wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Here's the jist, my car is in stripped down form right now with absolutely no wiring in the engine bay whatsover. Once I get her back from the paint shop it'll be wiring time.

My question to those in the know is: What relays, wires etc. should I get rid of if any while I have the harnesses out of the car? I think I'm going to have Speartech make me a consolidated engine harness but I'd like to do the same to the chassis harness if possible.

Any links or writeup would be great as I have not found any info about chassis wiring as it relates to LS1/LS6 swaps.

I have about 5yrs experience in component level electronics in the avaiation field and about two years of car audio and home automation experience but unfortunately I donot have the specialty tools anymore to fab up cables so I'm going to have to contract the work out.


-Rob

GsrSol

This link has a few wiring posts but go over to www.torquecentral.com and search that database, you'll find everything you need to know. Keep the relays and fuse boxes.

http://payne.stanford.edu/LS1-FD-links.htm

zkeller

iTrader: (47)

Rob, Send your LS6 harness over to Hinson, if you got it with the engine. They will strip out the non essential connectors and wiring, and tag all the connections on the LS6 harness as to where they go on the RX7 harness. I am very familiar with the FD harness if you need help. I just sent mine down to Brian along with my throttle body for porting.

What I would like to know is where in the hell you mount that big honkin GM/Dephi ECM?

Did you find a trans yet? Remind me when I get back to connect you with the guy I got my Slowmaro parts car from. He may have a trans. I am in the airport now ready to board.

owen is fat

speartech does the same thing and includes a photo of the harness noting each connectors function and speartech sticks to his deadlines.... unlike hinson.

for the chassis wiring, do you still have your original harness? you can just remove everything that went to the rotory motor, its that simple.

paul_3rdgen

iTrader: (6)

I don't know if you have a harness already but try Howell engineering for hot rod style harness and pcm programmed to give no codes! I bought a long block and building from there, so I needed a harness and pcm as well as alot of other parts. The harness is very easy to intergrate into the car, very few wires to connect.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

No tranny yet. I think I'm going to take a trip to Gene's Karr Shop in Fl. and pick up everything I need while I visit my old Marine buddy and his wife.

My question was mainly about the chassis harness with the fan relays and such since I'm not too familiar with the wiring layout.


Thanks for the info everyone, I'll do some some digging and post what I find out.

GsrSol

Sorry I should have said this earlier but you can not run a Vette wiring harness due to the tranny and some other engine sensors have different plugs. So to run a LS6 you need to get a LS1 fbody harness. You will then need a plug adapter to run the Z06 MAF.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Where's the best place to purchase a plug adapter for the MAF sensor?

Gene actually suggested that I get a Z28 harness and ECU for this application so I guess that's what I will go with.

here's a link to Gene's Kar shop http://www.geneskarshop.com/. He's the Fritz Flynn of the Corvette world, he has every part you could dream of and is extremely helpful.


Next question: As far as the interior wiring goes, is there anything that I need to be thinking about doing while I have the dash out? I know about the tach correction, is there anything else that I'm not thinking of?



thanks again

turbogarrett

iTrader: (1)

I would do the x-14 connector if you haven't already. X-14 contains h2o temp, speedo and a wire that must be grounded for the gauges to work. It is located under the passenger side dash, near the hole that the main engine harness passes through. I extended the wires so they were easier to work with.

I sent my wiring harness to the guys at http://lt1350.com/. They did everything speartech/ hinson does for $275, have great customer service and a fast turnaround time.

Good luck!

GsrSol

Do you have a LS6 already? I mean a full LS6 from a Z06 and not a fbody LS1 with a LS6 block.

They are tuned different so if for whatever reason you got a pcm from a Z28 you would have to flash it at the dealer for your year Z06. The MAF plug adapter can be picked up from just about any LS1 shop. Mine came with the aftermarket MAF. Just go through the sponsors on www.LS1Tech.com and you'll find someone selling them, I think they run $10-15.

If you want to do a LS6 just know it is a lot more work (unless you live next to a fbody junkyard) and will cost a couple more grand to complete. There are threads on TC listing everything I needed, and later found out I needed, just so that motor would work.

http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=ls6

http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=ls6

http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=ls6

TC is your friend and you wont get flamed by a marine over there.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

yes it's a 2003 ls6 longblock with 5k miles.

Gene's kar shop actually has ever part that I would ever need, thankfully, and his pricing is excellent.

I have a bit of reading to do to get up to speed on all of this so I can lay a gameplan. I really do appreciate the help thus far, I think the LS guys on this forum are a great and helpful group.

I'm not to worried about the Marines cause I happen to be one as well, got out June of last year and I'm loving life ;o)

zkeller

iTrader: (47)

I plan to just run the car in speed density mode, thus eliminating the mass air sensor. Are any of you doing this now? That would save Rob some money and hassle. Someone suggested this before here on the forum.

wingsfan

Plenty of people are doing it in FI applications, but I haven't read of anyone doing it NA. It will work better with the MAF if you aren't saturating the system with compressed air. The issue with boost is that once the MAF pegs, you're just guessing with the tune.

wingsfan

True. Sadly, my left nut is smarter than said Marine.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

Could you please elaborate on what you mean by "do the x-14 connector."

thanks, Rob

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

My gameplan right now is to get a complete F-body pullout minus the engine. I'm going to avoid the fly by wire and I'll go with a cable throttle, fb oilpan, fb harness, accessories and ECU.

I'll probably get an LSX intake and a 78mm TB.

I'd like to hear more about how the throttle cable is hooked up. Which T cable do you use, the FD cable, the f-bady cable, or should it be custom made or modified? How does the range of motion on the FD gas pedal compare to that of the f-body, Is the travel going to be enough to fully open and close the throttle?

what type of performance engine mounts are available?

By the way I had a chance to see a procharger up close and personal on a friend's 350Z. I guess he had the older model which was abnoxiously loud, it sounded like his timing chain was scrapping a chalkboard. If I go with a blower noise will be a large concideration because that thing sounded like deepfried ***.

turbogarrett

iTrader: (1)

Use the fd throttle cable. I had to flip the mount on the tb upside down and trim ~ 1/2" of plastic off of the gas pedal assembly to get enough travel. Simple to do, kinda hard to explain without pics.

I don't remember what colors the wires are that you need in X-14 offhand, search x-14 at TC

jimlab

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=14

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

got it. thanks

GsrSol

Since you're using the fbody oil pan you also have to use the fbody baffle and pick up tube. If you pull the accs off the fbody, KEEP THE BOLTS! I spent alot of money on new bolts cause hardly any of them were interchangable. Some people say not to reuse the stock bolts cause they are tty (torque to yield) but I think it'll be fine for the accs, you just don't want to reuse the crank bolt or head bolts etc.

Yes, use the FD throttle cable. Here is a pic of the bracket that the cable mounts to right at the throttle body. I did mine wrong, this bracket needs to be flipped upside down so you don't have to modify the cable.

www.ThunderRacing.com sells the Prothane poly motor mounts for $55 a pair (it's under the bushings/suspension section). They also have the poly tranny mount for $23. New rubber ones from the dealer are about $60-80 each and I wouldn't reuse a used one unless it's in excellent shape.

X14 is a white plug that hangs right around the harness opening in the firewall.

wanklin

iTrader: (2)

^ because this is useful information