solareon

iTrader: (1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YB-CUfe7Xsg

Dyno logged peak boost at 18psi but this was closer towards the turbo. Revved to 7000 on all the runs



Rtek Log from the run (time is a little off from the dyno)



Mods
Streetported S4 T2
Rtek 2.1 in MAP based timing mode
700/1000 injectors
BNR Stage 2 Turbo w/ Lowes manual boost controller
Racing Beat REV TII 3in exhaust
Ebay FMIC
Koyo Rad

Injector D/Cs topped about 83/85%

junito1

NICE dude.. But you really made peak power at around 12 psi....

Boost creep is dangerous as im sure you have heard... Torque kills engines and look at that torque when the boost creep to 18 psi..... A lot of torque.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I think the AFM is limiting me at this point. My boost controller is kind of sketchy so it might be bouncing.

Edit: It's not creep something uptop is causing the boost to drop off.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Nice numbers for a stage 2!

What value are you seeing for the AFM near redline? I've personally seen 800+ on my stock turbo, and others have had it go up into the 900s. I wish they'd include units on some of these things.

Also, it looks like your AFRs are bouncing around 12.0 under boost. Any detonation so far, since that's a little higher than most people are comfortable tuning to?

solareon

iTrader: (1)

My AFM is topping at 880 on the highest line. Haven't had any detonation. It did 13 pulls with very little tuning changes. The dyno WB was reading like .5 higher than my wb in the downpipe. Theirs was in the tailpipe though.

If you look at the AFM logging on the palm it shows like 35lbs/m. I am probably going to turn down the boost controller a half turn to keep the boost down around 4600.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

that is sketchy as hell haha but those AFRS are about as smooth as you are going to get with stock AFM.. it is maxed out completely. very good numbers for a stage 2 though

rx7 SE

iTrader: (5)

great numbers man! I'm curious though, I understand our s4 TII motors have the lowest compression ratio, but is 18psi still safe for the apex seals without the motor being pinned?

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

nice numbers! you have 200 FT pounds of tq on just the first set of injectors. are they staged at 4100? were the hiccup is..

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Staging is 3072 and it seems the ecu kicks them on at 3500 or so. right where that big inj dc drop is

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Schweet! Bet that makes for a fun ride! Damn, I guess I need to turn up the boost and lean mine out some I have a pretty similar setup. You should post this up on the RTEK forum and add some more details, your nearly double the stock power output.

Peak torque around 4700. I would think it would be a little higher with the street port? Maybe because the fluctuation in boost pressure..?... And whats with the jump in Airflow? temp?

Maybe you could post up the actual pdb file and I could check it out on the PLviewer..

Congrats, Freaking awesome!

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I'll post up the pdb and stuff tonight when I get home. Timing is the map that arghx posted so it may be a bit conservative. I didn't want to mess with the timing so I just left it alone. I think the peak torque is low because the boost dropping off due to either my afm/air filter being a restriction. Either that or my boost controller is a little sketchy.

Here is a pic of the front of the car to get an idea of the fmic size. It only sticks up an inch or 2 into the bumper skin. IIRC it's a 9 inch tall core that is 2.5 inch thick (sorry for big image)

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

VERY nice numbers. I can't wait to see that .pdb file also. Thanks for posting up.

AmviciousRav

iTrader: (5)

18 psi, what kinda port did you do on the waste gate or did you weld one on?

those are some satisfying numbers from a stock like turbo

awesome tq numbers can't believe your street ported or then again maybe tq doesn't drop off that much with a street port

solareon

iTrader: (1)

The wastegate port is how bryan at BNR does it. My boost controller is the lowes brass tee special so it might be a little screwy. Also I am thinking the afm is limiting what the turbo can pull through hence the low rpm for peak torque and the boost falling off

t24todd

iTrader: (7)

very good #'s. Wow another black t2 with almost the exact same mods. I wish you would hurry the hell up with the MS so TOUCH can sell it to me. We gotta do a meet up

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Nice to hear my timing map is working well for you. Here it is for anyone who is wondering.





You can advance it further if you really want to but be careful.

Also, your powerband look a lot like what you would see on an STi with stock turbo and the boost cranked up (torque might be a little lower though). If somebody told me this was an STi dyno sheet I would believe it.

Now go get some FTP's for that front bumper. I'll sell you some.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I need to get a front bumper that fits correctly before getting ftps. What part of the map would you advance it at? I'm happy with the timing up top but if there is something that can get the turbo spooling a little faster that would be nice

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i wouldnt be surprised if your wastegate line is not even hooked up. boost is falling off b/c turbo is running out of breath

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Wastegate line is hooked up. My manual boost controller is definitely a hack job piece though.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

One thing you could try is to "flatten" the timing curve a bit in the lower rpm range. It's a strategy you'll see in a lot of Cobb maps for example (Subarus, Evo, etc). So in this case, you could take your leading map and add about two degrees in the boost cells from 3200 degrees and under:



FYI I always try to preserve some kind of timing "curve," the way the timing actually progresses as rpm and boost increase. Look across your map, along the X axis, and you'll see what I mean by a "flatter" curve. If you just do a couple random cells here and there then you end up getting erratic timing as the ECU interpolates. Remember that you are usually tracing though the map "diagonally" as you spool up.

Now examine these Subaru maps:



That's the OEM "primary igniton" map from a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT (basically STi engine with smaller turbo), before any kind of ECU self learning.



And that's Cobb's so-called "stage 2" map, meaning that it is intended for a vehicle with exhaust and higher boost on the stock turbo. Look across each axis and how the timing progression changes. Note that these are MAF "load" based maps. Load is defined in the Subaru ECU's internal calculations as the MAF reading in grams/sec divided by the RPM. Grams/sec is a common unit for MAF readings (it's used in the Rx-8 PCM for example). One conversion factor is .1323 lb/min per gram/sec of airflow.

As you can see, no tuner "reinvents the wheel," unless you are a factory engineer and you designed the motor from ground up. It's not rocket science. Look at enough timing maps from enough cars and you'll realize it's all the same basic **** with some variations in strategy based on the actual setup and your goals for the car.

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

i was running a map very similar to arghx before i had steve kan tune it. he advanced that area arghx boxed out another 5-10 degrees, and it helped spool time and boost response a lot

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ I can see that helping on a lot of setups, and it's certainly worth experimenting. From my perspective though, I always have to be careful posting timing maps on the internet you know? Not that people often detonate under 3500rpm... but anything's possible.

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

Sweet, great info, nice numbers too.

therotaryrocket

sweet, so are you using the s4 afm? I think there is a way for us to adapt the s5 afm right? ima have to look into that, but then again I'm definitely not nearing the s4 afm's maximum capacity like you are with those big power numbers!

So is this a boost controller you made yourself? or is it like the NXS motorsports MBC (looks like lowe's parts) that I just bought off of ebay? now get a safer boost controller!

solareon

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I built it out of parts from lowes and a spring from this random stuff shop.