351w swap
#76
Senior Member
Well I care but am not sure what advice I can lend. I am going to be mounting a 302 in my SA chassis, but my or Project has borderline stalled out. So I you are further ahead than I am with my project.
Let me ask a few questions that may help me understand better.
Where is the hang up at?
You said your think your mounts are too wide, what is it affecting?
Any pictures of the interference?
Is the oil pan clearing the subframe/steering allowing the engine to come down all the way?
Let me ask a few questions that may help me understand better.
Where is the hang up at?
You said your think your mounts are too wide, what is it affecting?
Any pictures of the interference?
Is the oil pan clearing the subframe/steering allowing the engine to come down all the way?
#77
Let me ask a few questions that may help me understand better.
Where is the hang up at?
You said your think your mounts are too wide, what is it affecting?
Any pictures of the interference?
Is the oil pan clearing the subframe/steering allowing the engine to come down all the way?[/QUOTE]
well mounts so far are from summit
first were the stud style, second were the style below
when these are mounted on the block they measure at 19 3/4 wide from side to side . sub frame is 17 1/2 wide. i can get one side in but no way will it let the other side mount.
these are riveted together and i ground out the rivets to seperate the mounts. the bottom plate i cut the ears off and moved them 1" up .
bolted the 2 halves with grade 8 and i get 17 1/2 from side to side.
motor will drop into the subframe like this. so there must be another style of a mount that others have used .
this can only be done with out the front sump pan on . it hits the front of the subframe . so those who claim you need a front sump pan are wrong.
i now can not use the pan, pickup or dip stick, i had to order another saddle style pan pickup and dip stick from summit.
should be here on wensday
Where is the hang up at?
You said your think your mounts are too wide, what is it affecting?
Any pictures of the interference?
Is the oil pan clearing the subframe/steering allowing the engine to come down all the way?[/QUOTE]
well mounts so far are from summit
first were the stud style, second were the style below
when these are mounted on the block they measure at 19 3/4 wide from side to side . sub frame is 17 1/2 wide. i can get one side in but no way will it let the other side mount.
these are riveted together and i ground out the rivets to seperate the mounts. the bottom plate i cut the ears off and moved them 1" up .
bolted the 2 halves with grade 8 and i get 17 1/2 from side to side.
motor will drop into the subframe like this. so there must be another style of a mount that others have used .
this can only be done with out the front sump pan on . it hits the front of the subframe . so those who claim you need a front sump pan are wrong.
i now can not use the pan, pickup or dip stick, i had to order another saddle style pan pickup and dip stick from summit.
should be here on wensday
Last edited by GFRENCH; 10-16-16 at 08:12 PM.
#78
guys today got in a 8.8 rear end for this build.
i have been searching net and youtube for any video or help in regards to narrowing it.
plan is to totally rebuild it with a yukon locker or a spool not sure. 3.55 gears and 31 spline axles. i plan on 94-98 mustang calipers and disc. so hand brake can be used.
i have been searching net and youtube for any video or help in regards to narrowing it.
plan is to totally rebuild it with a yukon locker or a spool not sure. 3.55 gears and 31 spline axles. i plan on 94-98 mustang calipers and disc. so hand brake can be used.
#80
Senior Member
Cool, did you get the engine mounted? As far as narrowing it, you will want to cut the ends where the bearings mount off and leave enough to weld to, and then cut out what you don't need. I recommend making a jig or taking the parts to a machine shop so the faces are parallel to each other and you get a straight rear end
#81
Cool, did you get the engine mounted? As far as narrowing it, you will want to cut the ends where the bearings mount off and leave enough to weld to, and then cut out what you don't need. I recommend making a jig or taking the parts to a machine shop so the faces are parallel to each other and you get a straight rear end
well yes and no
just this afternoon the scott drake mustang mounts arrived.
tonight after work i removed the old mounts and installed the new ones.
these fit perfectly. so anyone watching this you need mounts listed for 68-76 mustang 302/351. these measure 17.5 from hole to hole wide.
i set the engine in just to see and bolts right up.i was so happy.
so i pulled it out again to paint the saddle pan ford blue. got the pan gasket on and all pan bolts in place. new timing set installed and cover as well. it's so close to winter and i'm running out of time.
as far as narrowing the housing , i'm not worried at all. a call to moser where at tech gave me the best help has me at ease.
the biggest stress is the back lash. never have done before and worried i will not be able to read the contact area in the paint correctly and know what to do to fix any issue.
watching a ton of youtube vids on this where eric the car guy was the best.
plan to build the rear end over winter when no car work can be done
#83
that is a killer lurking waiting to get loose.
i wish i could be there to see her move for the first time.
best of luck and please post here any pics of your choice.
i'm pretty much at the end of my work season. dark now at 6:30 and time changes back 1 hour this weekend so dark at 5:30.
here in canada snow is most likely only days away.
low in the morning will be -5c or 24ish f.
my goal was to have the engine in and running by this time.
issues with mounts , oil pan and paint took most of the time away.
was a wonderful time yesterday, motor is in
but i hit another road block with the flywheel. i think i have the wrong one. this one came from cj pony and is from a 89- 98 mustang for a 10.5 clutch. someone told me that these years are 50oz and 28 oz is needed. but if this is true and there are 28 and 50 oz dampers
what is the differance?
Last edited by GFRENCH; 11-04-16 at 08:26 PM.
#84
Junior Member
351w balance
Canada eh?, that's cold. I live in Florida and sometimes forget the rest of the world doesn't have 365 days to work on cars. lol
All 351W's are 28oz period.
302's were 28oz until mid 1985
302's 1985-1995 are 50oz balanced
You have to have a 28oz flywheel and balancer to make that motor work correctly. Using a 50oz flywheel on a 351w will destroy it.
To be safe just find a flywheel for ford small block pre-1985 and you should be fine.
I have a nice aluminum flywheel Id let you have it for free but its 0 balanced, wont work for you.
All 351W's are 28oz period.
302's were 28oz until mid 1985
302's 1985-1995 are 50oz balanced
You have to have a 28oz flywheel and balancer to make that motor work correctly. Using a 50oz flywheel on a 351w will destroy it.
To be safe just find a flywheel for ford small block pre-1985 and you should be fine.
I have a nice aluminum flywheel Id let you have it for free but its 0 balanced, wont work for you.
Last edited by brainsboy; 11-05-16 at 08:34 PM.
#87
Junior Member
I picked up a 302/t5 out of a running driving 88 mustang for $400 so thats what I'll be running . Just picked up the parts to convert it to carb. Probley going to use the granny kit.
#88
sounds great post some pics please as you go .
guys what are any of you doing for headers or steerbox removal.
tonight after work i was working on the 8.8 housing as in 13/16 steel expansion plug in the abs hole. tack welded it in and sprayed some black over it.
i have a set of dougs short tube headers . passengers side fits but steering box stops the drivers side .
so interested to hear what others have done
thanks
gordie
guys what are any of you doing for headers or steerbox removal.
tonight after work i was working on the 8.8 housing as in 13/16 steel expansion plug in the abs hole. tack welded it in and sprayed some black over it.
i have a set of dougs short tube headers . passengers side fits but steering box stops the drivers side .
so interested to hear what others have done
thanks
gordie
#89
Senior Member
You need something that dumps in the middle to get around the steering box. I think fox body headers may help you out in that regard? I used rams horns for my LT1, I'm sure there is something similar for Fords
#90
ok thanks andrew
the doug's are more angled towards the back and it's the #2 tube from the front that is issue.
i was looking at maybe a header diy kit that sends all the bends so i could fab a custom header for that side.
also i see some folks have removed the steer box for a rack & pinion set up.
not sure what road to take yet
the doug's are more angled towards the back and it's the #2 tube from the front that is issue.
i was looking at maybe a header diy kit that sends all the bends so i could fab a custom header for that side.
also i see some folks have removed the steer box for a rack & pinion set up.
not sure what road to take yet
#93
hi there andrew
yes it's ok right were it sits on a tarp like that . all winter i keep the snow off and cleaned all around.
sorry but what are talking about in regards to side plastic?
we are having a storm tonight with 40 cm of snow forcasted
91 prelude on the left of the rx7
yes it's ok right were it sits on a tarp like that . all winter i keep the snow off and cleaned all around.
sorry but what are talking about in regards to side plastic?
we are having a storm tonight with 40 cm of snow forcasted
91 prelude on the left of the rx7
#95
guys winter is sliding by and i'm starting to gather needed parts
got a edelbrock 1405 carb on order and stock manifolds to try to clear the steering box.
got a 105 amp alt now but water pumps i see are both clockwise and non clockwise.
water pump is giving me some issue , what rotation water pump to buy?
got a edelbrock 1405 carb on order and stock manifolds to try to clear the steering box.
got a 105 amp alt now but water pumps i see are both clockwise and non clockwise.
water pump is giving me some issue , what rotation water pump to buy?
#96
Senior Member
It is determined by your accessory drive belt configuration. It's my understanding that a serpentine belt is reverse rotation and v-belt is standard rotation. Standard rotation will spin clockwise and reverse rotation will spin counter clockwise.
#97
i understand now thank you
i could not see why there are 2 out there. forgot that same engine family went up to 95
i want to stay with just a v belt so clockwise is the one.
soon i will be working on the old maniflods. need to get them blasted .
i was looking at por15 cast iron high heat paint
any other suggestions ?
i could not see why there are 2 out there. forgot that same engine family went up to 95
i want to stay with just a v belt so clockwise is the one.
soon i will be working on the old maniflods. need to get them blasted .
i was looking at por15 cast iron high heat paint
any other suggestions ?
#98
guys
i received my 1405 carb and a air cleaner assembly. we are still very much in winter and a big storm is on the way for thursday. tonite i shoveled some to get to the hood latch and fitted the carb and cleaner fo a clearance test.
last fall when i got the engine mounted i noticed that it seemed to be close to the hood.
seems to be aprox 2 1/2 too tall for hood to close.
what have any of you done in this case?
i received my 1405 carb and a air cleaner assembly. we are still very much in winter and a big storm is on the way for thursday. tonite i shoveled some to get to the hood latch and fitted the carb and cleaner fo a clearance test.
last fall when i got the engine mounted i noticed that it seemed to be close to the hood.
seems to be aprox 2 1/2 too tall for hood to close.
what have any of you done in this case?
#99
Senior Member
guys
i received my 1405 carb and a air cleaner assembly. we are still very much in winter and a big storm is on the way for thursday. tonite i shoveled some to get to the hood latch and fitted the carb and cleaner fo a clearance test.
last fall when i got the engine mounted i noticed that it seemed to be close to the hood.
seems to be aprox 2 1/2 too tall for hood to close.
what have any of you done in this case?
i received my 1405 carb and a air cleaner assembly. we are still very much in winter and a big storm is on the way for thursday. tonite i shoveled some to get to the hood latch and fitted the carb and cleaner fo a clearance test.
last fall when i got the engine mounted i noticed that it seemed to be close to the hood.
seems to be aprox 2 1/2 too tall for hood to close.
what have any of you done in this case?
#100
thanks andrew
i was looking at some cowls and pics of some on goggle
i wish i didn't paint the hood now .
you would not believe the snow , 4 storms in the last 9 days
i had both prelude and rx7 all shoveled out and after yesterdays 47 cm snow fall
the back yard looks level as both cars are totally covered again
i will post a picture tomorrow in day light
i was looking at some cowls and pics of some on goggle
i wish i didn't paint the hood now .
you would not believe the snow , 4 storms in the last 9 days
i had both prelude and rx7 all shoveled out and after yesterdays 47 cm snow fall
the back yard looks level as both cars are totally covered again
i will post a picture tomorrow in day light