MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, Justin. I dare that kid to come back in this thread, but I think his lack of proof of what he said scares him off.... Thanks for the props on actually racing it, even if it was just a spur-of-the-moment recreational thing... I'm sure I'll do it again at some point. Honestly, I may try running with a stock air box and K&N filter next time, and see how that works....

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Jaret, thank you to be one of the first people in here to give a noteworthy amount of useful advice. The first time, the launch was really bogging down (I freaked out and tried to launch at 1500 rpms), and the second time I was far too slow coming off the clutch. I'll definitely focus on the launch next time at the track, as I agree with you that my 60' is what kills me the most. I know you're one of our best drag guys; what do you think I should be aiming for?

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

dude, go there with me on Wednesday two or three weeks from now!

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, Mario. I think you're runinng some slightly better mods than I am, but I'm aiming to make it into the 16s next time.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

dicks are rubber, and my mother is BlowinRod89??

And you are NOT stock... you're using a horsepower with an extra 10% power right off the bat, not to mention your other mods. Plus, like the next guy said, regarding you running faster:
[ ] Timeslip
or
[ ] It never happened, so GTFO

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

On street tires you should be shooting for the 2.2-1.8 range. Dont let anyone say 1.8 cant be done on street radials because I did it. Also, dont think you are going to take your car out to the strip and just start ripping off perfect passes because its not going to happen. It takes ALOT of practice. I have been drag racing the same FC since before 90 percent of the people here had licenses, and I am still learning how to get the perfect launch.

What you should be looking for is a minimum of clutch slippage with MILD hazing of the tires coming out of the hole. Sound easy enough?...

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Well I know my N/A RX7 will run into the 11's on drag radials, 10's on spray...

In all seriousness though, those times aren't terrible at all, especially with the 60' time. I'd expect a nice mid 16 on a better launch out of your car. Any of the guys claiming 14s on a bone stock car or whooping an Integra stock v. stock, needs to rethink their take on "reality".

rowtareh?

iTrader: (1)

Without porting I don't see an N/A RX-7 going into the 14's, unless you are really really good. Look at the guys pushing 500+rwhp. They are not going to consistantly run the same time, stuff does happen.


Collin, it's no problem brother. Just keep practicing and see what you can do. Just wait until the "you know what" comes home, I will take it to the track I think and see what it runs. I am going to predict 18's.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

No.


-Ted


Yeah, I know I'm losing most of my time on the launch... I'll re-read this before the next time I hit the track. Thanks, Jaret!

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Whooping and Integra stock vs. stock is totally believable to me... but beating an Integra that's turbod and runs low 14s with a stock n/a is like trying to stick your **** in a toaster.... Yeah, you may have the general idea of what you're trying to do where, but God knows you're going about it the entirely wrong way.....

And you're using what kind of V8?

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Just a 5.3L pickup truck engine with a little work done to it.

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

ive got almost the same modifications done to my car... i should hit the track soon and see if i post up close to the same numbers

glhs0867

I have 2 old time slips from when I ran 1/8 mile.. I never save these things, nor do I ever post vids or scans of proof..because people still manage to claim BS, however. I do have 1 slip that says on it..9.7 @ 72.99 mph..thats with a 60' time of 2.3 or more..with street tires..

I have another slip, when I blew the clutch coming out of 2nd gear..no 3rd at all.

.069
2.329
6.477
9.948
66.19

I coasted through the end of the race.

So you guys need to hammer those N/A RX7s to make them run!

I only have 2 slips saved..most times I always run into 14s..in the quarter!

Flame suit is now on.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Your car isn't stock.

Stock RX-7's don't weigh 2000 lbs.

loudazzrx7

iTrader: (6)

All Motor RX-7s (full body, no turbo, no nitrous)

1/4
Mile 1/4
MPH 1/8
Mile 1/8
MPH 60' CAR MOTOR DRIVER TEAM DATE TRACK
14.190 96.07 9.21 2.149 FC3S 13B Roy Baber 10/6/00 Crofton, MD
14.388 93.82 9.161 74.97 1.9652 SA22C 13B Craig Nishioka Non-Ported 12/6/00 San Antonio, TX
14.449 91.39 9.188 74.47 1.974 SA22C 13B Keith Wise 7/23/00 Norwalk, OH
14.901 90.55 9.578 73.31 2.172 FC3S 13B Rocky Jr. RX-7.COM 11/14/99 Ennis, TX
14.942 92.61 9.579 72.59 2.190 SA22C 13B Mark Halama 7/23/00 Norwalk, OH
15.197 90.68 9.728 71.94 2.206 FC3S 13B Justin Hornbuckle 1/25/00 Huntsville, AL
15.348 91.86 9.954 71.63 2.282 FC3S 13B Michael Gallagher 7/21/99 Orlando, FL
15.72 89.62 10.17 69.85 2.323 FC3S 13B J.D. Duncan Sr. 3/31/01 Xenia OH
15.624 88.14 10.000 68.79 2.237 FC3S 13B Dennis Morton 8/27/00 Atco,NJ
16.602 83.51 10.657 65.17 2.331 FC3S 13B Brian Cole 9/9/00 Ennis, TX
16.811 81.85 10.752 64.23 2.319 FC3S 13B Coors Lynch 4/14/00 Wall, TX

you can see the list at
http://www.rx7.com/racing/content/times.html
this was back in 2000 with my 86 gxl It was my best time in the n/a and it was with some bad wheel spin.Car had full interior the motor was not stock but she was all n/a

loudazzrx7

iTrader: (6)

like I said from 2000 the list is 8 years old

ShadowArtsFC3S

iTrader: (2)

That is what your suposed to do. Hard shifting is for noobs. I havent brought my N/A FC to the track yet. I think it would do pretty well. I dont really have any intrest in drag racing though. I'm with you on the circuit racing. I'm really intrested with drifting, and I feel that is what the 2nd gen was made for. (in my opinion) Keep it up though. Showing what the N/A RX-7's are made of! woot!

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

THREAD NECROMANCY!

Naw, actually, that sounds harder than Rowtarded's **** last night.

Thanks a ton for the advice; I actually just posted in your most recent drag thread. While drag racing isn't the kind of racing I'd do if I had my choice and the money to build a car for the circuit, I'd like to get better at it. Anyways, I have a TON of respect for you as one of the best 2nd gen drag guys. Always good to hear your thoughts, man!

I'll head back to the strip next summer, after I get a few minor issues worked out. I should be using fresh tires, maybe ones that are even a little sportier than the current ones. I'd love to get my launch improved, and pray that I don't break anything in the process

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure that I'd agree with you about 2nd gens being for drift; the handling of the cars is very neutral, and while a skilled driver can drift one, it's comparatively difficult when looking at an FC vs a 240SX, or other cars in the same vein.

If you're interested in racing at all, you should try drag at least once; it will make you SO much more aware of how important each shift is in any kind of racing. How ever important shifts are in drag racing, I figure one should be equally concerned with them in any kind of race.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so the next step for me performance-wise will be exhaust-related. That said, though, I have a dilemma.

This engine only has 20k miles on it, but I eventually want to go with the most aggressive streetporting possible. I know that due to the overlap with some kinds of porting, a collected exhaust is preferable to the racing beat true dual. I already have my catalytics removed, and a Borla catback. I'd either go with a RB collected header, or bite the bullet and go with RB true dual. Are there any opinions as to what exhaust would be better for a large streetport?

Beyond that, I'm planning for coilovers, a haltec, and eventually a TII transmission and rear end at the same time as a Camden blower. This may sound lame for the amount of money that will go into the car, (probably another 4-5k, on top of the 7k I've spent rebuilding, restoring, and slightly improving the car) but I'm planning on aiming for around 250hp. I believe TechGreek ran high 14s on stock ECU, stock ports, a bit of weight reduction, and a Camden blower. I'd like to see 14 flat, maybe high 13s.
*edit* probably obvious, but I'd be upgrading to notably larger injectors as well for that kind of power.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

There's an ISC Front Section Group Buy going on right now, currently, the ISC full system probably makes the most power out of the available exhaust systems out there, the only downside is that it is a race exhaust, so will probably be quite loud.

Check out their site at www.iscracing.net.

In the exhaust section, their system consists of the ISC Header, Front Section, which is the collector, Midpipe, which is the long bendy pipe and Ultraflo Muffler.

What you could do instead on the street is buy the header, front section and muffler from ISC and two large power pulse 3" universal presilencers. After that, you could have an exhaust shop custom fab a 3" ID Pipe with the presilencers welded on that would fit the dimensions of the ISC midpipe.

You could also keep the dual configuration by buying the ISC Header and Front Section, Racing Beat Mufflers, Racing Beat Large Pre-Silencer, and have a exhaust shop fab up the 3" to 2 x 2.5" Y-Pipe that would complete your system.

Regardless, if you are going to have a heavily streetported vehicle, go with a collected exhaust. However, the true dual is probably just as good, if not better on stock or mildly streetported engines.

If you do decide to go supercharger, do something creative and better. Talk to the folks at Kenne Bell, see if they'd be willing to help you out with a supercharger install. A Screw-type supercharger provides boost in a similar fashion as a Roots blower, it's just better at it.

KB = Screw-type
Camden = Roots

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! the bold part is exactly what I was looking for!

I could be mistaken, and obviously I'm getting way ahead of myself, but I figure if I install the Camden setup, I could eventually use everything except the blower itself to bolt up to a Whipple (or Kenne Bell) twin-screw supercharger. That sound feasible?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Maybe.....I'm not too specific on the differences between the two kits. I'm looking at the description of the Camden. If you get lucky, you may only need to get a new supercharger and manifold, maybe a plenum to switch to a Kenne Bell.

The difference is that the Camdens, by virtue of being a Roots supercharger, compresses the air in the manifold, whereas the Whipple/KB's compress the air in the supercharger and slightly in the manifold. The supercharger compression is thermally more efficient, and you end up with cooler intake temps. You can also use an air-to-water intercooler for insurance, some KB's come with those built into the supercharger.

Last I heard, Whipples were rebadged Autorotors, whereas Kenne Bell's were rebadged Lysholm's, the Lysholm's being the better of the two.

As an additional exhaust idea, maybe run a long primary system? By long primary, I mean running the header length to over 100" by using the ISC header, and lengthening it by welding or bolting it on to custom pipes of the same diameter and running it all the way back near the diff and then run the custom pipes into the ISC front section. You could even incorporate some RB presilencers in those custom pipes or after the collector. Remember, exhaust tuning is very beneficial to a supercharged car!

Remember though, you can hit 176 whp on a stock engine, with just intake, exhaust and tuning. The engine may have to be rebalanced, but you can get to that power level.

Screw it, you want to get crazier, go get a blown turbo engine of the same series when your NA engine is ready for a rebuild and port. Swap the rotors and clutches / flywheels from the two and aggressively streetport the 4-port engine, in addition to rebalancing it to take higher rpms. You might as well spring for a sprung 4-puck and an aluminum flywheel to really let the beast out. 4-ports seem to do better than 6-ports all over the powerband when ported. Port match the manifold to the engine and have some fun. Your Haltech should be able to control this beast.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I just realized something.

Superchargers like engines that have zero overlap......I don't think any current 13B has zero overlap, save the Renesis.

MmSadda

iTrader: (2)

Dang, dude... you know your stuff. I'd read up on superchargers, but want to start with something really basic (or horribly old technology), i.e. a roots.

When you say 176whp on a stock engine, do you mean on stock ports?!? That's a fair bit more than I thought was possible; who on here has done that? I'd love to see how he did it.