so I put my 2014 Evo X up for sale because I want to build an LS FD Rx7. But before I completely bite the bullet I wanted to see if maybe someone can let me drive their car (like a Normal person driving lol not hot rodding around, I'll leave the hot rodding to the owner)
i wanted to see if it's really something I can drive everyday and enjoy.

 

You should try over on norotors too. they have a Facebook page too. Lots of ls fds

 

If you are willing to drive down into the LA/OC/IE area there are quite a few guys with LS powered FDs. If you want a mild taste, go drive a C6 Z06, then imagine more noise, a smaller interior, and a lighter more direct feel with no traction aids and probably no ABS.

If you are selling an Evo, you might be better off buying a completed swap. You will save a bunch of money. Expect to pay in the high $20s to $30K for a very well sorted, clean swap with most everything functional.

 

well the plan was to sell my Evo and daily drive a complete rotary rx7 While I was going to start collecting parts motor, tranny etc. i know some shop owners who are willing to help me out big time so I wouldn't have to spend that 30k price tag. But before I commit completely I did want to test one out first. And yeah you're right I'm gunna have to take a drive down south for a test drive lol

 

Well keep in mind the better car you start with the better result you'll have. The interior pieces can be hard to find and are expensive for FDs. If you want a sorted car you (or someone) is going to have in the low $20k range into the car for a clean swapped street car, and it goes up from there.

 

yeah I hear you. But first things first, gotto get rid of my Evo lol after that I'll be able to see where I'm at exactly and hunt down a FD.

 

Best of luck, fwiw, as long as you have a nice multi plate clutch they are fine in traffic even with a big cam.

 

I don't even think you need that unless you are really making some power.

 

I need it for my weak *** clutch leg, hahaha, I'm getting old.

 

LOL. i guess I'm spoiled. my FC is not bad at all. I had a Mustang Cobra with a clutch cable before it though.

 

I have a turn key FD with 100K mile stock 2000 LS1 (LS1 intake/inj/rail), Spoolin coated long tube headers, cold air intake making about 375hp, p/s also. No A/C or ABS.

Freshly rebuilt T56 to Stage2 specs with around 1K miles, LS7 clutch/flywheel, Hinson Kmember/cooling system up front and Samberg diff mount out back (no torque arm... bye bye wheel hop) with 4:10 factory diff
The underside of the transmission tunnel has also been completely covered in DEI trans tunnel heat shield and riveted in place. Temps kept to nice levels now....

13" Greddy brakes, new bushings including pillowballs, Megan Racing coilovers, s/s braided brake lines, R1 shock tower brace

Shine widebody kit, fresh dark gray paint, CF vented hood, aftermarket bumper/lights, black interior, non sunroof, Sparco seats, all gauges work, super quiet exhaust, 17x9 front and 17x10 rear wheels running NEW Bridgestone Potenza tires (255f/275r). You couldn't duplicate this car for $30K. Needs nothing. Sits for 2 weeks and starts right up.

$22K obo

* If you want MORE POWER I can supply anything from 500hp n/a 91 octane using this LS1 shortblock (cam/heads/tune/intake)... up to 800hp n/a 93 octane for almost the price of this car

if interested and for pictures email my username at hotmail.com I'm rarely on here

A decent roller sells for $5-7K needing paint and probably body work if you can find one let alone with black interior. Add paint $4-5K+, $2500 in widebody/hood/bumper, an engine $2K, trans/clutch $3K, rewire engine harness, mounting/cooling kit/dshaft/bumpsteer $2K, rear mount Samberg kit $1K, suspension $2000 (remove all suspension and press in bushings), 13" brakes $2500 plus install, wheels/tires $3K, exhaust fab and headers $1500+, fuel system $1K, double DIN stereo $500, then add about 100hrs worth of labor, driving it to/from the body shop, waiting for said slow bodyshop 6 months to a year to do their job. Or buy one turn key ready to roll.

 

Had LS7 clutch in my LS3 swapped FD and it drove like a stock car. I went to a twin plate to take more abuse, it wasn't much different from the LS7 clutch effort.
Daily driving a 25 year old car is going to pretty much be what you should expect it to be; swapped or not.

In my opinion it's not realistic. The swaps feel more like race cars. They are raw and loud and not well suited to daily drive. There is a lot of heat from the long tubes that radiates into the cabin.

Is a swap fun, awesome, and well suited for an FD? Absolutely. But don't expect it to be a Corvette that looks like an FD.

 

To be fair, I don't think anyone has tried to make a quiet, comfortable LS swap . But you are right. If you loaded the car back up with some extra sound deadener and insulation, a quiet exhaust, softer drivetrain mounts and a soft suspension you might get close.. but let's face it, no one does any of that. They build a car too powerful, too raw, with so much time and effort into it they are scared to drive it, or don't want to.

Those are the swaps to buy.

 

OP you should probably buy this.

 

Well I can't buy anything until my Evo is gone lol
if you guys know anyone that wants a white 2014 Evo X all stock with 21k miles and still under full factory warranty. Super clean nothing wrong with it. I'm asking $32k
help me get a RX7 again! Lol

 

Pay attention to this. What you currently own is an enthusiast car that you can DD. What you plan on building is a hobby car. Things will go wonky at some point and may leave you on the side of the road. Building it will take much longer than you planned, and will cost you way more than you had thought.

Having built mine and helped others build their's, I'd suggest buying one that is already built and has AC/PS. You'll not only save a ton of money and time, but also a ton of headache. If you're very capable and have another car to drive around, you may consider building it yourself.

 

What gnx7 has is a good deal. If i were you, I'd just buy a car that's completed. There are some good deals out there for cars that were well put together.

 

I want to see pics of the evo.

 

Is the heat always an issue? I am coming from a C5Z, and I remember having some heat around the tunnel, but was only pronounced if I had the windows down/ac off. I assume we can dynamat it, or some other form of a barrier to prevent that?