First time out with the FC
 

20psi. S5 street port. OSGiken twin plate, T66 96a/r p-tim, SSAC front mount with water injection. 225/50/15 BFG drag radials. (old and 95% worn out) 2715lbs with me in the car. Right lane.

i wish my car ran 11's. not bad dude

fair play mate going good. i want to get mid twelves this year (might need some help i've got a tow rope)

Nice MPH :icon_tup: with a better 60' that car could see 10's no problem.
well done.

Here's a few vids of the run.
http://www.putfile.com/sleeper7
You can see I was shifting slow at 7000rpms. The motor only had 1-1.5 hours of run time since put together so I was taking it easy.

I think the next time out it will do a 10 second pass, hope anyways. (Now that I said that, the motor will let go.) Replaced the OSGiken twinplate set up for the heavier stock flywheel with ACT clutch kit. Also replaced the rear tire. from some worn out BFGs to MT Streets. Also got some good rear shocks on it now. also increasing the boost to 25psi. But keeping the tune at 10.2afrs.

chuck

good good

nice car, im amazed at how well those afrs are.

The gauge thats in the lower right is not the afr gauge, it's the air temp gauge. Sorry. I mounted the air temp gauge sensor in the LIM to see how well the water injection was working.
The afr gauge in on the gauge cluster. The three in the middle are, from left to right, fuel pressure, boost and egt.

where in sa are u

damn.. Too bad you aren't in Tucson, I could use some competition.

Can I ask why you swapped out the OS giken clutch? I've got the same twinplate in my FC I think (although its 6 puck and unsprung). It's a bit of a prick to drive, but seems to cope with any abuse I can give it.. it's only got about 2mm of meat left on it, so I'm deciding whether to rebuild it or to go with something else.

Weight of the stock flywheel is better suited for drag racing, IMO. For street stuff the OSGiken is great. Just did'nt like it at the track.

J-Rat, anything big happening your way over the summer. 1/4 mile?

Nothing noteworthy except NOPI in Phoenix in March. Tucson's drag way is the worst in the country, bar none. My car may be at NOPI, assuming the roll bar, new turbo, and other goodies are ready.

buy that bobo bolt in roll cage from ebay...

OH and how r you running to much boost without... controlling timing....

20 psi on a t66 without timing.... is that safe?

^^^

Translation please?

Translation:

You should get that the bolt-on roll cage that someone sells on EBay.

Oh, and, question: How are you running so much boost, with no timing control?

20 psi on a T66 doesn't seem safe without a way to control timing.

I cant speak for the thread starter, but I am sure he is on an EMS like me. They have timing control.

Bolt in cages are NOT NHRA legal.

Hey J-rat I thought you were going to come out to california for some competition.
What happened to that?
I know of a couple quick 7's out here.

No timing controll for me. SDS is a fuel only ECU. I use a unlocked 1st gen dizzy.

that's what i did for a long time in my old turbo 12a setups :) worked fuggin great!

I have always liked when people use those 12-t distributers. I bet it does work great!

Nice!

No 12a-T dizzy. just a stock n/a one.
The stock dizzy has a full mech advance of 19-22 deg. So if you set your timing on the leading marks of a turboII crank pulley which is -5before TDC. Your total advance will be in the area of 14-17deg Before TDC. I run between 17-21deg before TDC at 20 and up PSI. Been doing this for years.

exactly! there is no point in trying to locate a 12a-T distributor... a non-turbo 12a one is best :D

well crap. how reliable is this? i might just grab me a dizzy and build me a ginnypig engine=)

I set my timing at 4000rpms when the mechanical advance is at it's max (18deg BTDC) and let the idle timing fall were ever it wants. I do not use the vacuum advance part of the distributor.
Can't get any easier than that.