outlawdsm

What motor swaps have been done to FC's besides;
small block chevy
ford v8
.....?

I have an motor swap i plan on starting at the end of this year.

86gxl_fc

make a wild guess.. ur probably goin to guess right.

outlawdsm

http://gnttype.org/nats/96nats/images/rx7.jpg
buick grand national swap^

http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/m...tv62ndgen.html
chevy v6 swap^

also found a place selling nissan VG30 swap kits

andrew lohaus

supra engines
s2000 engines
sr20det
the venerable 20b.

fc's have huge engine bays so pretty much any car engine can be shoehorned in with enough fabrication. i want to see someone do a v-12.

outlawdsm

cant seem to find any 4cyl swaps....

Icemark

What would be the point of a 4 syl swap???

You want less HP and Torque...

what are your trying to build a car for a teenager???

sillbeer

sr20 is a popular and proven 4 cylinder. Very comparible performance to the 13bt found in the fc3s. If you do a search you'll find the sr20 fc swap in this section.

-Destin

sillbeer

Or how about the 3sgte motor from the mr2? It was put in the jza80 supra for jgtc a few years ago. Or does that not put out enough hp either?


-Destin

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

...is there a point to this?

outlawdsm

no, More HP and More Torque, and reliability.

razorback

mopar 383 big block is going into mine (im having to do lots of fab stuff on it too) i want to put a viper engine in an fc sometime.

AXMDR787BOY

SBC
BBC
ZZ4
LT1
LS1
SBF
GN V6
Chevy V6
Mopar 383
Northstar
VQ30DE
VG30DET
SR20DET
20B
1JZGTE
2JZGTE
7MGTE
F20C

And someone is working on mating a 4G63 to TII trans..

outlawdsm

ahh 4g63.... thats what i have planned for either my FC when the stock motor dies. not sure what tranny i will use, depends on what i want the car to do, but i am thinking about a 2 speed powerglide because there are already adapter plates to mount 4g63's to powerglides....

AXMDR787BOY

Yeah Buschur has an adapter plate for the TH350 and the Torque Converter too.

86gxl_fc

4g63.. isnt that the mitsubishi motor??

outlawdsm

correct, cast iron, closed deck, w/oil squirters. they love boost and n2o and have been proven over and over again. Its no lame *** b18

86gxl_fc

i never knew thati got an extra block if anyone wants it... just randomly throwin it out there, lol. didnt some come turbocharged? i remember looking for the mitsubishi motor and i found loads that came turbocharged from factory.

RoadRaceJosh

I thought it might be time to kick this thread in the *** so here goes. Anyone try a 1UZ-FE (the Toyota/Lexus 4.0 aluminum V8) in an FC? They are smaller than the Infinity Q45 VH45DE engine and the Ford 4.6, but you still get 32 valves and 4 cams. The old versions are 250hp and would make for a nice driver. If you could shoehorn the VH45DE in there and put a manual trans behind the motor easier than is possible now I wouldn't mind at all. Nissan rated the VH45DE at the unofficial Japanese limit of 278hp, but they make a little over 300. The early Infinity motors have variable valve timing that the Lexus motors lack. You have to buy a newer Lexus motor from a GS400 to get variable valve timing.

I'm still pressing forward with my 318 powered FC, but the wheels in my head are always turning. Since my current FC project is a gutted track toy I thought it might be fun to build a driver with an aluminum 4 cam V8.

cutlass73

Some friends and I were talking about that same sort of motor swap the other night, only we were referencing it to a Miata instead. That sounds like it could be a very interesting ordeal. RX-4.0?

Nihilanthic

How much would those engine/tranny combos cost vs the domestic v8s? That right there is one of the reasons why you see the Big three inside FCs if the rotary is taken out.

Plus, stock LSx is 300whp. Getting over that with virtually any domestic v8 is like falling off a log, but the aftermarket for foreign v8s is considerably pricier. More cams and more valves adds cost and bragging rights, not power necessarily. 4v heads haver a flow advantage at low lifts, or with small bores. Unless youre trying to mod a 305 you wont even notice the # of valves unless you try to cam it, because they tend to have lift over .400" at least and have a bore of 4" or 3.9" for the SBC and the LS1, respectively. Plus, good luck finding a set of FOUR CAMS and springs for 32 valves if you want to build your Toyota/Nissan engine N/A! I dont even know if they make heads for the Toyota/Nissan v8s! Youd probably be stuck with going with forced induction.

BTW - the 305 has a smallish bore and a long stroke. It had breathing troubles and the long stroke makes building for revs more difficult. 302 is a 4" bore, 3" stroke, it can breathe well and is better suited for performance. The only catch is that 302 blocks are usually 2bolt main blocks. (Well, ****, I havent heard of a 4bolt main 302 unless you take a chevy 350 and destroke it!)

If youre doing the small displacement forced induction thing, a 4G63 cant do you wrong, and, the SR20DET is getting to be a fad motor becuase everyone nuts over the silvia... but youre still working with only two liters of displacement unless you bore or stroke it out.

The choices are endless, really, but as far as being cheap, fast, reliable, and supported, domestic v8s are the easiest and arguably the best choice for most people.

razorback

305s as in chevy 305s? why the hell would you want such a weak *** engine? (yes i HATE the 305s)

Nihilanthic

I was using it as an example of why 2v heads dont like small bores. The valves are shrouded and it simply cant breathe worth a damn. I have seen someone build a 305 to make about 400 hp, however it was an expensive and difficult affair. 4v heads dont really mind if a bore is small AFAIK - Supra I6's have pretty small bores!

I think I wasnt clear enough, sorry about that. But yeah, the reason a 302 beats the **** out of a 305 is that the 302 has a nice healthy bore so its valves can breathe sufficiently, and that short stroke can facilitate higher rpms, whereas a 305 would see its best use as a truck engine with that long stroke and lack of breathability with its tiny *** bore

And well, its also to make people realize that having 32 valves isnt relaly all its cut out to be. Sure, you can move air through a smaller bore that way - but at a financial and modability cost. FOUR CAMS and THIRTY-TWO sets of valvesprings/retainers/lifters/balblablabla is EXPENSIVE, whereas with a pushrod engine you have ONE cam, and only 16 of all the assorted valvetrain **** if your lift or rpms are too great. IMO, right now, just going with more bore (and more displacement ) and keeping the pushrods at the lack of snob appeal... and the possibility that you need some better rods if the stock ones flex :P

Sorry I wasnt clear! lol.

cretinx

isn't the sr20det a 4 cylinder swap?

I've driven a camaro - and all I can say is that engine in an RX-7 would make me mess my pants.

Nihilanthic

cretinx - which camaro? A TPI L98 from the 80s was only 230 hp (though torque out the ***) and in a much heavier car. The LT1 from the 90s was a bit more powerful (270 or so?) and in a just a heavy car, and LS1s can get over 400 whp with cams/heads/LT headers.

I think it would do a little more than make you mess your pants

AXMDR787BOY

The 1UZFE has been done before in AUS. There are decent NA upgrades for it, but you have to look to AUS for some of them. You don't need aftermarket heads on the 1UZ since the stock ones flow exceptionally well. There are different bells around to mate any Toyota tranny and some GM trannys as well. It might not be a bad idea to build a 1UZ. Forged internals stock. Well flowing head. Throw in some cams and intake exhaust and you get some large gains from the motor. It is apparent that it IS smaller than a LS1. I mean it IS almost 2 liters smaller. It can make awesome power with boost. Initial cost is VERY low. 500 bucks can get you a COMPLETE motor set. I was thinking about building one myself. The down side is that you are entering what is pretty much uncharted water. There are people building the 1UZ as these motors are out there for nearly nothing, and can take 8-10psi of boost from an Eaton blower stock. I'm pretty sure some people are playing with some E90s. A complete LS1 and T56 is anywhere from 2500-5000 while you could pick up a 1UZ and a W58 or R154 for less than 1K. You could even get a V160 (Supra TT 6 Speed) or T56 to mate to it and still come out ahead of an LS1. Where the cost of a 1UZ will catch up is custom headers and other custom parts.