V8 swap FB suspension options
#1
V8 swap FB suspension options
I was wondering what kind of suspension some of you heavier alternate engine guys are running. To me the stock spring rates of the FB have been even too low for stock engines, let alone an additional 100lbs on the front of the car. I was considering running a set of Koni race shocks front and rear, and maybe in the range of 350lb/in front and 200lb/in rear on the springs. Does this sound reasonable? This is completely foreign to me. My much lighter Miata has a moderate suspension upgrade and has springs nearly twice that of even the RB springs for the FB, which are 20% stiffer than stock. Just seems low all the way around, and no two cars are the same... any help is appreciated.
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I was wondering what kind of suspension some of you heavier alternate engine guys are running. To me the stock spring rates of the FB have been even too low for stock engines, let alone an additional 100lbs on the front of the car. I was considering running a set of Koni race shocks front and rear, and maybe in the range of 350lb/in front and 200lb/in rear on the springs. Does this sound reasonable? This is completely foreign to me. My much lighter Miata has a moderate suspension upgrade and has springs nearly twice that of even the RB springs for the FB, which are 20% stiffer than stock. Just seems low all the way around, and no two cars are the same... any help is appreciated.
(since you mentioned miatas) My turbo miata (97) runs 450F 300R with custom revalved bilsteins and that car is PERFECT. Stiff, no roll, but pliable and pleasant to drive (I largely credit the shocks for this). The wife drives it daily and loves how it rides.
To give you an idea of what spring rates are like on FB's, I expect my FB to be at least as stiff, maybe slightly more harsh than the miata with the rates quoted. Common knowledge suggests you get a lot out of spring rates on the FB. (more stiffness per lb increase compared to some cars).
#3
The design on the suspension influences spring rates heavily. I think 350F 200R is a great choice. I'm going to run 325F 200R (TII swap), and honestly with all my doo-dads up front the v8 is not much heavier.
(since you mentioned miatas) My turbo miata (97) runs 450F 300R with custom revalved bilsteins and that car is PERFECT. Stiff, no roll, but pliable and pleasant to drive (I largely credit the shocks for this). The wife drives it daily and loves how it rides.
To give you an idea of what spring rates are like on FB's, I expect my FB to be at least as stiff, maybe slightly more harsh than the miata with the rates quoted. Common knowledge suggests you get a lot out of spring rates on the FB. (more stiffness per lb increase compared to some cars).
(since you mentioned miatas) My turbo miata (97) runs 450F 300R with custom revalved bilsteins and that car is PERFECT. Stiff, no roll, but pliable and pleasant to drive (I largely credit the shocks for this). The wife drives it daily and loves how it rides.
To give you an idea of what spring rates are like on FB's, I expect my FB to be at least as stiff, maybe slightly more harsh than the miata with the rates quoted. Common knowledge suggests you get a lot out of spring rates on the FB. (more stiffness per lb increase compared to some cars).
Thanks for the help.
#4
I wonder if the ReSpeed rear "coilover" collars will fit on the Ford 8.8 rear. It's fabricated to accept stock springs, so I don't see why not, unless something other than the diameter would keep them from fittings. I'm trying to figure out exactly what I want to run. Pretty sure I'm set on Ground Control camber plates, Tokico Illumina shocks, ReSpeed front coilover kit, and 350in/lb 2.5'' springs. Rear, if I can make it fit, will be the rear coilover kit with the 200in/lb springs and again, Illumina shocks. Also, the ReSpeed front comp sway bar, and no rear bar. Should work for my plans and goal, just your everyday V8 RX7 used mostly as a weekend fun car and maybe every once in a blue moon, the track.
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yes, I asked grant about it for mine and yes it works. I already have the parts at home waiting for me. I got tokikos adjustable spring kits on front and back, respeed v8 swaybar, and ordering camber plates soon, I also have the crossmember kit from them with the 15-1 steering rack, as well as big brake upgrade on all corners. be sure to tell grannys that you want to use turbo2 brakes on that rear axle and that will save you about $100 when you get the big brake kit from respeed.
#6
yes, I asked grant about it for mine and yes it works. I already have the parts at home waiting for me. I got tokikos adjustable spring kits on front and back, respeed v8 swaybar, and ordering camber plates soon, I also have the crossmember kit from them with the 15-1 steering rack, as well as big brake upgrade on all corners. be sure to tell grannys that you want to use turbo2 brakes on that rear axle and that will save you about $100 when you get the big brake kit from respeed.
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About your miata, look up Stewart Developments. He revalves OE Bilsteins for about $75 a piece.
His work is phenomenal, make sure you talk to him about wait time as I think the ENTIRE miata world has their shocks in ahead of you!
His work is phenomenal, make sure you talk to him about wait time as I think the ENTIRE miata world has their shocks in ahead of you!
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#8
Yeah, I know about Stewart. I just stopped caring about my Miata like that for now, since it's my only daily driver. Too many other things I'd like to fix on it before I worry about suspension again. One day when I get a decent daily, I will actually do as I intended 3-4 years ago when I got it, which was to do a turbo build as a track car. Strip it, cage it, boost it.
#9
This is my first time working on any FB suspension, and I must say... what a pain in the ***! The front suspension is like a puzzle. So many bolts with brackets in the way, and then the bolts for that bracket have another bracket in their way. Couldn't get a pull bar and socket on the bottom bolts for the shock tube assembly to unbolt the lower control arm... just a mess. All I wanted was to get the rotors off.
I was surprised to find the brake parts looked to be in good shape. I knew the previous owner did some upgrades to the springs (Racing Beat) but it seems he also did a good job with painting the calipers red, so they are rust free, they also have stainless braided lines and what looks like decent pads. Even the rotors were somehow mostly rust free after sitting for over a decade. Seems I can reuse everything up front. Just put on the camber plates, install the Illumina shocks and springs, probably new bushings, sway bar and new steering linkages, since all of the boots are blown and the joints are dry and rusty, and call it a day.
I was surprised to find the brake parts looked to be in good shape. I knew the previous owner did some upgrades to the springs (Racing Beat) but it seems he also did a good job with painting the calipers red, so they are rust free, they also have stainless braided lines and what looks like decent pads. Even the rotors were somehow mostly rust free after sitting for over a decade. Seems I can reuse everything up front. Just put on the camber plates, install the Illumina shocks and springs, probably new bushings, sway bar and new steering linkages, since all of the boots are blown and the joints are dry and rusty, and call it a day.
#11
I realize now my wording was tricky. I didn't mean I had just put on those parts, I meant those parts are all I have to replace, when the time comes, which will be soon. I will order my adapters next week, and after that I will start buying the rest of the suspension parts for the front. Should have it all installed within 2 months.
#12
I think I will go the T2 route in the rear. I was just looking on ReSpeed and noticed the T2 front conversion kit for big bearing 84-85 models. That would allow me to avoid using an adapter for lug pattern, and would be easier than tracking down SE parts. Will T2 calipers with this kit fit in 15" wheels? Seeing as stock T2 are 16" if I recall correctly, they may not fit, which puts me back at square one.
Never mind. I just remmbered the T2 was 5 lug... dammit!!!
Never mind. I just remmbered the T2 was 5 lug... dammit!!!
#13
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You can use tII brakes with 4 lug. Use 4 lug hubs. Everything should bolt right up (assuming using the gsl-se pattern) and then you just give your rotors to a machinist and he drills holes to suit.
Easy day.
Easy day.
#18
I may just have to stick with my original hub adapter plans, and run a 3/4'' thick adapter between the front hubs and wheels. I don't suppose it will be so bad being on the front. If it were the rear I would be scared of the power of the 302 causing a shear failure, but the front is just going to be loaded with lateral forces, so maybe not quite as stressful.
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the front sees more stress than the rear with most setups. just keep it stock up front for now until you can afford the #200 to do the t2 upgrade. I got mine used on here for real cheap so keep an eye out for good sell offs.
#20
I can afford it, I just hate the hassle of tracking down used parts. I can get everything else I need new, it's not that costly, but finding T2 or 4 lug hubs new or used I can't seem to find easily. Again my question is, is everything else between 4 lug and 5 lug the same? Are the rotors the same diameter, and do they have the same backspacing to the hub (would they line up with the calipers correctly)? Does the 4 lug hub even fit the spindle? I would just go all T2 stuff, but I just bought the 4 lug wheels, so that's out of the question. Figuring out what parts I can mix and match between 4 and 5 lug is what is keeping me unsure about this route. I would need 4 lug parts, but the Re kit is designed for 5 lug parts.
So correct me if I'm wrong here. I know people do 4 to 5 lug conversions on FC's, so it would seem that everything in terms of spacing is the same. You can put the 5 lug hubs, rotors and calipers on the same spindle with the same caliper brackets, so spacing there is correct. So wouldn't it make sense that 4 lug parts should work with the 5 lug ReSpeed kit? If I can just track down a set of used 4 lug hubs. OEM new are something like $600 each.
So correct me if I'm wrong here. I know people do 4 to 5 lug conversions on FC's, so it would seem that everything in terms of spacing is the same. You can put the 5 lug hubs, rotors and calipers on the same spindle with the same caliper brackets, so spacing there is correct. So wouldn't it make sense that 4 lug parts should work with the 5 lug ReSpeed kit? If I can just track down a set of used 4 lug hubs. OEM new are something like $600 each.
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