well I got a chance to get on the dyno yesterday and I put down 147.4 with no tuning. i am having a lot of problems in the higher RPMS with braking up and falling flat on its face here is a chart i have a couple vids if i knew how to load them i would but let me get some ideas where to start. I could NOT get it over 6k it just fell out. here is a chart let me know where to start. thanks Eric

 

my semi-educated guess is grounding, that seems to be the main cause of high rpm break up

 

im going to run a 0 gauge wire on friday front the motor to the body any other ideas for me to do on friday?

 

4 guage battery to body(strut bar tower) another from there to alternator, then one from the back of the engine to the tranny. bigger battery, check alternator as a weak or barely funtioning one can hurt ignition, of corce this is assume you have done a 100k mile tune up,.

 

yeah i have most of them grounds covered i am going to run another bigger one from engine to body and then i will do the alternator wire one. the battery is bigger that what is supose to be in there and the alternator is new i will take it and have it tested. i might have to get it built up some b.c im running an efan and msd box and i think its pulling some of the volts. the safc2 says im only getting like 13 at full throtle. thanks for the help guys

 

not bad. what mods???

 

exhaust, intake

 

When you did your run, where you not able to go faster than 105mph? I take it you were doing a 4th gear pull, cause it's closest to 1:1 right? If you do that, and you enter into the Dyno your HP@50, which calculates your hp loss at each MPH, alot of times the Dyno Drum will resist your wheels more than it actually would if you were on the road doing 105mph. Since it's just an estimate. So you enter in that wind/drivetrain losses are 20 hp at 50 mph (this information is available at www.epa.gov/otaq/crttst.htm and http://www.mustangdyno.com/downloads..._Dyn_specs.htm) then the dyno calculates that your car needs like 150 Hp to do 110mph, so in your case, you wouldn't go any faster, the dyno wouldn't let you.
Impressive Numbers by the way.


--edit--
I can't get the mustang one to work. Just search Mustang Dynamometer.

 

thanks for the info needa13b. im going to do alot of regrounding and send my injectors out to be cleaned and a couple other things and then get back on the dyno and see if i can get it to go past 6k.

 

you should port & polish your uim&lim while youre that far into taking it apart. should fee up some more power.

 

i might look into that. any idea how much it costs?

 

if you do it yourself it as cheap as buying the bits to do it. im almost positive its in the 2nd gen. archives.

 

Also do the pull in 3rd .

That's my stupid advice for the day.

 

why 3rd?

 

well i ran a new ground from my engine block to the body and put in a new leading coil pack and that didnt do anything so this comeing week im going to take my injectors out and send them to be cleaned and see if that helps

 

Not bad. Im expecting 175 out of my S5 Carburated engine, stock ports too.

 

yeah thats kind of my goal on all motor before i throw the bottle in the back.

 

Damn i wish there was a chassis dyno around here, all we have is engine dynos. Arnt you supposed to run a ground from the battery to the block, I thought I read that somewhere.

 

Have you replaced your fuel filter in the last 20K? This often causes problems.

Cheers
Michael Smith

 

yeah it was prob about 10k ago or so but thanks for the idea.

 

the main sources of my ignition breakup were plugs & wires and timing advanced too far

 

Just a note. I was told by the HEAD mechanic at RR & R in Santa Ana that for the most accurate dyno numbers they run ALL cars in 3rd unless the make over 300 RWHP. Then it is a 4th gear pull. Link to shop will tell the type of dyno, I cant remember. www.rotaryracing.com.

 

yeah i dyno'd mine in 3rd per Kahren's recommendation