RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

here is a breakdown of engine rebuild pricing for most applicable engine builds;

basic rebuild:(includes new oil control o-rings, atkins 2mm apex seals, new OEM apex seal springs, new OEM 3rd gen corner seal springs, new side seal springs, new corner seal plugs, new coolant seals, new dowel pin o-rings, new tension bolt washers, new timing cover gasket, new oil pickup tube gasket, new front/rear main shaft seals and new front cover oil galley o-ring):

FB/SA/REPU
$1300(keep in mind rotor housings are basically nonexistent for the FB/SA anymore so a rebuild is contingent to the condition of your core engine, REPU can use standard 13B rotor housings but they will have enlarged exhaust ports over stock.)

series 4
non turbo - $1350
turbo - $1450

series 5
non turbo - $1400
turbo - $1500

series 6
twin turbo - $1550

----addons----

portwork:

streetporting

series 4/5 non turbo - $250
series 4/5/6 turbo - $285

half bridgeporting(secondaries)

series 4/5 non turbo - $350
series 4/5/6 turbo - $325

full bridgeporting(primary and secondary)

series 4/5 non turbo - $450
series 4/5/6 turbo - $425

peripheral porting

$ varies, ask for an estimate



rotor milling to 3mm seal slot

all series - $150 per rotor


seal upgrades(these prices are ONLY in addition to basic rebuild costs, these are not to purchase seals and rotors induvidually from me)

3mm ALS seal upgrade

all series - $600 includes rotor milling

3mm OEM seal upgrade

all series - $550 includes rotor milling

3mm RA super seal upgrade

all series - $425 includes rotor milling


4 stud 13B engine pinning(dowel pinning)

all series - $375 (includes new pins and longer tension bolts)


iron face lapping

$70 per iron face, all series engines

bearing replacements

rotor bearings - $60 per rotor, includes FD rotor bearing and labor to remove and install

stat gear bearings - $70 per stat gear, includes FD 3 window bearing and labor to remove and install

aluminum polishing

price is dependent on what part is to be polished and its complexity to getting a buffer into difficult areas. rotor housings for example are rather easy but large and cost $85 per housing to polish.


core engine parts (these are needed in cases where your core engine is damaged with a dead rotor/housing/iron/etc)

the price of core parts is dependent to their condition, a 5/10 rating part will cost approximately 10% of new price where a 9/10 condition part will cost roughly 30% of new price. most used parts are in 6-8/10 rating range, i generally strongly advise against using any parts in the 5/10 range or lower because they are worn to maximum allowable limits, a 9/10 part will appear virtually new but obviously is used so it drops in rating from a 10/10 which is a brand new part.

giving you a rough idea, say you have a dead rotor in your series 6 engine and it needs a rotor and housing, using average rating parts of ~7/10 rating a used rotor housing will cost you about $150 and rotor close to the same for an additional cost of $300 in total for a good condition 1/4 of your engine. series 4/5 turbo/non turbo parts are slightly less and non turbo series 4 parts are the cheapest as they are the most commonly available so i drop the price accordingly.

if you want an engine built and do not have a core the price will depend greatly on the series and condition of the core engine i am supplying. i cannot list all the possibile differences here on this subject and it will vary depending on my current inventory. i am probably the most reasonable at core price for engines of most builders so don't be afraid to ask but i may not have enough core parts on hand to even offer this service all the time for various motors.

deposit

i do require a deposit on all basic engine rebuilds which cover the cost of parts, this charge is $500 for basic rebuilds. addons will bring the deposit price of the engine up depending on how many part addons are involved. i do this because it is very difficult to sell a pre-built engine without taking a loss, this ensures that you the customer have a binding interest in paying in full for your engine.

if you do not pick up the engine within 2 months after completion it will be sold(at least let me know if you are having a hardship, 2 months is if i have 0 correspondence from you about your motor) and the loss from sale off of invoice price will be deducted from your deposit and refunded to you(you may get it all back but that depends on what series core motor it is. FDs for example have the highest engine core cost which is included in the sale price, this can negatively impact the sale price quite a bit or bring it up a bit, either way the more expensive the build is the more difficult it is to sell).

shipping

i can ship and recieve engines. cost of shipping will vary somewhat but i use international shipping company Forward Air which has depots in most major cities. cost of shipping to a depot usually ranges from $90-150. if you have a business address you can recieve at they can also deliver there as well but the price can go up exponentially depending on how far you are from their closes depot, you can call and ask for an estimate:

http://forwardair.com/

crate size is: 36"X36"X36" weight is approximately 210lbs

shipping location:

Rotary Evolution
4375 West Reno Ave. Suite #6
Las Vegas, NV, 89118

cost of building you a crate if you do not supply a core engine to build is $85($35 of that is for materials..)

PM me if you have a question that is not covered in this thread. in most cases an engine can be rebuilt at or near the basic rebuild price, unless the engine has been severely abused, is blown(low or 0 compression on one or both rotors) or has very high mileage. DO NOT LET YOUR ENGINE SIT WITH WATER IN IT IF YOU HAVE A FAILED COOLANT SEAL, IN MOST CASES IF I CAN EVEN SALVAGE THE PARTS I CHARGE AT MINIMUM $250 TO TRY TO SALVAGE YOUR PARTS). drain the block, rotate the engine to get all water out of the chambers, add some sort of oil to the chambers and rotate the engine again and seal up the intake and exhaust ports to store it properly.

(since i have not heard back on where to list this advert i am just placing it here, any mod can move it where you feel it belongs and let me know the results of where listing such as this belong.)

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the engines are also painted in whatever color scheme you wish which is free of charge, that is for simple high temp engine paint. i'm still working on getting powder coating process and materials together but i can send them out to be powder coated also for an additional charge, if you want a more durable engine finish. also working on anodizing aluminum in the near future for those interested in anodized factory parts(also not going to be free, sorry).

here is 2 engines with polishing(see additional charges), the first pic i did not polish though, second is my polishing(looks dull in some areas only because of the flash angle from the camera).





the basic color scheme is black irons/pan and aluminum color painted housings and front cover which i will upload more pics tonight from my home computer.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

here is a pic of what most general rebuilds look like with the aluminum/black default color scheme(with the timing cover of course but i keep forgetting to upload pics from home):




UPDATE!: as of tomorrow almost all prices will be raised approximately 15%, i will honor any previous quotes up until midnight tonight, after that the prices will be revised. so those who get a quote for a rebuild and have deposits in within the next 3 weeks will recieve current pricing, simply getting a quote won't hold the current price indefinitely.

RXILVER7

iTrader: (2)

I don't mean to thread jack or anything, but do you also do 13B-MSP rebuilds?

SpitfireEMT

Any chance you would be willing to do just port work and lap the side housings?

prime

If yer gonna have him take it apart, you might as well have him rebuild it to man. Especially if you want it bridgeported...I can seem a boom in the future. Though I'm one to talk, I'm planning on doing pretty much the same thing.

SpitfireEMT

I am already gonna have it apart. Its my rebuild motor for class, I would rather have someone who knows what they are doing with the housings do the port work as opposed to me effing my hard parts.

prime

I can understand the thought process dude, but the way I look at it. I like drifting, and I'm probably not going to stop anytime soon. So I might as well figure out how to port my own engines, I'll probably blow up a few anyways. Plus, useful marketable skillset.

On the other hand, I have steady hands, and I feel fairly confident that I can port my engine without botching the hell out of it. Might be a tad ambitious starting with a bridgeport, but my N/A is gutless and I don't have to ten grand to spend on extensive turbo upgrades and tuning. And when I do, having it pre-bridgeported will be a good base.

SpitfireEMT

Yeah, I talked to a guy at work, he is gonna send me about 100lb of damaged tool steel blocks to practice on, a little hard, but it will do.

prime

Thats gonna kill that **** out of your grinder bits. But yeah, practice is valuable. I plan to just practice on the guides I'll be buying, either from pineapple racing, or racing beat. Not sure which yet, but it'll work out either way. Looks like my greatest expensive is gonna be the need for a Tunable EFI n Stand Alone Computer Management. But, I'll need to same for a turbo anyways, so it just adds to it being a good start point.

jemfrap

good prices especially on the turbo.