gearhead670

boy some of the people on here are just flat out bad--i think ill stick to this area of the web site --im getting all the parts to put my 462 big block in a 87 turbo 2+still havent found a body yet --not a big deal still have more stuff to get anyways -im going for a inch away from the firewall with my msd distrib. the mallory one is smaller -i used that one on my last rx--im planning on adding the inch to the front of the grannys crossmember pads and adding gusset in the corner-im using those high energy mounts so i can machine a hasp fit to the cradle and a crossbolt--i here the valve covers get real close to the booster and dont know anyone yet that has i big block in thier 2nd gen --ive seen one but he cut up the mazda crossmember to get headers by --kinda seems dangerous to me.the rad support im thinking will have to widened to fit the 4 core chevy rad. i want to use and to be moved forward because the big block is an inch and a half longer plus i want an extra inch to the firewall--ill take my time with the fab and change my vert band saw blade to the 24 pitch blades--i can borrow the guy up the streets brake to make new pockets for the rad.

gearhead670

and the ride height issue will have to be adressed ---i have secret solve for that one -going to take some time on the bridgeport mill but it will work great-dont like crimping the line down for the fuel pump so i made my own pickup to replace the pump --the big block has a return line on the fuel pump so ill have figure that one out--i think the parts i made for my last one will work great for this one -just have to make them again -(sold the other one to my brother)-love these car just dont care for the rotorys -im sure they can be built well but im a chevy guy and i love all the torque they have

gearhead670

anyone else on here get into the heavy fabrication?-and yes i know theres an area on here for that too but i kinda think its all in one to build what you want and to get it to be reliable and look like it was suppose to be that way.So can anyone steer me in a good direction on a place that builds a good roll cage kit? i was thinking i could build my own but in a different way -like use rectangular mild steel instead of round that way i could mill angles on my bridgeport instead of bending it this way i could get into tighter areas and make it the exact way i want -ill bet most the reason this isnt done is that from what ive seen and read i guess the radius is suppose to be 2 1/2 times the diameter of the tube--if it was 2 angles to make whatever angle i wanted (like 45 and 45 makes 90) you wouldnt gain much unless you use a gusset in the corner or a crossbrace like 6 inches each way before the corner

gearhead670

and ya ill bet im not really posting this the right way (not a real computer nut )i spend most of my free time in the garage.i just got my first computer last year so im not super upto speed on this thing yet .been told ii should get a digital camera to post stuff on here and ya i should i guess---i guess ive made a choice on a body for this one (been lookin for 3 weeks )1987 turbo 2 gray with blue int.80,000 miles -if anyone has any interest ill keep on talkin on here and like i said should get a camera-oh one other thing if you want to talk smack on here and bash people -i have no time for you -i thought id get on here and talk to people with common interests but just seem to run into a lot of nasty people that act 10

gearhead670

here is a question somone on here might know.grannys say you have to pull the tach to recaibrate it right ? is there any other way to do this without tearing the dash apart?(from rotary to v-8)i didnt try it on my last one but was talking to someone about putting a resistor inline to the tach --but i dont think this will work because its a minus lead not a feed going into the tach-i hooked mine up last car but it read like 2 times the value -and havent taken a dash apart on one yet (sure i could figure it out )but if there is an easy way id like to hear it.

rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

dont have to pull the dash, just need to take the cluter bezel off and pull the cluster out

gearhead670

are the ***** easy to take off?or is ther no need to take them off to get the bezel off-thanks

gearhead670

oh got ahold of the guys at grannys today and they are sending my truss style tranny crossmember (the one they sent me bolts to the stock bolt holes in the floor )but this one wont work cause i had to cut those off flush to the tunnel on my last car because the shifter linkage hits them otherwise.so just waiting on that and the drive shaft --i should be getting the car (87 turbo 2) in the next 2 weeks---been looking online for who sells the best roll cage but im not going to order that till i get the rest of the stuff from grannys---also tryin to find someone who sells a stiffer springs for the front(stronger spring rate ) i havent looked that hard for those yet.

rotary-guy

iTrader: (24)

theres no need to take the bezel apart, just the 2 screw in the bottom, and 3 in the arch way, dissconect the wires going to the swithces and remove. the cluster is held in by 4 screws. with the truss style your pretty much just drilling holes through the floor and poping the bolts through. at least thats what it was like with my 302 swap.

Raxes989

dont mean to threadjack but does anyone know how hard it would be to put an 85 guage cluster into a 79 rx7 ?

gearhead670

no clue here all ive had is 87s and amen on the chevy quote!

gearhead670

Well my 87 turbo 2 is on its way here and as soon as i get it the motor tranny radiator and drive shaft will be up for sale if anyone is interested (79,500 miles )you can drive it and hear it run before you buy it. oh by the way all the coils come with it too(all im keeping is the speedo drive and the sending units-power steering pump and alternator.this car was owned by an older couple (he passed away and she sold it)--so if you have an interest in the parts listed let me know--ill pull it you pick it up --not shipping it so you have to live at least half way close -------thanks -------jason