Cxracing v8 swap kit questions
#1
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Cxracing v8 swap kit questions
Based on a 89 s5 fc3s N/A
Cxracing v8 swap kit
My questions are regarding how many have actually used these ???
Scale 1-10 what kind of quality?
Any problems with install?
Life on this kit what's first to go out?
Main question- when installed is it possible to return to rotary with this kit I know other kits I need to cut/ delete parts in order for trans or other parts to fit.
Reason for this is I'm planning to run a v8 and a rotary setup why simply to give me a running car when one fails...
Let's say I blow a water seal I want to be able to swap into a v8 meanwhile I rebuild my rotary then swap back or in another term I simply want to be able to jump from rotary to v8 when ever I feel like it lol but with those other kits I already know it's not possible reason why I'm choosing cxracing if it wasn't for cutting those parts I would definitely pay up more
Cxracing v8 swap kit
My questions are regarding how many have actually used these ???
Scale 1-10 what kind of quality?
Any problems with install?
Life on this kit what's first to go out?
Main question- when installed is it possible to return to rotary with this kit I know other kits I need to cut/ delete parts in order for trans or other parts to fit.
Reason for this is I'm planning to run a v8 and a rotary setup why simply to give me a running car when one fails...
Let's say I blow a water seal I want to be able to swap into a v8 meanwhile I rebuild my rotary then swap back or in another term I simply want to be able to jump from rotary to v8 when ever I feel like it lol but with those other kits I already know it's not possible reason why I'm choosing cxracing if it wasn't for cutting those parts I would definitely pay up more
#2
Fistful of steel
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I'm well versed in the V8 community and don't know of anyone that runs that kit. I am assuming you want to install an LS based V8. I'm also assuming you want to run the CX kit because their trans mount bolts to the factory trans mount location? I am curious where the shifter lands with that setup. With the Ronin LS mount kit the shifter lands in exactly the stock location, and we remove the factory transmission crossmember mount.
Switching engines back and forth will be a fairly awkward considering the wiring and plumbing changes needed. I can assure you once you blow a water seal on your rotary and throw in a V8 you probably wont take it back out... Just saying.
Switching engines back and forth will be a fairly awkward considering the wiring and plumbing changes needed. I can assure you once you blow a water seal on your rotary and throw in a V8 you probably wont take it back out... Just saying.
#4
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Your assumption are correct + they now offer driveshaft with a bolt on diff adapter for n/a or turbo making this a complete bolt on installation I would only need to worry about wiring and plumbing although I'm yet to find anyone who is running this kit to get there input on quality and fitment that's if there are any out there still alive lol
#6
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I understand how the ronin kit is top shelf stuff nothin against it if it was a direct bolt on similar to Cxracing I would never consider them just looking at how the kits places the engine and trans is just about perfect but let's say the quality of Cxracing is actually worth the cash and could hold up the abuse of let's say drag racing or drifting or simply daily driving I want to find how it actually holds up against other kits such as ronin's if I could simply bolt on my kit on and off for an engine swap that would be perfect
#7
Fistful of steel
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I don't see how the engine placement will be optimal. I am reasonably sure you need to remove the OE transmission crossmember mounts to get the T56 transmission to fit. I never tried to get my trans in there with the mounts, so there is a possibility it could work.
I have a feeling the shifter will be further forward. That would be my big question and that causes a host of other issues.
There is probably a reason no one uses that kit.
I have a feeling the shifter will be further forward. That would be my big question and that causes a host of other issues.
There is probably a reason no one uses that kit.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 03-12-16 at 11:48 AM.
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#9
Fistful of steel
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That can be said of 99.9% of cars on the road. The optimal weight balance for a performance or race car is in the 40/60 range. My swapped car is 51/49 with me in it.. I'll take that given the entire drivetrain has been swapped and it is only 1% different than the factory weight balance.
But in a swapped FC, having the shifter where the radio is will certainly make for some extra work that would detract from any benefit gained by a 100% bolt in swap kit.
Again, I don't have any experience with the CX kit so I don't know for sure.
But in a swapped FC, having the shifter where the radio is will certainly make for some extra work that would detract from any benefit gained by a 100% bolt in swap kit.
Again, I don't have any experience with the CX kit so I don't know for sure.
#10
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Your assumption are correct + they now offer driveshaft with a bolt on diff adapter for n/a or turbo making this a complete bolt on installation I would only need to worry about wiring and plumbing although I'm yet to find anyone who is running this kit to get there input on quality and fitment that's if there are any out there still alive lol
I'm gonna put a T5 to the N/A Diff but have the option of going to a TII diff.
#11
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http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/161410113516
Last edited by 87nitefc; 03-13-16 at 01:05 AM.
#12
Fistful of steel
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You can have a driveshaft built to your specs for that price and not need an adapter.
With the Ronin kit you can use a C4 corvette driveshaft after you swap the correct yokes on each end. It ends up being cheaper.
If you use a T5 you can't use the CX or the C4 driveshaft. You will have to have one custom made. You can just get the proper rear yoke for whatever diff you run. If you start with an NA diff and go TII later it is pretty easy to re drill the TII pinion flange with an NA bolt pattern. Or just swap rear yokes.
With the Ronin kit you can use a C4 corvette driveshaft after you swap the correct yokes on each end. It ends up being cheaper.
If you use a T5 you can't use the CX or the C4 driveshaft. You will have to have one custom made. You can just get the proper rear yoke for whatever diff you run. If you start with an NA diff and go TII later it is pretty easy to re drill the TII pinion flange with an NA bolt pattern. Or just swap rear yokes.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 03-13-16 at 10:33 AM.
#13
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Thanks.I fully appreciate the link but as LOF said "holy Fark..!"
I can't see putting in a Driveshaft that that is about 4 times what I paid for the rest of the drivetrain itself!
I'd have this stuff figured out if the damn snow run off didn't create a creek that flows through the garage and directly UNDER the car..
I did the backstroke installing the tank yesterday!
I can't see putting in a Driveshaft that that is about 4 times what I paid for the rest of the drivetrain itself!
I'd have this stuff figured out if the damn snow run off didn't create a creek that flows through the garage and directly UNDER the car..
I did the backstroke installing the tank yesterday!
#14
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Ok LOF seems like you the right guy of knowledge for this not including labor what was your investment total from start to finish not including motor, trans, and wiring. I'm really interested to compare how much more is the Cxracing kit compared to your setup
What is the average price for a custom driveshaft built for a ls1 w/t56 trans to a N/A diff
What is the average price for a custom driveshaft built for a ls1 w/t56 trans to a N/A diff
#15
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I’m backkk lol so it seems Cxracing has developed some headers that would fit fc Rx7 ls1 any feedback.... are these a fair price at $630 for some custom headers
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