I finally finished my speedhut gauge conversion. Here are some details.


First I cut holes in the clear plastic piece in the stock locations. I also had to trim several areas to allow rings that hold the gauges in place to screw all the way down once it was trimmed I painted it black.



Then I trimmed the small gauge holes

 

I also hacked up the black piece behind the clear plastic


And trimmed the tall posts from the white plastic as well as drilled a one inch hole And installed a grommet.




I also cut out this blank spot in the pcb to feed the remaining wires through.

 

Now it's time to put it all together.

Gauges installed into modded clear plastic and stacked with the rest.



Finally the front cluster was refinished.

 

That turned out really well. It's a good alternative to taking the Speedhut gauges apart and grafting them to the stock plastic. which i think is nuts because once you take their trim ring off, they kind of want to shoot parts all over lol

 

 

clean build

 

Are you only priming the engine bay? why is the engine in before paint?

 

Sorry it tooka so long to reply but the engine bay was painted about a year ago, post 78.

Damn this build is taking forever

 

did u get all the gauges hooked up yet? they look good and clean.. how much did they all run u?

 

I'll have to check and get back to you on that. But they are well worth the $. None of my interior is installed yet. I just hooked the cluster up to my batt to get an idea how they look.

 

Gauges look perfect. Great combo and really clean install.

 

Time for some long overdue updates.
Pez fan relate box

Trg-001a mounted ( still plan on making a heat shield to protect it from the front primary.

Battery mounted in trunk. (haven't removed plastic covering.

Front relay box relocated to drivers side oil cooler area. Mounting my oil cooler will be tight but doable

My new (to me) hood




Interior halfway put together.


I was planning on painting my tan panels black but after seeing how crappy They are I'm not even going to waste my time. I'll just replace them sometime down the road when I start fixing up the interior maybe when I install a roll bar.

The relay box under the driver side headlight has been relocated to allow more room for my oil cooler.

 

Remote battery posts. These are located on the pass side where the abs once was.

 

I got my master modified and was able to bleed it. (first functional pedal in quite a long time lol) I also made throttle cable bracket for my ls3 intake( had to slightly modify my fuel lines but it turned out well)
Some pics

Accusump mounted


Air pressure gauge relocated


Throttle cable bracket for ls3 intake with mazda throttle cable. I had to trim the gas pedal as well as adjust the cable but I now have 100% closed -100%wot. I also had to reroute my crossover fuel line. It used to have 2 90 degree fitting and ran behind the tb. Now it uses 2 straight fittings and runs in front of the tb. Still know issues with hood fitment.



Pedals ready for first start. Wilwood master would have been impossible to bleed w/o the mity vac I picked up. But the pedal is nice and firm now.


I wired up my fuel pump relays and was finally able to finalize my batt relocation. I now need to start collecting my coolant lines and pcv system. I already ordered my catch can and I'm about to scoop up a bronze shifter bushing to replace my trashed plastic one. My built tranny is already topped off with amsoil synthetic ATF and the diff is getting the some amsoil gear oil.

I'm hoping to attempt the first start this weekend.

 

Can you list the gauge sizes you used for your conversion?

love the look

 

Thanks

The gauges I used were:
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-609.htm
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-746.htm
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-473.htm
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-476.htm
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-606.htm
http://www.speedhut.com/custom_gauge...number-474.htm

 

I got my new oil catch can/pcv setup installed and after working through some wiring problems at the fuel pump I was finally able to get it to kick over.

http://youtu.be/bn3roEUfcSg

When I looked under the car I noticed a couple leaks so I shut it down. Turns out I didn't tighten 2 fitting on my oil cooler line as well as my fuel return line. I got those secured and all is well so far.

This thing sounds like a monster, I thought my open DP HBP REW was loud.... but this thing actually scared me when I fired up lol. I can't wait to get my exhaust system built so it won't vibrate the walls in the house lol.

 

Just a beauty, why the choice of the LS2?

 

Guyver01, I chose the ls2 over an ls1/6 because of the extra cubes and power potential. I chose is over an ls3/7 because of $. I chose it over a rotary because I wanted to try something new (to me). And I looked forward to making big power w/o having to worry about turbos/aux inj/ e85. Ect Plus I've never owned a v8 and I'm looking forward to his thing called torque.

 

Thank you for the reply, I will get my FD3 in December, It haves some problem with the rotors and Iam studying the possibility of swaping rigth after getting him. Your project are a inspiration for me.

Thanks and keep the good work.

 

No problem. Good luck with your FD and which ever way you chose to modify it. But don't count out a well setup rotary, I had an absolute blast with my 400+ rotary.

 

Yeah I know, I love the sound of the rotary, and the power you can get from it. But the problem is that Mazda don't have mechanics that support rotors engines in Portugal, the RX-7 was not selled in Portugal back then, but even when they selled the RX-8 and even the MX-5 10th aniversary edition, they don't give support for that kind of engine here So Iam getting the car and something under the bonnet that can easy fixed in this area in case of misfuction. Don't hate me purists If I had lived in USA or Japan, even UK believe me I would stay a rotary head.

 

I was considering a battery relocate and using remote posts. I take it they run to the starter?
Car looks good. Good luck wrapping it up.

 

RIP rx7

You will never be the same

To the owner, repent for your sins before it's too late, and put the heart back into your car

 

Thanks! And yes my positive post is routed to the starter but not directly.

Wires go from battery box in trunk:
Positive terminal---> circuit breaker--->remote post--->riverside fuse/relay block--->alternator---> starter

Negative post---> kill switch---> grounded under rear bin--->then ran up to pass fender with (+) cable--->grounded again at pass fender--->(-) remote post

I absolutely love this setup. the remote terminals are extremely easy to get to and were used to get this thing kicked over for my first start vid.