When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
No thanks those are Chinese cheap imitation stuff.
defiantly not china crap! you are misinformed as usual.. they are made locally to order per customers specs.. took 2 weeks to get mine made and i picked up almost 22 rwhp! awesome product
defiantly not china crap! you are misinformed as usual.. they are made locally to order per customers specs.. took 2 weeks to get mine made and i picked up almost 22 rwhp! awesome product
defiantly not china crap! you are misinformed as usual.. they are made locally to order per customers specs.. took 2 weeks to get mine made and i picked up almost 22 rwhp! awesome product
I'm not misinformed perhaps you are one his followers side kicks friends and he gave you a good deal so you come here to post a good referral about his junk product,Perhaps you are not aware Rotary Shack is banned from this forum for scamming members of this forum. . I'm well Informed If not take a look its name under the Bad and Fugly Business Section.
Well Still need to dyno mine, but I have a 6-port 87 NA with about 106,000 miles right now... When It was stock it was OK in acceleration and little to no low rpm throttle response or torque... With Headers, FULLY open straight pipes with no cats or resonators or mufflers just pipes from the header back and some tips, K&N Filter and just your normal oil changes and taking care of the car like a baby, it is a BEAST now!!! I have driven many cars and this car is NOT slow by any means.... The exhaust is not some exhaust from a website or some chrome stuff, it was designed by me and a exhaust shop and the headers were created from a header flange. I also removed the 02 sensor (SAME gas mileage so it probably has not worked in a while). But yea BIG BIG BIG difference in every way.. I have GREAT throttle response in the low end now... 2000 rpms and up it responds well! 4000 rpms it takes off like a rocket!! My Buddy has a S5 rx7 with paperwork stating a rebuild and We were neck and neck with his exhaust open almost like mine, he literally didnt pass me an inch and I swear by the end of 3rd gear I was pulling a little.. Maybe because My K&N filter idk..... This was before the headers that I have now.... My other buddy has a S5 Turbo II (Either S4 or S5 I dont remember) and well we went for a ride in his car and he was only getting 4 psi boost (yes it needs work), But yea it was SLOW!!! I was like omg this is what a turbo II does..... did not feel much faster than my NA if any faster..... Maybe severe issues i dont know.... That was my first ride in a turbo II with full exhaust and intake and boost controllers and bla bla and it was TOTALLY disappointing.....
But yea thats my 2 cents... K&N Filter, remove the ENTIRE stock exhaust, remove the exhaust manifold, remove 02 sensor, add custom headers from a flange, add 2.5 inch exhaust from the header back (I kept my dual exhaust), Put some nice tips like $35 for both tips (I said nice not expensive!! :p) change your oil OFTEN, 87 Octane.. Makes a fun rx7! Total Cost around $285.....
I did MULTIPLE exhaust designs trying to get it right and spent over $400 trying different designs... so I spent like about $700, but what I wrote above works WELL for me!
NOW, I WARN you now!!! It will be STUPID loud, like a drag car or something... I mean literally it will get you pulled over....EASY.. I did lol.... You can get a ECV (Exhaust Control Valve) to limit the noise substantially, OR you can get aluminum screen mesh $13, Steel Wool (Yes initial fire..) or something similar $10, and some plumbing clamps that you use a flat head screw driver to tighten and stuff your exhaust with the steel wool.... $3 Use about 8-15 small steel wool pads per pipe.... Yes sounds stupid and it would be IF you didnt have exhaust coming out, But My Exhaust has port holes for it near the end letting most the noise go down instead of straight back. This setup makes the headers with straight pipes drivable on the street!! I drive it daily with this setup and as long as you dont floor it, its not that bad at all!!!... You might lose some power if any depending on your setup.... I dont feel ANY power loss... but no dyno so idk,,,,.
Hm, well thanks everyone for the advice, i should be getting to work soon.. now im very determined, but have heard enough to know that no matter what the car will be fun and fast (not that i ever doubted that haha)
^That dyno graph looks all sorts of wrong... why is the crossover at 3k RPM? Also shouldn't you have more than 60 hp at 3k rpm?
The crossover is irrelevant as its the way the graph has been scaled with the hp on one side and torque on the other, And I think 60hp is around about right for a bridgeport its not much above idle as it idles at around 1800rpm
why only 6k+ on the RPM's? why aren't you reving that thing?
When the owner went for a tune he didnt have enough gas in the tank to spend the time on it and I tink they ran out of gas before they had time to tune it in the higher revs, I don't think the tuner was very interested either, I have looked at the ignition map and it hasnt had alot of time spent on it, the owner was going to get it retuned this time properly but he is in Australia working and the car is here at his parents house in New Zealand so he may do it on a trip home
i'd like to see what numbers defined autoworks managed on their tuned manifolds. another that worked ok but not available any longer were the mindtrain headers.
It varies a bit, our headers perform best when the porting style is aggressive or best yet when using our porting templates. For example on stock ports the gain is pretty small vs. a racing beat system.
The 6-port is limited to about 200rwhp unless the stock intake is switched out. Its simply way too long. Designed for torque in the 4-5k range, and we all know top end torque is needed to net 200+.
Rotary evolution you already know, but are totally correct on the intake. This is why properly setup, Banzai made 200rwhp with stock ports. The ports are already too big vs. the long intake. Chain is only as strong as the weakest link...
The 6-port with aftermarket intake is still at a disadvantage, it closes too late and has a bad reversion wave going up the wrong direction. The stock intake uses a loop system to try and "charge" the opposite rotor. Once a short aftermarket intake is fitted the loop system is not in place. Just bad reversion at that point.
The 4-port is king in my opinion, much better, broader, more powerful powerband. This is our 230rwhp street port 4-port engine for comparison, daily driven, very quiet. Note 130rwtq at 3500 and 153rwtq peak.
It varies a bit, our headers perform best when the porting style is aggressive or best yet when using our porting templates. For example on stock ports the gain is pretty small vs. a racing beat system.
The 6-port is limited to about 200rwhp unless the stock intake is switched out. Its simply way too long. Designed for torque in the 4-5k range, and we all know top end torque is needed to net 200+.
Rotary evolution you already know, but are totally correct on the intake. This is why properly setup, Banzai made 200rwhp with stock ports. The ports are already too big vs. the long intake. Chain is only as strong as the weakest link...
The 6-port with aftermarket intake is still at a disadvantage, it closes too late and has a bad reversion wave going up the wrong direction. The stock intake uses a loop system to try and "charge" the opposite rotor. Once a short aftermarket intake is fitted the loop system is not in place. Just bad reversion at that point.
The 4-port is king in my opinion, much better, broader, more powerful powerband. This is our 230rwhp street port 4-port engine for comparison, daily driven, very quiet. Note 130rwtq at 3500 and 153rwtq peak.
That's very impressive, almost unheard of power no? Logan, any pictures of the engine bay?
not unheard of for a 4 port n/a no, the 6 port engines simply have too many things going against them for larger numbers which Logan went on to explain.
to make close on a 6 port block would require a custom intake manifold/throttle body, or fill in the crappy ports and peripheral port it.
the MSP managed about as much as a refined 6 port engine could do with the exception being that the auxiliary ports are twice as big as the early engines and have tuned sleeves for improved airflow.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Sep 3, 2013 at 04:40 PM.
not unheard of for a 4 port n/a no, the 6 port engines simply have too many things going against them for larger numbers which Logan went on to explain.
to make close on a 6 port block would require a custom intake manifold/throttle body, or fill in the crappy ports and peripheral port it.
the MSP managed about as much as a refined 6 port engine could do with the exception being that the auxiliary ports are twice as big as the early engines and have tuned sleeves for improved airflow.
Thanks for the clarification. Since I am new to trying to understand the difference between a 2nd gen 4 port motor and a 6 port motor (I understand the obvious in ports on the irons), is there a link/thread you could point me in the direction of that would better explain it? For an N/A motor. Thanks!
somewhere in one of these threads i mentioned that i did that, and didn't get alot of attention, but yeah... i did the primary ports only leaving the outside irons factory. the seals clear it, but the housings/apexseals i had were no good, that motor wouldn't even start on it's own, or rev over 5k.... gonna reuse the middle plate with my next build,a semi pp with all side ports working.. pretty much gonna copy define's 428hp 20b.... sorry guys. i'm a theif.
Trying to do some learning, so don't mind this thread necro.
The four port engines are the SA13B, correct? For these >200Hp numbers, are people using carbs? FI? ITB's? Could I consider using my stock S5 intake manifolds with a standalone fuel injection system?
On this note, why wouldn't someone just bridge the aux to the main ports on a 6 port iron, could this be done? Would it be beneficial? Since I'd be planning to run without the AUX valves anyways.
I have been searching this crap for weeks, and I give up, so now I'm asking.
Last edited by Saavedro88; Nov 17, 2015 at 10:07 PM.
On this note, why wouldn't someone just bridge the aux to the main ports on a 6 port iron, could this be done? Would it be beneficial? Since I'd be planning to run without the AUX valves anyways.
been done. you can find other that did them and observe their results and maybe find the mistakes or issues that resulted in the less then desired performance. the port isnt the problem it's the intake.
Rotary evolution you already know, but are totally correct on the intake. This is why properly setup, Banzai made 200rwhp with stock ports. The ports are already too big vs. the long intake. Chain is only as strong as the weakest link...
and you want to make them bigger? no, just get some 4 port housings if you're going to make your own intake manifold... if you plan on using the factory N/a intake.. why even bother.
as far as carb vs EFI everyone setup is different. but EFI is the way to go.. unless you're asking a first gen guy. or a 12a guy.
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; Nov 22, 2015 at 09:37 AM.
So assume I go fuel injected. Would I need a standalone EMS to push out around 200 HP? I had been looking into running a Power FC, but I don't see where anyone makes a harness for an NA setup, only the Turbo engines.
Our adapters work on both N/A and turbo, the same. The 200rwhp car referenced in this thread is running the PFC and our S5 adapter. We have tuned N/A base maps that are set up for vacuum only APEXi Power FC Adapter Kit (89-91 RX-7)
Alright guys. Finally, I've got my stock 6 port itb set up tuned. Ended up with 169.6 max hp. Let me know if you think there is room for improvement without cracking the engine open and what can be done.
NOTE: I had to trace the lines with a pencil because the lines didn't print well. I'm not hiding anything, nor did I modify the graph in anyway. I'm waiting for an electronic file from the tuner to prove this.
Who has the highest horsepower NA 6-port
. I'm well Informed If not take a look its name under the Bad and Fugly Business Section.
You can get a ECV (Exhaust Control Valve) to limit the noise substantially, OR you can get aluminum screen mesh $13, Steel Wool (Yes initial fire..) or something similar $10, and some plumbing clamps that you use a flat head screw driver to tighten and stuff your exhaust with the steel wool.... $3 Use about 8-15 small steel wool pads per pipe.... Yes sounds stupid and it would be IF you didnt have exhaust coming out, But My Exhaust has port holes for it near the end letting most the noise go down instead of straight back. This setup makes the headers with straight pipes drivable on the street!! I drive it daily with this setup and as long as you dont floor it, its not that bad at all!!!... You might lose some power if any depending on your setup.... I dont feel ANY power loss... but no dyno so idk,,,,.
