--the auto-adjusting shocks probably don't do much any more, and factory replacements are hideously expensive, so most people buy aftermarket. (I have an '87 GXL with the original auto shocks and 90k miles, and they definitely need replacing.)
--open the front radiator cap (the one that says "do not open") when the engine is cold, stick your finger inside and rub it around. If it's rusty/gunky/oily, the cooling system hasn't been well maintained and you're likely to need a new radiator at some point.
--if you don't like the second seat, it's easy and fairly cheap, once you track down the used parts on e-bay or wherever, to remove it and convert back to the factory storage bins (I did the opposite so my daughters could ride in the back).
--take the car out on the freeway after it's warmed up and run it up to redline, and see if it's happy running at that speed. Does it pull smoothly to redline? (If it starts to stumble around 3,800 rpm, that's a common electrical problem and (usually) easy to fix.
--ask lots of questions, not just for the answers but to see if the owner sounds honest. Why is he selling it? How long has he owned it? Has it ever been in a wreck? What maintenance does he do, or who does it for him? Where did the white stripes come from?
That said, I think the price is very fair for a car with that mileage, assuming it's in nice condition (nice interior, no rust). I bought an RX-7 brand new in 1986, sold it four years later 'cause I had a kid, and bought an '87 on e-bay earlier this year. And I appreciate this car even more the second time around ... I sold an Acura Legend that was my daily driver and now use the RX.
Advantages of rotary engines:
--unique. Only car in the world with it.
--invented in Germany, perfected in Japan!
--very smooth compared to piston engines.
--reliability. taken care of properly (admittedly, a big if) they can go 150 to 200k miles without a rebuild.
--no head gaskets to blow or timing belt to break.
--love high revs.
--small size and low weight allows placement behind the front axle, resulting in near perfect 50-50 weight distribution.
Drawbacks:
--finicky emissions and electronic controls
--few shops know how to service them
--not much torque at low rpms
--disappointing gas mileage for a small engine and light car.
--does it idle smoothly (should be around 700 rpm)? If not, you'll probably be back on the forum pretty soon, joining the masses in troubleshooting your various emissions controls (common problem, but generally solvable).
--does the engine stall or stumble when you turn on the a/c? Solution is the same as previous. Also, if the a/c doesn't work, you'll probably want to convert to the newer refrigerant for about $300. on the other hand, you may not need a/c at all.
--the auto-adjusting shocks probably don't do much any more, and factory replacements are hideously expensive, so most people buy aftermarket. (I have an '87 GXL with the original auto shocks and 90k miles, and they definitely need replacing.)
--open the front radiator cap (the one that says "do not open") when the engine is cold, stick your finger inside and rub it around. If it's rusty/gunky/oily, the cooling system hasn't been well maintained and you're likely to need a new radiator at some point.
--if you don't like the second seat, it's easy and fairly cheap, once you track down the used parts on e-bay or wherever, to remove it and convert back to the factory storage bins (I did the opposite so my daughters could ride in the back).
--take the car out on the freeway after it's warmed up and run it up to redline, and see if it's happy running at that speed. Does it pull smoothly to redline? (If it starts to stumble around 3,800 rpm, that's a common electrical problem and (usually) easy to fix.
--ask lots of questions, not just for the answers but to see if the owner sounds honest. Why is he selling it? How long has he owned it? Has it ever been in a wreck? What maintenance does he do, or who does it for him? Where did the white stripes come from?
That said, I think the price is very fair for a car with that mileage, assuming it's in nice condition (nice interior, no rust). I bought an RX-7 brand new in 1986, sold it four years later 'cause I had a kid, and bought an '87 on e-bay earlier this year. And I appreciate this car even more the second time around ... I sold an Acura Legend that was my daily driver and now use the RX.
Advantages of rotary engines:
--unique. Only car in the world with it.
--invented in Germany, perfected in Japan!
--very smooth compared to piston engines.
--reliability. taken care of properly (admittedly, a big if) they can go 150 to 200k miles without a rebuild.
--no head gaskets to blow or timing belt to break.
--love high revs.
--small size and low weight allows placement behind the front axle, resulting in near perfect 50-50 weight distribution.
Drawbacks:
--finicky emissions and electronic controls
--few shops know how to service them
--not much torque at low rpms
--disappointing gas mileage for a small engine and light car.
08-31-01, 08:47 PM
#7
Originally posted by XxDriverxX
but what would a ""rotary" compression check" tell me? If it does turn out bad, does that mean it would need a new engine or is that a fixable thing?
but what would a ""rotary" compression check" tell me? If it does turn out bad, does that mean it would need a new engine or is that a fixable thing?
A rotary compression check will give you 3 numbers for each rotor, this coincides with the 3 faces of each rotor. You'll get something that will look like this (assuming you use the official Mazda checker):
Front Rotor: 5.9, 6.0, 6.5
Rear Rotor: 6.0, 6.2, 6.1
Those numbers are completely made up by the way.
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08-31-01, 11:17 PM
#8
Passenger
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Hi everybody..
Thankyou all VERY much for the info, especially gvink. Those points will prove to be very helpfull when i go see the car tomorrow.
A few questions:
1) When certifing it, do they fix up all that finicky emissions and electronic controls or do I have to pint it out and figer it out myself?
2) Certifing it, would they do the "engine pressure check" and give me the result or is that something I have to do by myself?
3) say the engine is bad, how much is a new one? How much is installing it?
4) Should I go for a 1987 Turbo II with the same milage but $CA4000 instead and in better condition? :P
Thankyou all, I'll keep u updated.
Thankyou all VERY much for the info, especially gvink. Those points will prove to be very helpfull when i go see the car tomorrow.
A few questions:
1) When certifing it, do they fix up all that finicky emissions and electronic controls or do I have to pint it out and figer it out myself?
2) Certifing it, would they do the "engine pressure check" and give me the result or is that something I have to do by myself?
3) say the engine is bad, how much is a new one? How much is installing it?
4) Should I go for a 1987 Turbo II with the same milage but $CA4000 instead and in better condition? :P
Thankyou all, I'll keep u updated.
09-01-01, 08:36 AM
#9
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not sure what you mean by "certified." Is this like a "certified" used car from a dealer? If so, that is a mild plus, DEPENDING ON WHAT KIND OF WARRANTY they offer. If it's one of those "50 percent off repairs" warranties, it's worthless. If it's a drive train warranty, maybe it's worth something.
around here, a "certified" used car means that it's passed some kind of inspection, but it's used more as marketing hype, since it's the dealer's internal inspection. What's more important is not what they said they inspected, but what they guarantee.
do you have emissions tests and has the car passed? If you have tests and the car doesn't have a sticker, I'd make sure I got the test before I bought the car (since one with severe problems usually won't pass the test)
and they're unlikely to have done a compression check. If they say they have, ask to see the numbers. If you don't see SIX numbers (three for each rotor),
then you know they didn't do it.
Regardless, if you're buying a 14-year-old car, don't expect it to be in flawless condition. I guarantee things will be wrong with it, or will go wrong with it, and you're either going to learn to fix it yourself or pay somebody else. So you might want to think about that before buying am RX-7. These are very nice cars, but there are finicky bits to them.
re the turbo, it's even more crucial to make sure the compression check is good, plus making sure you're getting good boost. all things being equal, the turbo engine won't last as the NA engine, but it all depends on how it's been used, serviced, etc. That said, I'd kind of like a turbo, 'cause I'd like a bit more power.
Replacing either the turbo or NA engine is probably going to cost more than the price of the car (!), so you can see why it's so important to know what you're getting. I'm guessing at least $2,000 U.S. to replace an NA engine with a rebuilt, at least $1,000 more U.S. for the turbo. And those estimates are probably on the low side.
Good luck and keep us posted.
around here, a "certified" used car means that it's passed some kind of inspection, but it's used more as marketing hype, since it's the dealer's internal inspection. What's more important is not what they said they inspected, but what they guarantee.
do you have emissions tests and has the car passed? If you have tests and the car doesn't have a sticker, I'd make sure I got the test before I bought the car (since one with severe problems usually won't pass the test)
and they're unlikely to have done a compression check. If they say they have, ask to see the numbers. If you don't see SIX numbers (three for each rotor),
then you know they didn't do it.
Regardless, if you're buying a 14-year-old car, don't expect it to be in flawless condition. I guarantee things will be wrong with it, or will go wrong with it, and you're either going to learn to fix it yourself or pay somebody else. So you might want to think about that before buying am RX-7. These are very nice cars, but there are finicky bits to them.
re the turbo, it's even more crucial to make sure the compression check is good, plus making sure you're getting good boost. all things being equal, the turbo engine won't last as the NA engine, but it all depends on how it's been used, serviced, etc. That said, I'd kind of like a turbo, 'cause I'd like a bit more power.
Replacing either the turbo or NA engine is probably going to cost more than the price of the car (!), so you can see why it's so important to know what you're getting. I'm guessing at least $2,000 U.S. to replace an NA engine with a rebuilt, at least $1,000 more U.S. for the turbo. And those estimates are probably on the low side.
Good luck and keep us posted.
09-01-01, 10:02 AM
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That thing got a Wankel?
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up here in canada fc3s engines are selling for about 2700 + tax from mazda, at least thats what it is going to cost me to replace mine. the car looks like its in good shape. I bought my 86 sport with 249 000 km on the original engine for $2500 and now have 260 000km and she still pulls strong. Good luck
09-01-01, 10:18 AM
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That seems like a pretty good deal if the compression check is good. Um, the RX-7 doesn't really have 4-wheel steering per se, but I won't go into that.
The TII sounds like it's selling for a good price, too, but it will obviously cost you more to maintain than the GXL. If you just want a nice sports car, the the GXL would be better. If you are one of those people who is always trying to tweak as much HP out of your car so that you can race everyone in your neighborhood, then the TII would be better.
Most of the normal problem areas of the 2Gen cars are pretty easy to fix. However, note that the front wheel bearings can cost up to $450 each, so make sure that they are still good. Here is a good site for what to look for:
http://www.aaroncake.net/
The TII sounds like it's selling for a good price, too, but it will obviously cost you more to maintain than the GXL. If you just want a nice sports car, the the GXL would be better. If you are one of those people who is always trying to tweak as much HP out of your car so that you can race everyone in your neighborhood, then the TII would be better.
Most of the normal problem areas of the 2Gen cars are pretty easy to fix. However, note that the front wheel bearings can cost up to $450 each, so make sure that they are still good. Here is a good site for what to look for:
http://www.aaroncake.net/
09-01-01, 04:04 PM
#13
Shake-zula, the mic rulah
I'm still looking for my Turbo II. Hopefully going this week to get one with a j-spec. From what I hear the compression check can be very important when buying a used rx-7. Heres link that I found very useful. Hope it provides some help with your purchase: www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/buying.html
09-01-01, 06:49 PM
#14
Passenger
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I love how the RX7s look and feels, but all these "electrical" and "emissions" buggs and settings it has are really scaring me. Also, Why have I never seen a 7 with more than 220,000-250,000KM on the original engine? I saw an acura yesturday with 367,000 on the original engine, it made me proud, lol.
..so, it's safe to say, that if i buy that 89 RX-7, I should and would expect more problems (bugs) than if I would be buying a (execuse my language..) "normal car"?
I'll have to think about it..
..so, it's safe to say, that if i buy that 89 RX-7, I should and would expect more problems (bugs) than if I would be buying a (execuse my language..) "normal car"?
I'll have to think about it..
09-01-01, 07:33 PM
#15
knowledge junkie
XxDriverxX,
The main advantages of the rotary engine are it's high output compared to it's low weight and smaller size. This lets you make a very light car with perfect 50/50 balance (perfect for curvy roads) and quick 0-60mph times for fast acceleration.
Also, the rotary engine was ment to be revved and can take high revving all day long. Do that in a piston engine all day long - and it will break eventually.
The rx-7 chassis takes 110% advantage of the rotary engine, that's why they're so popular and fun to drive.
The GXL model you have listed is probably the most reliable of the rx-7s. Keep in mind most American cars don't make it 150K miles without needing a new transmission or engine. The GXL needs an engine rebuild between 220-300+K miles. If you find one that has recently had an engine rebuild - congratulations you have 250K miles of engine life left
The only disadvantge is you have to follow the recommended maintenance schedule more religiously with a rotary engine. Piston engines are a bit more tolerant if you don't change the oil every 3000 miles or get a tuneup every 30K miles like your suppose to.
The compression test is a measurement of how the internal engine is doing. Low compression results indicate you should only pay $500-$1500 because you'll probably need an engine rebuild soon.
You'll often see "recently rebuilt", "low engine miles" or "new engine" in the adds for rx-7s. This is an indicator that it probably will have high compression test results and would then be a good buy.
Most people buy an rx-7 for DIRT CHEAP ($500) with a blown engine and replace the engine themselves or pay a slight premium for an rx-7 with a new engine ($2500+) to get good reliability.
I wouln't worry about electrical or emissions stuff too much. If you buy an rx-7 that's been well maintained, is in good to prestine shape, has records, and has low engine miles you're fine.
Getting the "60K mile" service done and fuel injector cleaning when you purchase an rx7 will take care of emmissions.
Yes there are rx-7s will 300K miles on the original engine. It's all about the previous owner and how they drove the car and maintained it - just like with the acuras.
If you define "normal car" as a typical ford, crysler, dodge, GMC, buik, etc... then I'd expect you would have very few problems and minor ones at that in comparison.
It all comes down to what condition the rx-7's in currently, the previous owner, and engine miles.
Now - on to the models of rx-7.
Your 2nd generation rx-7s are divided into 86-88 and 89-92. The 86-88's tend to have slightly longer running engines and the 89-92s tend to have slightly more horsepower.
The GXL you mentioned is the luxury model and has the most reliability in my opinion.
The 89-92 GTU and GTU-S have the cheapest horsepower to dollar ratio and good reliability.
The turbo II models are a supercar but run a slight premium in total cost of ownership (but it's the cheapest supercar I've ever seen - so keep that in mind).
The convertible's are also a very reliable rx-7. If you like convertibles, make sure to get one with a stickshift as the automatics can suck 25% of your power.
Any more questions?
Here's some pictures of the various rx-7 models
The main advantages of the rotary engine are it's high output compared to it's low weight and smaller size. This lets you make a very light car with perfect 50/50 balance (perfect for curvy roads) and quick 0-60mph times for fast acceleration.
Also, the rotary engine was ment to be revved and can take high revving all day long. Do that in a piston engine all day long - and it will break eventually.
The rx-7 chassis takes 110% advantage of the rotary engine, that's why they're so popular and fun to drive.
The GXL model you have listed is probably the most reliable of the rx-7s. Keep in mind most American cars don't make it 150K miles without needing a new transmission or engine. The GXL needs an engine rebuild between 220-300+K miles. If you find one that has recently had an engine rebuild - congratulations you have 250K miles of engine life left
The only disadvantge is you have to follow the recommended maintenance schedule more religiously with a rotary engine. Piston engines are a bit more tolerant if you don't change the oil every 3000 miles or get a tuneup every 30K miles like your suppose to.
The compression test is a measurement of how the internal engine is doing. Low compression results indicate you should only pay $500-$1500 because you'll probably need an engine rebuild soon.
You'll often see "recently rebuilt", "low engine miles" or "new engine" in the adds for rx-7s. This is an indicator that it probably will have high compression test results and would then be a good buy.
Most people buy an rx-7 for DIRT CHEAP ($500) with a blown engine and replace the engine themselves or pay a slight premium for an rx-7 with a new engine ($2500+) to get good reliability.
I wouln't worry about electrical or emissions stuff too much. If you buy an rx-7 that's been well maintained, is in good to prestine shape, has records, and has low engine miles you're fine.
Getting the "60K mile" service done and fuel injector cleaning when you purchase an rx7 will take care of emmissions.
Yes there are rx-7s will 300K miles on the original engine. It's all about the previous owner and how they drove the car and maintained it - just like with the acuras.
If you define "normal car" as a typical ford, crysler, dodge, GMC, buik, etc... then I'd expect you would have very few problems and minor ones at that in comparison.
It all comes down to what condition the rx-7's in currently, the previous owner, and engine miles.
Now - on to the models of rx-7.
Your 2nd generation rx-7s are divided into 86-88 and 89-92. The 86-88's tend to have slightly longer running engines and the 89-92s tend to have slightly more horsepower.
The GXL you mentioned is the luxury model and has the most reliability in my opinion.
The 89-92 GTU and GTU-S have the cheapest horsepower to dollar ratio and good reliability.
The turbo II models are a supercar but run a slight premium in total cost of ownership (but it's the cheapest supercar I've ever seen - so keep that in mind).
The convertible's are also a very reliable rx-7. If you like convertibles, make sure to get one with a stickshift as the automatics can suck 25% of your power.
Any more questions?
Here's some pictures of the various rx-7 models
09-01-01, 08:24 PM
#19
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Hey XxDriverxX.
your original post asked us what to look for (ie problems) in a used RX-7 ... so we told you! That doesn't mean you shouldn't buy one, especially if you think it's a neat car.
All you want to do -- like you would with ANY car -- is make sure that important (ie expensive) stuff is in good shape, especially the engine. I wouldn't buy a piston-engine car without a compression check, making sure all the emissions controls worked, etc.
But name another car from the mid-80s that you'd like to have? Porsche or Bimmer -- OK, but a HELL of a lot more expensive to maintain than an RX-7. Bimmers have great engines, but are famous for obscure parts going bad that have to be shipped from Germany and cost zillions. Plus you can't even reset the effing oil change light without an $80 gadget. Porsche 944 -- same story. Price a rebuilt Porsche engine vs. the rotary.
And the Japanese cars -- fuggedahbout it! All those little high-revving Civics and Integras and Corollas blew up their 16-valve four cylinder engines a long time ago (long before 150,000 miles), and went to the big junkyard in the sky because the cars basically weren't nice enough to bother putting in a new engine. An RX-7 definitely is worth it.
Sure, some of the turbo Supras and the last-generation Nissan Z cars were nice, but they're a hell of a lot more expensive than the RX-7 ... that is, if you can find a good one.
So please don't take these posts as "oh my god, look at all the things that can go wrong with this car." Think of them as friendly guidance on how to find the best RX-7 that you can afford.
Plus, I've gotta say the Web makes a huge difference in having an older enthusiast car, because there is so much fantastic information and advice available from forums like this one. Two of the problems in my BRAND NEW RX7 that I bought in 1986, and that the DEALER couldn't figure out (3,800 rpm hesitation and stalling when cold with a/c on) have been long solved ... and the answers are all here.
Buying any used vehicle involves a certain amount of (rational) risk, and that's why you want to check out the car carefully to detect problems. But you're not risking a whole lot of money. What kind of "newer" used car could you buy for $2,000 US -- maybe some POS 6-year-old Chevy Cavalier with 96,000 miles on the odometer and a dent in the rear fender? Or you could spend $10,000 on some brand new Hyundai that looks like a frog, and which the RX-7 will spank six ways from Sunday.
So if you like the way the RX-7 looks and drives, and if you can find one that checks out, then for God's sake buy it!
Finally, remember this is a Japanese car from the '80s, where their quality was already so good that they almost destroyed the U.S./Canadian auto industry (I remember paying $1,000 OVER STICKER in 1986 for a Mazda 323). The RX-7 ain't a Yugo ...
Good luck and keep us posted. Also, you might tell us how old you are, how many cars you've owned, and what they were. If this is going to be your first car, excellent!
your original post asked us what to look for (ie problems) in a used RX-7 ... so we told you! That doesn't mean you shouldn't buy one, especially if you think it's a neat car.
All you want to do -- like you would with ANY car -- is make sure that important (ie expensive) stuff is in good shape, especially the engine. I wouldn't buy a piston-engine car without a compression check, making sure all the emissions controls worked, etc.
But name another car from the mid-80s that you'd like to have? Porsche or Bimmer -- OK, but a HELL of a lot more expensive to maintain than an RX-7. Bimmers have great engines, but are famous for obscure parts going bad that have to be shipped from Germany and cost zillions. Plus you can't even reset the effing oil change light without an $80 gadget. Porsche 944 -- same story. Price a rebuilt Porsche engine vs. the rotary.
And the Japanese cars -- fuggedahbout it! All those little high-revving Civics and Integras and Corollas blew up their 16-valve four cylinder engines a long time ago (long before 150,000 miles), and went to the big junkyard in the sky because the cars basically weren't nice enough to bother putting in a new engine. An RX-7 definitely is worth it.
Sure, some of the turbo Supras and the last-generation Nissan Z cars were nice, but they're a hell of a lot more expensive than the RX-7 ... that is, if you can find a good one.
So please don't take these posts as "oh my god, look at all the things that can go wrong with this car." Think of them as friendly guidance on how to find the best RX-7 that you can afford.
Plus, I've gotta say the Web makes a huge difference in having an older enthusiast car, because there is so much fantastic information and advice available from forums like this one. Two of the problems in my BRAND NEW RX7 that I bought in 1986, and that the DEALER couldn't figure out (3,800 rpm hesitation and stalling when cold with a/c on) have been long solved ... and the answers are all here.
Buying any used vehicle involves a certain amount of (rational) risk, and that's why you want to check out the car carefully to detect problems. But you're not risking a whole lot of money. What kind of "newer" used car could you buy for $2,000 US -- maybe some POS 6-year-old Chevy Cavalier with 96,000 miles on the odometer and a dent in the rear fender? Or you could spend $10,000 on some brand new Hyundai that looks like a frog, and which the RX-7 will spank six ways from Sunday.
So if you like the way the RX-7 looks and drives, and if you can find one that checks out, then for God's sake buy it!
Finally, remember this is a Japanese car from the '80s, where their quality was already so good that they almost destroyed the U.S./Canadian auto industry (I remember paying $1,000 OVER STICKER in 1986 for a Mazda 323). The RX-7 ain't a Yugo ...
Good luck and keep us posted. Also, you might tell us how old you are, how many cars you've owned, and what they were. If this is going to be your first car, excellent!
09-01-01, 08:48 PM
#20
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Hi guys..
Thankyou all so very much for all this info, it will really prove helpfull when I make up my mind.
The reason i'm so fuggin nervous is cause I'm looking for a first car. I'm 18 now and still have no car, and I'm desperate for a nice looking one. My brother has a 1986 MR2, Amazing car in EVERY sence. He bought it at a steal price with only 50,000KM on the engine and an amazing shape, he had hardly any problem with it only once with the exauhst manifold.. costed him about $1000, thats about 40% of the price he bought the car for. That freaked me out!
Anyways, enough about my bro's car, allthough I'm oppsessed with it, I'd like to have a car of my own. I know it's impossible to have the car without the hassel, but I'd like to have one with the least hassle, being my first car and all.
Looking at all the websites about the RX-7's, they're all complaining about flooding, engine blowing up, electrical problems, complicated emmissions.. I don't know much about cars, so that sorta stuff freaks me out. I don't really wanna go for a Honda or a toyota, I'd want a nice uniqe car (like my bro's Mr2), the closest thing I saw was an RX-7, hardly any in Ottawa, so I fell in love
Here is a question: How much do you guys spend on your second generation RX-7 a year? On average? I'm a student and I have a limit on the cash flow u see
Anyways, thankyou all, you've all been very friendly and usefull.. I'll keep u updated
P.S: vaughnc, God those pics turn me on! Which on of em are 89 GXL NA?
Peace!
Thankyou all so very much for all this info, it will really prove helpfull when I make up my mind.
The reason i'm so fuggin nervous is cause I'm looking for a first car. I'm 18 now and still have no car, and I'm desperate for a nice looking one. My brother has a 1986 MR2, Amazing car in EVERY sence. He bought it at a steal price with only 50,000KM on the engine and an amazing shape, he had hardly any problem with it only once with the exauhst manifold.. costed him about $1000, thats about 40% of the price he bought the car for. That freaked me out!
Anyways, enough about my bro's car, allthough I'm oppsessed with it, I'd like to have a car of my own. I know it's impossible to have the car without the hassel, but I'd like to have one with the least hassle, being my first car and all.
Looking at all the websites about the RX-7's, they're all complaining about flooding, engine blowing up, electrical problems, complicated emmissions.. I don't know much about cars, so that sorta stuff freaks me out. I don't really wanna go for a Honda or a toyota, I'd want a nice uniqe car (like my bro's Mr2), the closest thing I saw was an RX-7, hardly any in Ottawa, so I fell in love
Here is a question: How much do you guys spend on your second generation RX-7 a year? On average? I'm a student and I have a limit on the cash flow u see
Anyways, thankyou all, you've all been very friendly and usefull.. I'll keep u updated
P.S: vaughnc, God those pics turn me on! Which on of em are 89 GXL NA?
Peace!
09-01-01, 09:12 PM
#21
Epitrochoid Knight/Mod
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Perth Amboy, Jersey and Pensacola, Florida
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This is my personal rx-7
1992 RX-7 Turbo II
1992 RX-7 Turbo II
09-01-01, 11:40 PM
#22
knowledge junkie
SirRX7,
Only difference is the VIN # between 92 and 91. They both were made in the same year.
XxDriverxX,
When I was 18 I was driving an 89' Honda Accord. Reliable yes, above average fuel economy yes, cheap to maintain yes, cheap to get into - NO!!! it cost me $7500 to buy, fun to drive - NO!! IT WAS THE MOST BORING CAR I've ever owned. It would make a good college car though. Allot of students drive hondas, saturns, old BMWs, etc... passed down or purchased that have extra reliability built in but no much on the fun factor
Then again allot of students drive the cheapest car they can find and an rx-7 sure is up there
Yes the prelude, honda accord ex 2 door coupe, and integras are fun to drive - but the cost of buying one used is high. For some reason used mazdas seem to have the best mix of extra low sticker price, reliability, seat of your pants ride (zoom zoom zoom), and large community of owners.
The GXL rx-7 probably has the best mix of low entry costs, reliability, practicality, and fun to drive. Don't remember, but think there is a stickshift model and that would be the one I'd recommend. It would make a good 1st car in my opinion.
Keep in mind 75% of the people on this BB and other websites complaining are only 5% of the total rx-7 population. Not too many people post "hey my rx-7s really doing great right now."
Here's some pics of the 86-88 GXLs.
Only difference is the VIN # between 92 and 91. They both were made in the same year.
XxDriverxX,
When I was 18 I was driving an 89' Honda Accord. Reliable yes, above average fuel economy yes, cheap to maintain yes, cheap to get into - NO!!! it cost me $7500 to buy, fun to drive - NO!! IT WAS THE MOST BORING CAR I've ever owned. It would make a good college car though. Allot of students drive hondas, saturns, old BMWs, etc... passed down or purchased that have extra reliability built in but no much on the fun factor
Then again allot of students drive the cheapest car they can find and an rx-7 sure is up there
Yes the prelude, honda accord ex 2 door coupe, and integras are fun to drive - but the cost of buying one used is high. For some reason used mazdas seem to have the best mix of extra low sticker price, reliability, seat of your pants ride (zoom zoom zoom), and large community of owners.
The GXL rx-7 probably has the best mix of low entry costs, reliability, practicality, and fun to drive. Don't remember, but think there is a stickshift model and that would be the one I'd recommend. It would make a good 1st car in my opinion.
Keep in mind 75% of the people on this BB and other websites complaining are only 5% of the total rx-7 population. Not too many people post "hey my rx-7s really doing great right now."
Here's some pics of the 86-88 GXLs.
09-02-01, 12:22 AM
#24
Passenger
Posts: n/a
ohh! Thats what the seats look like! lol, cool! Yeah and the one I have my eyes on has stick shift.. I wanna go see it with someone who has good knowledge in cars, the closest person is my bro, but he's wroking 24/7. (These seats go IN? lol! good, my friends would think twice before asking me to take em home: )
I'll keep ya all updated, thanks again
Peace
I'll keep ya all updated, thanks again
Peace
09-02-01, 12:38 AM
#25
Full Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: seattle, wa, usa
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Man... those back seats don't even look like seats. lol ^_^ I'll post pictures of my 88 GXL when I get it back from the shop. *Getting its spoiler put on. I've done some other mods on there so it's not exactly stock ^_- It's one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of projects. I've worked on lawnmowers, motorcycles, a few other cars *Integra, Civic, etc.., and now finally Rx7. I believe the Rx7 is the only project I've ever had where I truly would mind a lot selling it. Well, good luck in purchasing your dream vehicle!
Peace,
AJ ^_^
Peace,
AJ ^_^