J.MurdaFCs3

I have some parts for my fc(87 TII). 3" custom downpipe, rtek 1.5, s5 turbo with ported wastegate, and actually thats about it.These parts are not currently on the car. This is my 4th rx7. I had two fb's, a n/a fc and now my TII. The thing is I need to maintain this car as my daily driver! I want it to be faster but reliable. I know...Oxymoron, but she runs great right now but is essentially stock (K'N CAI).

so heres where you all come in.
what would you do to a fc that is going to be a daily driver?
I just want some different setups so i can narrow down and get this thing to a reliable 230hp. Do-able in your opinion?(stress on reliable)

I know what people do to their cars, and I also know people are blowin engines left and right. I dont want to go through that. Its a rebuild, with great compression and about 8k on the rebuild(new s5 housings, reman rotors).

jmkogut

Want a good recommendation for a reliable TII?

Try to stay near stock. You won't like to hear it, but reliability is inversely proportional to the amount of modifications you make.

I'm not saying it's BAD to modify at all, and I'm not saying that this is the case for every modification. There are reliability mods. Those just don't get you more power though.

For you, more power is going to equal more boost. There's no way around that. More boost needs more fuel. It's a simple equation.

You need a fuel controller, ported wastegate, a free flowing exhaust, and that's as far as you should go if you're concerned about reliability. I believe you're limited to around 9lbs of effective intake pressure using the S5 turbo.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Upgrade to a Rtek 1.7, get two 720cc injectors, get a walbro or a FD fuel pump, and a boost controller. You'll be able to run 12 PSI on the turbo if you want, which will put you at about 300bhp. This is exactly the setup on my vert, which is my daily.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

^^That would be a good setup but i highly doubt it would get you anywhere near 300bhp on stock ports. Add a FMIC to that equation and you might be looking at 230 whp at 12 lbs of boost.

jmkogut

I guarantee you're not making 300HP on that setup alone with stock ports. Even with a mild street port, or full street port I don't see how it would be easy to get that amount of power.

13bpower

On my last TII I built a high compression (9.4 rotors) streetport and ran it with RC engineering 750cc secondary injectors, Rtek 1.7, full exhuast, intake, Walbro, ect. I was at about 275 at the flywheel. This was completely reliable. Reliable because I did all the work myself and didn't cut any corners. I ran it like this for over a year and 15k hard miles without a single problem before I sold it to my friend after I bought my 350z.

Do all the recommended maintanence -> spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, clean injectors, non-clogged cats (or straight pipe), stainless steel OMP lines, stainless steel oil cooler lines, oil temp gauge, coolent temp gauge, boost gauge, Emissions removal.... these are all things I did with reliability in mind.

The FC can be reliable if you replace worn parts and don't cut corners. Unfortunately most owners don't have the disposable $$ to do all that and would rather buy a $1000 exhaust before all the maintance stuff I listed above.

Good luck.

J.MurdaFCs3

I'm trying to see what it takes to make a car reliable. not run for a year with no problems after a brand new rebuild. That should be standard. I want a 230hp TII that will last for 80k+. hopefully 130k+. Most these post suggest full exhaust,but if I put full exhaust on it, that will require a whole fuel system upgrade,plus alot more supporting mods. Money is not the issue but I'm looking for a hybrid set up(stock/aftermarket) to keep it close as stock to possible and still put down some hp.

Im thinking possibly a custom OEM replica dp, with new cat and pre cat, with RB cat back. Along with cleaned primaries and 680cc secondaries from a gsl-se high flowed and tested. Boosting about 8 or 9lbs.I dont know if this will give me 230hp tho??

13bpower

Should is right I've seen more rebuilds come out running like crap than a rotorhead can take.

Get an intake, a downpipe, a FD fuel pump, a catback, FCD, MBC, port your wastegate and turn the boost to 10. There you are at about 230 bhp. Want to make it safer and add HP, install a FMIC.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Some suggestions if you want more power reliably:

-Stay with the stock turbo if you just want 230whp. They're easy to replace and cheap. It's doable if you can do these:
-Free flowing exhaust (cat or no cat, your choice) I have the RB 2.5in Turboback
-Ported wastegate to eliminate or atleast minimize any boost creep
-Upgrade your radiator, make sure the cooling system is in good shape
-Fix any vacuum leaks!
-Walbro, or Supra fuel pump
-Invest in a good boost controller
-All the little things like fuel lines, fuel pump wiring, engine grounds, etc.

For management, there are many roads you can take, I personally went with a standalone and had it tuned for drivability, power, and fuel economy. I don't have experience with the RTek ecu's, so I don't have any input on that.

With all that, I'm netting ~230 to the wheels, with 19-20mpg combined (compared to 10-11 before the tune). I put about 600 miles a month on the car, since I DD it to school. My tune paid for itself after a month, right when gas prices started to skyrocket.

If I missed anything, let me know!

J.MurdaFCs3

So my final decision on the "DD" setup:

>3" dp and test pipe, stock from the test pipe back (free/already have)
>Rtek 1.5(free/already have)
>550cc Pri, 720cc secondaries( $180 for the Venom 720cc)
>s5 turbo w/ ported wastegate(free/already have)
>Walbro or some aftermarket Fuel Pump(there are others that claim to be quieter than Walbro off ebay??($90-$150)
>Get it tuned...(8/9psi)($150)
>DAMMIT! I guess I need I need a EBC($280)
All this to happen in the next month...(am I forgetting anything besides gaskets?)

TOTAL: approx $650+/-

in the two months to follow:
Radiator
FMIC
SAFC II

230 reliable hp??

fonzi581

iTrader: (1)

What's the point to get an SAFC II in the next two months if you already have an Rtek? The Rtek controls fuel and ignition so an SAFC II would seem pointless in my eyes. Correct me if I'm wrong

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

The Rtek 1.5 controls neither fuel nor timing. The 2.0 however, does it all. You'll need an SAFCII to control fuel. Until you get that you will have to wait on the tune. http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=1&ecu=S4T2

Also, forget about the Venom injectors, go with something else.

J.MurdaFCs3

MaczPayne...Thank you for explaining that to him.

Whats wrong with venom? what do suggest instead?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Low mileage and stock T2 or vert. Stock to the filter. **** daily driving modded cars anymore, sick of it.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/selecting-fuel-injectors-s5-tii-792504/

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/venom-720cc-injector-problems-508156/

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

Your list looks pretty solid, I would only change a few things. First off, I read you could be interested in a hybrid turbo. Look into a BNR turbo, it's the stock turbo modified. The stage 1 sounds like it would fit your needs, but if you want to net 300hp go for the stage 2 or 3. http://www.bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm

Secondly, don't spend money on the safc II. You can get the rtek 2.1 that will tune your fuel and timing, along with a whole **** load more of stuff. The rtek 2.1 will be cheaper then the 1.5 and safc II put together. So sell the 1.5 chip or with ecu, find another ecu and get the rtek 2.1. The outcome will be worth it. Good luck. http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S4T2

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

I used my TII as a DD for a while...ran flawlessly for me on this setup:

720cc pri / 1000cc secondaries
S5 TO4E hybrid turbo
Aggressive streetport
9lb chromoly flywheel
OMP blockoff
Fluidyne radiator
ACT extreme clutch kit
Microtech LT8 EMS

Ran without a hitch. And any issues I had were very minor.
When i was still on the stock injectors/turbo, I was averaging 24-26 MPG on the freeway.
After the injector upgrade/hybrid turbo install and a good tune, I maintained about 20-22 MPG on the freeway...and the car was sitting somewhere around 320whp...

If you build it right...and don't skimp on ****, then you'll have no issues DDing a 300 whp car.

J.MurdaFCs3

To each his own. I personally think my car is clean as hell!

I know what a hybrid and what a stage 1,2,3.. are capable of. I have a rebuilt ported s5 which is good enough for me.I appreciate the help but Im not a noob. The purpose of the thread is to see what alternatives are out there besides "turbo back exh,1000cc+ sec, and standalones" .a setup that will have it quick, but most importantly factory quality reliability.
Overall people are saying no short cuts=a reliable setup. talking to a FEW rotor specialist, they all said "if you put exhaust on it, it will "pop". including the handful of friends and people i know who have blown motors before.I think i just need to keep the boost under 10lbs and it should be ok.
I originally bought the rtek 1.5 because I didnt want it faster. Things changed...the 2.1 is sounding good

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

I'm sorry that was just funny. Maybe I could see the exhaust being the problem to motors popping if you don't port your wastegates.

I would agree.... If you meant exhaust is the stepping stone to excessive hp, and running high boost.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Nice car, looks like mine when it was still S4.

J.MurdaFCs3

I talked to this mechanic. he was saying I shouldnt have a prob with boost spike with a 2.5" dp.but a 3"dp will, and could make it go POP!. personal experiences?

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

PREACH ON BROTHAA

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

i have the the stock turbo on my car. Im running a haltech stand alone and stock injectors but an upgraded fuel pump and remanufactured injectors.
i have 256 horsepower to the wheels, so like 300+ to the flywheel. youll def be able to reach 230Horsepower while staying in the safe zone.

just upgrade your fuel accesories such as injectors/fuelfilter/fuel pump. and get a computer management system. They are pricey but you can fine fairly priced ones. like an rtek like stated above. even though a fuel stand alone is the safest route.

230 horsepower will def be fun to drive. just have fun with it man.
peace

myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

150$ for a tune in cali! where are you getting it tuned.. i would like to know, thats a ridiculously cheap price. sounds fishy

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Depends on how restrictive your exhaust is. If you're running a DP -> Presilencer -> muffler, then yes, a 2.5 system will make you boost creep.