I drive like an ******* on streets. I wonder if I will need completely custom manifolds to turbo this thing. I am definitely going this route. Barry, we need to get up again at some point and I would like to see this thing installed. Also can you give me a call, 252.363.4943 because I seemed to lose your number. I never saved it to memory.

 

Wow that suprises me ...everything else is legal in Tenn,fireworks and all. learn something everyday. I dont drive like a *** either just use it on road trips when passing etc etc.

 

im sorry if this has been said, but ive searched your thread to no avail, why not use the tranny that comes with the engine? Im assuming it doesnt come with a manual as to why you want to swap the tranny, but could you theoretically use the stock ECU with the auto tranny it comes with? If you could, it would be a lot easier and cheaper just to go that route.

 

It doesn't come with a manual.

I think you may be able to use the auto with the stock ECU, but I'm almost sure that you can't use the stock ECU without the auto.

 

well, one I dont like autos. Two I wanted a clutch, and 5 or 6 gears. Yeah i could use the stock ECU manual shift and all that jazz but, I want a manual and a standalone so no to the auto and stock ECU.

 

A LEXUS V8 IN A RX7?!?! sacrilege! o wait, nevermind, that was the old me. looks like it is coming along nicely, bro. much more exciting that my LS1 swap.

 

Well, keep up the good work. I'm watching this closely while I work on my 1UZ/'63 Comet project (which is stopped for the moment while I build a new, larger garage to do the work in).

I just have to get a flywheel/clutch setup before bolting the Supra 5 speed to the engine. The adaptor I got is a nice bit of work.

 

ok, so I went to crank my engine over to see if I was getting oil pressure and low and behold my engine only wanted to make a about 180 degrees of revolution be for halting to a stop. So I decided that I would not try to force it and maybe break a ringland, but my guess was a ring of rust in the cylinder causing it to stop a piston. After taking the heads off I notice a couple of the cylinders contained small amounts off rust, but it was the number 6 cylinder that had a noticable amount of rust that actually stopped the motor from turning. So after a nice massage from some steel wool the cylinder was freed; and then sprayed with some wd-40 to prevent more rust.

But with the heads off it gave me an oppurtunity to port match the heads and deshroud the valve area a little. This also gives me a reason/chance to get some new high compression pistones for my NA build. Also with no ratating assembly in the block I will be able to hone the block and even make it easier to mount it in the bay.

But here are some pictures for the ones with A.D.D











New pistons coming soon!

 

That block looks mysteriously similar to the 4.6 dohc ford. Those heads look great, same design as the SHO engine combustion chamber it seems, the so-called "pent-roof" 4 valve arrangement.

 

Sleeve that bitch, bore it out to 97mm or so, and throw some oversized Supra valves in it!

 

hell when i saw one of the first pictures i thought it was a DOHC 4.6 for a sec, LOL.

 

I guess Ford copied a good engine

It is already sleeved, but I think I am going to stay same bore size for a while seeing as money isn't exactly flowinf right now.

 

Make sure you have a machine shop check those cylinders well, rust in the liners can be a real problem.

 

Yeah, I know it's got sleeves, but those aren't big enough to bore out that big. There's still a lot of space though for some aftermarket sleeves.

 

it was just surface rust, not like cancerous or anything. I would be concerned if it left a visable scoring or craters.

OH yeah there is, But biggest I think I'll ever go with this motor is 4.6L

 

If it was enough to stop you from turning the engine over, it likely pitted the walls. A heavy hone is going to be necessary at the very least to resolve that, but without checking you won't know.

If you don't do it right the first time, it'll cost more money. Not trying to to be an *** here, just offer some good advice.

 

dude this thing looks sweet. I keep dreaming about it. I will have your bucket done soon. Money got extremely tight and I got locked out of my shed. Peeps are helping and I will be back on my feet soon.

 

I know where you are coming from, and I appreciate the advice. I will double check that the walls are not pitted, and if so whats a little more money? I will most likely ignore the problem until I get my mounts better scienced and find out what works best for repeatability and hopefully a kit for those interested.

 

You should be able to go 1mm over on the bore with the stock sleeves. I know .5mm is definitely possible. I don't think the thin part of the sleeve is really that high to where it's part of the "combustion container" (for complete and utter lack of a better term) to make 1mm over a problem.

Only mentioning this in case you need to bore out the rust, but I doubt it'll be a problem.

 

I'd just hone it off, measure the bore, measure the pistons, consult the factory overhaul tolerance if it is within the spec, get new rings, bearings, gaskets and seals and have some fun.

 

Typical shop rate around here would run 100-150 bucks to check the cylinder walls, but shop rates vary dramatically from one locale to the next, and I'm pretty friendly with most of the shops in town, so YMMV.

It's something I'd have done just for peace of mind, but to me a couple hundred dollars is worth the peace of mind; same reason I have braided lines and AN fittings throughout my fuel system; rubber works fine, but I want the peace of mind. If you're fine with it as is, it'll probably run fine, and even if it was a little pitted, it should still run, just not as well as a proper spec'd motor will. Definitely put a good hone on it regardless.

 

hehe, sorry I couldn't help but to use the h0Wned title.

OK so I honed the cylinders with a 220 grit and it looks fairly decent except I am just not happy with it. I used my .002" feeler gauge to see if any of the "pits" and "grooves" would catch but they didn't yet I can still see some discolorization and faint outlines of where the rings were rusting into the walls .

And as my luck is prevailing with this motor when I took the bottum end apart the center main bearing had a small copper spot on it, so time to get a new polished crank and new bearings.:sigh:: Although I do not care about spending money on my engine for my "peace of mind" as you call it I do find it hard to believe that this engine keeps taking a dump on my schedule. But I am not done yet I thought that, "hey the pistons will be alright at least" ; Yeah right at least 4 of the pistons had the rings rusted in and filled with carbon and looked like crap. So new pistons ::KA CHING:: theres goes more money it just never stops; and as with new pistons I am thinking about new rods. But hopefully my NA goals will be modest enough so I do not have to use a set of upgraded rods.

But WHO knows.

here are some pictures to show the little imperfections that make car projects fun and expensive.

 

Sorry to see the problems there. Hopefully a good shop can get that out without going over more then rings can gap. You'll -probably- be fine as it is, but with the work you're putting into this, I can't imagine you'd be very pleased to hear your compression took a dump on account of the condition of the walls.

Here's hoping for a happy post next.

 

Yep, that $ucks.

 

I think that this is an interesting swap. How about a status update.............