I'm looking for pictures of people that have made their own mounts to give me some idea, i've a welder, so that's no issue. I'm on a very tight budget, so i want to do this as cheaply as possible, which is why i don't want to buy a kit.

Don't give me **** about the swap, my motor is due for a rebuild and a clutch, it'll be the same price to swap if not cheaper, not to mention more fuel economic and more rewarding than 100hp.

 

I love the fact that I come this close (picture fingers touching) to getting banned for talking about the progress of my V6 swap but this is still here in the first gen section, there is another progess report (skittle) a few threads down from this as I type and they haven't gotten their post moved or threats of being banned.

Is someone out for me and I just don't relize it. What gives?

Can your welder weld 1/4 steel? for mounts I wouldn't go much less than that thickness. Also you really should go to the torquecentral to ask this question as the fordv8/fb seems to be done allot and your question actually will be answered, I'm running a chevy. Don't think about being cheap, think about doing it right and hope that it doesn't cost much, it wont.

 

I'm still wanting to do it "right", i just want to do it with economics in mind, Granny's Speed Shop offers a mounting kit with driveshaft for about $400 shipped, i'll likely do that because i can see spending that much ******* things up and having to replace it.

I'd like to see what people have done for custom mounts though, i have no experience in motor swaps other than Hondas, it's bolt-in to swap them.

What did you do about a driftshaft?

This will probably be a Spring project as i save through the Winter.

 

just get the tranny mounts/engine mounts for $150, then take the two driveshafts to your local machine shop and have them throw them together with the right length and balance it, thats what they did for my 5.0/ T5 with gsl rear. Still waiting to get it running and see if the rear can actually hold it (stock 89 GT engine).

 

What did that run you?

 

It cost me $100 even for the driveshaft work. I measure 10times before I brought it to them, just to make sure I would have the correct length.

 

^^that's what I did too.^^

The guy charged $90, $10 more than normal because the inside diameter was differnent. I'd go with granny's stuff personally, I believe it comes with new U-joints. Sometimes it's worth spending the extra scratch if someone already has a kit + they've spent their money on R&D and the saves you money. There's more to a swap than mounts, you have to worry with alot of various angles of parts, granny has this figured out.

Now if you want something cheap and the same power stock as a 5slow and much better gas milage, follow my V6 swap. I found a complete package for >$400 and >60K miles. Though I'll brag more once I get it running, LOL. The only mistake I've made so far is buying a 2001, throttle by wire engine, the throttle didn't come with the engine but I might be able to pick one up for a few bucks if things work out-- it's $375 new from the stealer.

 

I mainly want a 302 because i know the engine well, i've been messing with them for about 4 years now and rebuilt one as it's the only motors a friend of mine messes with. I'm also interested in the Ford 2.3 Turbo, i may or may not look more into one, brainstorming for now. I'll likely just buy Granny's mount and driveshaft kit, if i don't, i know it'll **** me somehow.

What'd you do for exhaust? I'm considering just a Y pipe into a single exhaust out to a fart can, keep it kind of stealth.

 

which V6 are you speaking of for $400?

i've thought about using a MK3 supra engine/trans. 300hp can easily be created with just a few tricks. but i'm thinking the weight would be even worse than a 5.0's once said and done with the IC, piping, heavy *** tranny. not to mention its a inline engine so it probably wouldnt sit back as far as a V.

 

I bought an 85 Lincoln donor car to get the roller cam motor and AOD tranny, both rebuildable. I cut the mount plates off of the Lincoln front cross member using a cutting torch. These fit the motor mounts, and have an elongated hole to allow the engine to drop in easily. I blocked the motor and tranny in place, and bolted the Ford (Lincoln) motor mounts to the block. Then I trimmed the mount plates from the Lincoln, bolted them to the motor mounts and basically just filled in the space with some pieces of 3/16 steel plate. All this was made easy because my tranny guy gave me an empty tranny case, which is very light weight. Note that I also made my own bracket for the Mazda alternator, as I have a whole box of them.

Grant ( at Grannys) just turns the front crossmember around and uses a Ford double sump pan. I did mine before he started doing Ford conversions. I cut the crossmember just inside the frame rails, turned it front to back and welded it back together, which moved the offset to the rear. I then took a Ford front sump pan and trimmed it to fit in front of the crossmember, which cost me almost a quart of oil capacity. I drilled the blank hole out of the front cover and used an old style dipstick.

My rear tranny mount is kind of ugly, but it works and it is just a cut-and-paste of the Mazda and Lincoln parts. The AOD tranny us big, and I had to take a small divot out of the Mazda tranny mount bulge on the left side to clear the speedo cable.

I bought a very cheap set of Hedman Mustang headers, and my exhaust guy modified the left one by turning it down early, so he could run a cross pipe in front of the torque converter. The 2 1/2 collectors and Y-pipe go into a single 3 inch exhaust, with a 3 inch CAT and a single muffler. I had the headers and Y-pipe ceramic coated inside and out, so it should last a while. I have a lumpy cam and a bit of a rumble. I set off the car alarms whenever I drive into a parking garage.

 

5slow? Those things only need minor boltons to kick *** and take names.


There is lots of info about V8 RX-7s at torquecentral.com.

 

So I missed moving a thread...

I'm not omnipotent... just a mod

There, it's where it needs to be now.

Jon

 

this may help.

 

Yeah, i think i'll just save for the kit.

 

Grannys is working on a boltin kit for the 2.3 turbo. One exists for the ford and chevy small blocks already. Also, if you can weld,
someone figured out a almost idiot proof way to make 2.3 mounts already

http://www.turboford.org/ubb/ultimat...c;f=3;t=017596 check it out.

 

Those mounts don't look very safe...

 

The dude has rally raced for years, including sliding down a hill ***-first and hitting a fencepost and theyre fine.

So yeah, if it holds up to his driving for YEARS, I think it will hold up to street driving unless you take dives off hills or hit fenceposts more than he does!