Want to put a SBC in a first gen. Is there anybody else besides grannys that makes a kit? I was wondering cause i have heard bad things about grannys. I also heard that a SBF is an easier conversion, Is this true? Thanks ahead of time Darin

 

no they are incredibly hard! dont do it!

 

i can do it not worried about that just looking for kit sources mostly and info comparing ford sb to chevy sb

 

Use Granny's for it. The problems you've heard about refer almost exclusively to using LSx/LTx motors and 3rd gen cars. My 2nd Gen SBC swap was flawless as far as the conversion parts he supplied.

 

SBF is much easier in a fb

 

Just A thought, Have you considered A 4.3 bowtie on juice! Keep more of the weight in the center of the car and the handling won't suffer as much

 

why is the ford motor easier to put in?

 

mostly because the dist. is up front on an sbf, on 350's you will run into clearance problems with the distributor hitting the firewall. but, the 302 is also smaller.
granny's sells a kit for both the sbf and sbc but the sbf kit is a lot cheaper
http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/1stgenrx7fordv8.html
http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/1...x7chevyv8.html
in the end it all comes down to which one's gonna cost you the most and which one you like

 

whatever, putting a v8 into an fb is almost as easy as just replacing the stock 12a (as long as you have a kit).
If you know what you're doing and have all the parts, the swap wont take more then 2-3 weekends.

 

the mounts are the same pretty much

 

interesting... 302's are pretty cheap to come by as well arent they? im not really against one or the other, i wanted a 350, but i want cheap as well.


looks like im heading to the junkyard today to do some homework...

 

FYI - clearing the firewall with the Chevy distributor is not that big of a deal. I didn't want wipers anyway so I just cut a section out of mine to clear it, but with a small-style distributor cap, a couple taps with a rubber mallet will do the trick.

 

yes, 302's can be had for a song in most salvage yards. If you're buying a complete running engine the sbf and sbc are around the same price. If you're biulding your own engine you might be able to save a few bucks by biulding a 350, but if you count the special distributor and the extra cost of granny's kit you're still looking at about the same $.
I've never put a 350 in an fb but the 302 already a tight fit around the headers and steering box, You might need custom headers with the 350 as it is wider.
good luck.

 

im sure yall have been asked this a MILLION times.. but yall have been cool with answering my basic questions so far, so ill ask some more...

-what kind of headers/exhaust manifolds fit?
-i heard you need a special oil pan, what should i look for?
-what is the size of the driveshaft that i need made with the granny's kit (yoke center to yoke center)
-the radiator needs to be moved right? does the stock mazda radiator cool enough?
-clearance problems with the hood/air cleaner? (im going to go carb)


ive done a motor swap in a fb before (ford 2.3 turbo), so i know the basics that need to be done in a motor swap. the plan will be to get all the parts i need and put it together in a couple weeks/months. ive heard of people doing it in a couple weekends, but my 2.3 swap took me over a year, so i wont be rushing for time.

any links to threads that go over all the things needed? this seems to be ALOT easier than the 2.3 since there is a kit for the 5.0, and people have done them before.

 

I've been told MAC shorty's for 79'-93 mustangs work the best (little or no mods needed). bbk's and others work but you'll need to bash one of the primaries to make it clear the steering box.

you'll need a "duel sump" oil pan off a 79-93 stang or a crown vic (easy to find)

not sure how long of a drive shaft you need, and I can't go look, the car's been gone for a long time.

I wouldn't try cooling a 302 with the stock radiator.you'll probeby need a 22"/ 19"/ 3" rad. I'd look on EBAY or in a summit or jegs

if you use a granny's kit, your hood should shut just fine (unless you go gonzo with the size of the intake and air cleaner)

from what I remember this is one of the simplist swaps out there. I'm not saying it's a no brainer but I've done a lot harder swaps in my day

 

kickass, thanks man.

i did some searching yesterday. i think i have the hook up on a motor with 'low milage' (need to see what that means, but im told it WONT need to be rebuilt) if all else fails, ill get a motor from a junkyard and rebuild that.

what kind of intake manifold/carb is recommended? i dont know **** about all that stuff. ive seen a couple 5.0's with 650cfm carbs. is that good enough? any brand i should look for like edelbrock, ect.

are the fuel lines big enough on the 12a cars? i used them one my fuel injected 2.3 and they worked fine. im guessing the steal lines will flow enough?

what fuel pump should i use? im guessing the stock one wont flow enough. and is the regulator on the motor? what should i do about that?

wiring isnt bad correct? just hooking up the starter wire (i guess it will have the remote started soleniod (my 2.3 car did). and power to a coil, what else?

that radiator, is it hard to mount in there? im guessing it will be flush with the frame up there, infront of the sway bar.

should i buy the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder from granny's?

i appreciate the help

 

'k, It's been a while since I've thought about some of this stuff, So I'll try and help as much as I can.
I wouldn't go any bigger the 675 cfm on the carb. Personally, I'd go with a 575 or 600 cfm holley. The street advenger series is my personall favorite but they can be a bit pricey. If you don't have that kind of money go with a 600cfm vacum secondary holley or a junior demon carb.
We used an edelbrock performer intake with good success. The performer rpm intake might work but it is about an inch taller. Professional products makes a cheaper clone of both of these intakes, or you can find a good used one cheap on ebay.
The stock fuel lines should work just fine. Remember, the 12a uses a lot of gas.
I've used the holley "red" electric fuel pump. The're very relable as long as you put a fuel filter before the pump.
The only other wiring you might have to do is an electric choke for the carb (keyed ignition and ground) and an electric fan if your going to use it. Don't forget the alternator.
As I recall the radiator fit in nicely, although you may have to trim a little around the sides. Also, put it as far forward as you can. It's not really that tight of a fit but I don't like the idea of my radiator hitting the fan.
I can't remember which clutch master and slave cyclinders we used. I've always had good luck with Mcleod products, as for the granny's stuff check out this thread:
http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...ght=ford+slave

let me know if I can be of any more help

 

BTW the 5.0 mounts are the same as the 2.3t basically

 

ill look into used intakes and ill probably buy the carb new.

thats interesting about the clutch fork. cant you just use a bigger bore mastercylinder? or does the slave have to match it? what about using a cable clutch? or is that probably not a good idea?

once again, appreciate it.

 

this might be a dumb question, but why cant you use the stock slave cylinder, and use a bigger sized willwood master cylinder? is it the special line that goes to the ford slave, because i sucessfully used a union to mate the stock half (slave) to a steal line. can i do that?

 

I think the problem most people have is that they can't get enough travel out of the slave cylinder. To fully disengage the throw out bearing you'll need about 1.5 or more inches of travel on the slave. The more I think about it I'm pretty sure we used an after market hydrolic throw out bearing instead of a slave cylinder. If you could shorten the travel of the fork you could probably use the stock slave with a larger master. Unfortunatly I'm not entirely sure of this. As far as using a cable system like on the mustang I have heard of people doing this. You'll need to clearance alot around the shift fork and possibly shorten it. Also, you'll need to modify the clutch pedal and above all make sure nothing is binding. I was thinking about using a cable for my next swap (302 into an fc). I'm not entirely sure if this will work because of clearance issues. If it does it would be by far the best way to do things as I absoultly hate hydraulic clutches. Sorry I can't be of any more help maybe someone else on this site can help, or you can ask some of the people over at www.torquecentral.com under the v8/rx7 section as their are at least a dozen guys that have done the exact same swap as your wanting to do.

Again good luck