Grannys Chev 350 2nd gen Swap Help
Grannys Chev 350 2nd gen Swap Help
I got the kit from grannys. They dont answer there phone.
besides the point i put my chev 350 in my fc and the oil pan is hitting the crossmember.
i was wondering if people run different oil pans?
i have the mounts on the engine as you can see from the pics but one side doesnt line up,
any one whos done the swap before that can help would be awsome



besides the point i put my chev 350 in my fc and the oil pan is hitting the crossmember.
i was wondering if people run different oil pans?
i have the mounts on the engine as you can see from the pics but one side doesnt line up,
any one whos done the swap before that can help would be awsome



If you have room around the top of bell housing you could build spacers and lift engine enough to clear ,
never done it on a small block but you could also use a dry sump system and make the pan smaller . If you don't need much change for the pan to fit just modify it to fit, very easy to do . if you screw it up chevy pans are everywhere easy to find .
DC rotor has some good stuff there . good luck
You probably all ready know but make sure the small block has enough slope to the rear of engine to drain top end or you will for sure have a leaky tappet cover. Lots of guys were building hot rods in the 70s -80s with small chevys and most of them the engine was to level and most leaked . they need to drain fast from the top or the bottom end will get low on oil unless you have a large over sized pan which you all ready have issues with . you will find that at higher rpm's there is barely enough oil in the pan to keep the oil pump working . we use to run them i quart over just to make sure . especially with a high volume oil pump .
never done it on a small block but you could also use a dry sump system and make the pan smaller . If you don't need much change for the pan to fit just modify it to fit, very easy to do . if you screw it up chevy pans are everywhere easy to find .
DC rotor has some good stuff there . good luck
You probably all ready know but make sure the small block has enough slope to the rear of engine to drain top end or you will for sure have a leaky tappet cover. Lots of guys were building hot rods in the 70s -80s with small chevys and most of them the engine was to level and most leaked . they need to drain fast from the top or the bottom end will get low on oil unless you have a large over sized pan which you all ready have issues with . you will find that at higher rpm's there is barely enough oil in the pan to keep the oil pump working . we use to run them i quart over just to make sure . especially with a high volume oil pump .
Last edited by gerald m; Mar 30, 2012 at 11:25 AM.
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You have to start by removing the cross member below where the original rotary engine sits. Then methodically remove all other parts that interfere with the new motor and replace with suitable parts from junkyard. Final product should look similar to picture below.
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the brace does come off.
Go under the car..look..4 bolts!
take off the 4 bolts(2 each side) hidden in those holes in the brace.
then Lift the Brace UP.and off the Hooks..
Done!
Go under the car..look..4 bolts!
take off the 4 bolts(2 each side) hidden in those holes in the brace.
then Lift the Brace UP.and off the Hooks..
Done!
Years ago, after rebuilding numerous RX-7 wrecks, my friend bought a wrecked FC convertible, when they were pretty new. We could not find a convertible nose, so we got a front clip from a coupe and started to weld it on at the firewall. We spent many hours drilling out spot welds and removing various pieces of structure that were not on the coupe. I think we counted 17 pieces that were unique to the convertible. It was a very unpleasant job.
I suppose I can understand someone wanting to do this who doesn't have a welder, but you should develop a friendship with someone who is a welder. I think if you had told Grant you were putting this in a convertible when you bought the kit, he would have told you what to do. Just remember that if you modify the crossmember and have to weld it, the welds will never leak! If you modify the pan you will have to leak check it, and there is no guarantee there won't be some seepage later.
We just finished putting a Skyline motor in an FB, and I insisted on modifying the crossmember to fit around the stock pan.
I suppose I can understand someone wanting to do this who doesn't have a welder, but you should develop a friendship with someone who is a welder. I think if you had told Grant you were putting this in a convertible when you bought the kit, he would have told you what to do. Just remember that if you modify the crossmember and have to weld it, the welds will never leak! If you modify the pan you will have to leak check it, and there is no guarantee there won't be some seepage later.
We just finished putting a Skyline motor in an FB, and I insisted on modifying the crossmember to fit around the stock pan.




