FD3SR1

Well I just blew my single turbo setup so its on to bigger and better things.

I was wondering what all has to be done to do the ls1 swap and what kind of cost i should be looking at? Also what is a fair price to pay for a ls1 and a t56 tranny? I have already read some information off hinsonsupercars.com. And is there anything else i should know about the swap before attemping it?
thanks in advance
--Arron

Nihilanthic

LS1/T-56 pullouts go between 2.5K and 5K depending on where you get it. Shop around.

The kits for the subframe/mount/blablabla are ognna be like a grand more on top of that, not quite sure (Im doing it into a FC which is muy cheaper) and uh... other **** can add up too.

Finally, youre going to need to wire all the ****, prolly get a bigger radiator (unless the one you have for the single turbo setup is good enough, which it probably is if your 13b was making any power as they run pretty hot...) and uuhhh get a new driveshaft cut/and balanced with the yoke for the T-56.

Id say it could be done for 5K or less if you source your stuff right and do the work yourself. If it takes other people doing it then labor will be big bucks. Honestly tho, the FD chassis is the most expensive ingredient in that combination of awesomeness

Two websites that actually sell the **** are www.grannysspeedshop.com and http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/

Out of the box, LS1s put down about 300 to the wheels, but this is with right now torque and responce, and some GREAT gas mileage - and 6 speeds. You'll love the change of power delivery and the utter unchange in handling. N/A mods for a LS1 can put it into very high power ranges quickly, long tube headers and a cam have broken the 400 whp mark and then some, and forced induction on any v8 is just icing on one delicious cake. Why not try a procharger... everyone seems to get a kick out of peaky power delivery, and with the smallest v8 you could possibly use Being a 302 or a 5300 iron block LS1, youd have all the torque youd EVER need at low rpms.

And, finally, you might want to change the little signature in your posts... or do a turbo v8 (of any sort, LS1 or whatever... lol) and have a supra without the lag.

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

www.torquecentral.com has more information about the swap then you'll ever need in the V8/RX7 section.

FD3SR1

lol ya. what about ecu and the harness where iare good places to get those? do most people use the stock ecu or go after market? Also how hard is wireing eveything up?

FD3SR1

thanks for the info and links too.

wingsfan

Get the harness and ecu with your drivetrain pullout.

Stick with the GM PCM and software. It'll give you about the same level of control as a Power FC, just no real time adjustment.

Wiring is straightforward. If you can install a stereo you can wire an LS1.

FD3SR1

that easy? well i guesse ill be doing this one in my garage.

what did you guys pay for you motors/trannys ect. and how many miles? if you dont mind me asking that is.

wingsfan

Yes. People make a big deal out of it because there are so many wires in the harness and PCM. In reality there are only ~20 wires to connect. If you can read the factory wiring diagrams it's no big deal.

I paid $4500 for a motor/tranny/harness/PCM pullout back in 2003. You'll have to keep your eyes open if you want a deal. 2001+ motors are preferable, but not essential. Stay away from the 98s as they'll just cause you headaches at every turn.

You're not going to do the swap for $5K like Nihilanthic thinks you could without a significant amount of luck. Selling your single setup and 13brew drivetrain will definitely help. And you probably have already upgraded the fuel system. Still, the little things here and there will bite you.

FD3SR1

Well i figure hinson wants 8,100 for a turn key setup and im sure they are making good profit off of labor so i estamate 6-7k if i do it myself. does that sound reasonable? or do you guy have more then that into your setups?

Mdessouki

iTrader: (7)

yes you could do it for 6-7k if you do it yourself, but that will not include the price of the motor. "Base building costs start at $8,150 + LS1 drive-line." I paid 3.5k for a 2002 w/ 34k. It was a good deal but not great. It did not include the maf, clutch, or clutch line. Make sure you get everything because these little parts will kill your final cost estimate. If I remeber correctly Hinson sells 2002 low milage pullouts for 4.5k. Not a bad deal if complete, but not great. Mike

FD3SR1

I was thinking 3-4k on a motor tranny and ecu plus 1400 for the k member and kit then fuel upgrades 700- 1k cooling mods i have that covered and say 500-1k in ods and end. What else am i missing other then my labor?

Nihilanthic

Well, one thing Id ask is what radiator do you have now? How much power were you putting down before? If it could cool off a hot 13b with a single blowing through it, it could probably handle a LS1, at least at stock or near stock power levels.

Also, Im not totally sure about the FDs fuel system being sufficient for a LS1 - then again, if the power levels of your single were near or above that of a LS1 stock and you havent modded it yet, you prolly would just need a FPR.

Mdessouki

iTrader: (7)

I sold my rotary related parts for roughly 6.5k. I spent that a long time ago and still aint finished spending. Stuff just seems to add up. Nothing special about the swap other than coilovers, links, arms, and a 99 front (2k for it all). Im well over 10k so far, probably arround 12k. I honestly dont see where but all the little $50-100 things add up quick.

FD3SR1

how much do you other guys have into your swaps?

wingsfan

For some of us that's like asking a woman her age.

I'll have ~$30K-$35K into mine + the original price of the car. Jimlab will have $100K+ into his. Neither of our swaps are indicative of what most people will tackle.

Figure it will run you roughly $10K to do the base swap, and then start subtracting whatever you can recoup from your rotary drivetrain, etc. Add more for headers, heads, upgrade intakes, nitrous , etc.

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

since you blew the motor how about giving it to me. I need something to take apart, the garage doesnt have any blown engines in it

FD3SR1

WOW! what in the hell is done to jimlab's car? also what mods do you have in yours?

wingsfan

Everything.

Too many to list.

I'll be dropping in an LS7 bottom end, complete with a dry sump oiling system, custom heads, headers, and a Harrop ITB intake setup.

I've also upgraded the suspension, tires, wheels, it'll get new paint, etc.

**** adds up fast.

My base swap cost me about $12K (with the coilovers, tires, and wheels) and ran without any problems for a year. It's when you start getting greedy for extra HP that it starts to get expensive.

FD3SR1

it only ran for a year? what happend?

wingsfan

Nothing. It was making ~390rwhp after I ironed out all the little bugs. I got bored with the power it was making and decided to turbo charge it...several aborted attempts at packaging the turbo has lead me to building a stroker motor/ITB setup. I could have (still could) just added heads and longtubes like anyone else and have been done with it.

Here's the ITB intake.




I'm taking advantage of the downtime to go back and take care of all the things I halfassed my first time around. That means a new engine cradle (via Jimlab), bolting in a Cobra rear end, trimming all the wiring I don't need, adding a standalone, adapting a dry sump, etc. So just a few things.

FD3SR1

just wondering how much do ls1 rx7 usally go for used?

wingsfan

$20K-$25K depending on condition and modification. Most will fall into the $20K-$22K range. Tere've been a few that sold in the high teens. Most of those were stock swaps that needed some TLC.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

My best advice is to buy a complete pullout. Be patient but also willing to shell out for what you want. I have undertaken a 2003 LS6 swap and the little parts here and there are really adding up. I purchased a bare longblock and now I'm stuck sourcing every bolt bracket and and assembly known to man.

Search for a t56 with upgraded sychros and steel forks.

Try to buy parts in pairs ie if you plan on doing a used LS6 intake on your LS1, try to search for someone selling an intake with a TB included, this will usually save you a lot of money because people are for one reason or another willing to sell things cheaper when assembled in groups.

Same thing goes for the t56, you can get yourself a nice clutch, 5.0 shifter, flywheel aftermarket MC much cheaper by purchasing an assembly as apposed to sourcing out all of the individual components.

You should plan on upgrading the rear (diff and axles) diff bushings and trailing arms. Some don't believe this but I think they're asking for problems.

I started this link a while back to help people beginning the swap: http://www.torquecentral.com/showthread.php?t=30439

-Rob

FD3SR1

thanks for the link. that gives me a much better idea on what all the swap involves.

As far as the stock wiring harness and all of the fuse/relay panals in the engine bay and behind the dash what was removed and what was left?

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

Just to give you a little more interest in doing the transplant....

I went 11.45@126.4mph today on 91 octane.

This was on a stock '99 LS1 30K shortblock with upgraded Katech rod bolts ($150) (spins to 7100), milled AFR 205 heads (10.7.1 approx) $2.2K, LS6 intake $325, ported stock TB $65, TSP 233/239 112LSA cam $350, 1 7/8" JTR LT headers $850, dual 3" with cats/Xpipe, T56, and 6 year old Nitto 245/50/16 DR's, 2950lbs with driver.

I don't 60' well (1.90 only) due to road race suspension and the old Nittos.... but was pretty much the fastest street car there that is truly daily driven. A '91 Mustang hatch garage queen with 331ci stroker, S-trim supercharger, ported heads, Trickflow intake, long tube headers, dual 3" without cats went 11.30's@128mph. Shows you how strong the LS1 can be with upgraded cam/heads and probably 1/2 the money into it than this Ford setup.

Over winter I plan to shoot a NX150hp shot and try to dip into the 9's with a new drag tire package I bought on road race suspension.

Torquecentral.com in the V8RX7 section is the place to search for your answers. The wiring with searching can be figured out, you need to pop the firewall above the transmission area with a 5lb minisledge to clear the MAP sensor on the LS1. Aside from that the engine is a drop in with the Hinson kit. Reinforce the mounting tabs where the transmission mount attaches to and you will be good to go.

I have about $24K in my swap which includes the motor/trans setup listed above, the FD, 18x10.5" CCW's, coilovers, JimLab bushings, '99 RZ front bumper, M2 links, 13" AP brakes, '99 RZ rear brakes and doing 99% of the work myself. Most of my parts were bought used and that saves a ton.

My recommendation is to buy a complete '99+ engine/trans with everything. As others have said you can nickeled and dimed for parts quickly. Then add 20% on top of the number you figure the swap will cost you as little things will be overlooked (ie underdrive pulley, tchain, upgraded oil pump, upgraded rear LSD, etc.)

-Mark