462 cubic inch big block chevy in a 1987 turbo 2 fc
08-28-10, 09:58 AM
#26
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ok im a novice on the digital camera thing --so i need a memory card? is that all ?i bought my kid a new nikon and she gave me her old one that i also bought--bought 2 never even used one --go figure?----im going to try to put some pictures on here in the next few days----the radiator is mounted and shes in there like a brick **** house.about time almost 2 damm months!! geesh!
08-28-10, 02:00 PM
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ask your daughter to help you, if your computer already has a spot to insert the memory card then that's all you'll need, otherwise you'll need a cable to connect your camera to your computer. Then use a sight like photobucket or flikr to upload your pictures and use the [img] photo name [/img] code to post them here.
08-28-10, 05:43 PM
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I'm excited bout those pics. You just put the memory card in the slot on your pc or it may use a mini usb cord. It would be confusing if you have never used one and did not have the instructions. KKMpunkrock2011 has the right idea. I am real curious to see how that stock rear likes the big block.
08-28-10, 06:17 PM
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me no ansel adams
well heres a few pictures i have no clue why some seem fuzzy and others are clear ---first time as a budding ansel adams----not!----waiting for the paint to dry on the radiator before i take a picture of that ---keepin at it---jason
08-28-10, 06:39 PM
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more pictures of the start of the 1987 rx7 fc 462 cubic inch big block car
well i hope that im getting the hang of the whole picture thing -not as bad as i thought--jason---still dont know how to look at them before i put them on here in the attach part of the post ----i guess i should keep up with the times more and break out of hermit mode----jason
08-28-10, 07:05 PM
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something will give
im real sure that the stock turbo 2 rear will be no match for the 500 foot pounds of torque at 4200 that my 462 puts out -but im going to give it a whirl anyways -no solid mounts on the diff.of rear subframe makes for some heavy wheel hop ill bet ---my last car was a 1987 gxl with a .06 over 327 muncie 4 speed gear drive big cam performer rpm intake headers --some goodies--but ill say a max of 330 h.p. -i beat on that car pretty good on the street and sold it under protest to my brother (he had to have it) soon as he ran it down cordovadragway one time that skimpy rear in that one gave in to the vht. and snapped an axle and broke off the drive right off into the the diff.on the drivers side.--jason
08-28-10, 09:17 PM
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the blue one was your last car and the white one is your current one correct?
there's a few reasons why your pictures come out blurry. As I'm sure you're using a cheap (relatively speaking) point and shoot camera I'll stick to why those turn out blury.
1) the camera can't focus on a specific part because it's either zoomed in too far or the camera is simply too close.
2) not enough light, when there's not enough light the part that actually takes the picture stays open longer to allow more light to pass and when it stays open longer it is more susceptible to movement. Movement creates the blur
there's a few reasons why your pictures come out blurry. As I'm sure you're using a cheap (relatively speaking) point and shoot camera I'll stick to why those turn out blury.
1) the camera can't focus on a specific part because it's either zoomed in too far or the camera is simply too close.
2) not enough light, when there's not enough light the part that actually takes the picture stays open longer to allow more light to pass and when it stays open longer it is more susceptible to movement. Movement creates the blur
08-29-10, 10:55 AM
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ya the blue one was my last one --and i think ya might be on the money about the camera --it has a night setting (its an ez share kodak i think)and i like cars and parts too much to spend anymore on a better one .ill talk nice to it and hope i get more clear pictures .--it does the job for now ---going to try to get my pc of alum.for in front of the rad.today for the latch and to hold the shroud .have to make brackets for the horn +see if the relays that go in front of the radiator clear that bar i will be making and a pc to block air from going under tha radiator.(there is a gap under the radiator for the relays and the horn wires)
08-29-10, 05:59 PM
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holy crap thats a gorgeous rad mount. I'm a little jealous of your shop. I am glad you posted pics now and I can make sense of what you are up to. I have never seen a big block fc this is exciting.
08-30-10, 02:06 PM
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well the place i get my alum.was finally open today --not 100 percent sure i like what i got -but im sure ill use it .i was thinking 1 by for the cross mount for the latch and shroud but i want it to be tight to the shape of the area in front of the radiator -the 1/4 by 4in angle will be handy for the shroud (planning on cutting away as much as possible )the shroud is attached on the bottom and only one bolt hole on the top .----ill take a picture with the radiator soon ..........where theres a will theres a way ---otherwise ill make it fit!----jason
09-01-10, 01:47 PM
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well heres the radiator that ate up 2 months so far of my time-all bolted in -next is the brace in front of the radiator for the latch and a bracket for the shrouds as well as a cover for that area-------ive have the idea of how the man brace is going to go in there just have to start millin and drillin------i hope the latch handle will work out cutting the handle off and shortening it because its going to be moved forward quite a bit---and the hook has to be moved as well ---jason
09-08-10, 10:42 AM
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well i got the cross bar for in front of the radiator done now i just have to figure out how to mount the latch for the hood and move the bail forward-should get interesting---ill look for a new camera this weekend ----jason
09-21-10, 07:21 PM
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well got the latch in there -had to revise the bar some and add a lot more support to it --getting a lil closer -also have been looking at better cameras---jason
10-04-10, 10:13 AM
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working on the latch for the hood right now and the crossbar that holds it -i believe there will be enough room to move the striker forward on the hood -im going to replace it with a shouldered stripper bolt (like what is used on die sets)its within .004 of the original diameter -still havent got a better camera yet--the latch has been moved 5 inches forward and it just clears the area that the relays use to bolt to in the front(moving them as well)--ill get some pictures up of that as soon as im happy with it.............jason
10-13-10, 10:32 AM
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still workin on the latch area --most of the time spent so far has been building supports and milling pockets and blocks to go inside of the 1 inch 6061 square 1/8 wall material that runs across to the latch ---the original sheet metal up front in that area isnt stiff enough for me so im going to attach off of the bumper brackets back to the radiator braces (the up rights in the picture)has to be very heavy duty to make me happy+not weigh a ton............jason-----
10-13-10, 12:20 PM
#44
oh one other thing ----the ls7 is not a big block its an alum.small block that they put in the z06 corvette and from what i have seen and heard -im going to stay away from those.-i hear and have seen that if you try to get too much h.p. out of one that the block breaks off at the rear where the bellhousing bolts on ! i always use a scatter shield and a block saver but i also stick to the old school stuff .the z06 vette engine is suppose to be rated at 550 h.p.-the main reason i wanted to build mine is to have a ton of low end power and not have to wind the motor to 6500 or better to get the power and because ive never seen one in an fc rx7(well one )it was a cobbled up drag car that some one cut up the sub frame to fit the motor in .its all in what a person likes and i know this site is very pro rotory--jason
But I have to disagree with that rumor of the block breaking. While it's not as strong as an ironblock, you're still going to make a ton of power before the block has problems in an LSx motor.
Also, I don't mind winding my motor out, it's such a light car it just feels like you've got torque everywhere in the powerband.
10-14-10, 03:10 AM
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stunt man mike ---that movie is something else !(deathproof)----i cant and wont slam the rotory engines -if it wasnt for them then the car wouldnt be here to put the big block in it .also i have seen a video of a car on you tube with a rotory that when it launched it look like it jumped in the air!to each is own -i just like light cars with a ton of power -too bad it takes so long to build em.--------jason
10-14-10, 07:52 AM
#46
stunt man mike ---that movie is something else !(deathproof)----i cant and wont slam the rotory engines -if it wasnt for them then the car wouldnt be here to put the big block in it .also i have seen a video of a car on you tube with a rotory that when it launched it look like it jumped in the air!to each is own -i just like light cars with a ton of power -too bad it takes so long to build em.--------jason
Oh, no I think you got the wrong idea, I have an LS1 in my car.
10-14-10, 10:23 AM
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ya i saw that (that yours has an ls1)--but even if it had a 500 caddy engine in it i have respect for anyone that goes for more power or something way off the beaten path-my last one had a muncie and a small block -gear drive highrise and ya it was fast but are they ever fast enough? i like the rx7 body and the way they handle -im sure that 685 pounds of big block will cut into the handling a wee bit -but the big block only weighs 165 pounds more than a cast iron small block -im sure the ls1 is much lighter -i seem to always take the road untraveled -built many cars always weird--i should put more pictures on here i guess(some people dont like to read )---looks like a really nice car(yours)-- i think im going to shell out the rear in mine soon after getting it going --i even looked at a jag the other day (for the rear) thank god im a machinist or i could never build the cars that i do.....jason
10-25-10, 09:59 PM
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working on a mechanism to operate the latch hook right now as the original handle was too long and hit the bracket for the relays -that has been cut off and im now using the other side -looked thru a book i have (507 mechanical movements by henery t brown)---old *** book.-came up with circular motion to linear motion linkage --in other words -made a block out of 7075 bored a hole thru it and made a naval brass 2 inch diameter wheel with a 3/8 bearing diameter next i will make 2 studs that are 180 degrees apart one that will push the latch with a 1/2 by 1/4 alum.arm and one that i will attach to operate the mechanism -i believe that the fact on a radius with 2 movable points and one fixed point that the mechanism will operate freely as the diameter will have the needed gain not to bind-still need to figure out the travel of the pins (have to know the diameter the pins are placed in to know the cercumferance that they will travel )---i guess i like to make things difficult?--oh i got the cross bar hooked up to the front nose support over the weekend and it came out very strong and cool looking .
10-31-10, 11:10 AM
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ok i got the latch mechanism working need to attach one more bar to it and the handle to operate it -then cover the top of the support on the passengers side ---i might take a picture of it soon ---(next 2 weeks) workin overtime and tryin to get something done on the car isnt easy -----jason
11-04-10, 03:23 PM
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i guess the one more bar wasnt good enough for me --if i were to do that then the second half of the mechanism would be on top of the cover of the radiator support - i have now decided that i want it on the underside for a clean look ---so now making a mechanism that will push pull on a right angle with a bar on a 45 degree angle to move a block on one side of the angle and the other at the same time .--jason