87 Turbo II, lightly tuned.
87 Turbo II, lightly tuned.
Hi.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQcdmUiv3o
Mods are 3" top speed pro-1 exhaust, specter intake, and Rtek 1.5.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luQcdmUiv3o
Mods are 3" top speed pro-1 exhaust, specter intake, and Rtek 1.5.
Boost? Well its whatever is a little bit above the "40+" on the stock gauge.
And then the injector cycles are whatever the Rtek ecu says.
From their site:
"Lower secondary staging rpm:
Normally the secondary injectors start adding fuel at 3800 RPM. The problem is that the secondary injectors will not come on below this rpm regardless of the boost being run. This can lead to cars running lean below 3800rpm even if they have larger injectors, fuel pump etc. Lowering the RPM at which the secondary injectors come on allows them to add fuel before the primary injectors start to max out.
Increase primary injector duty cycle cap by ~5%:
Raising the cap allows a little bit more out of the primary injectors. This works in conjunction with the lower Secondary Injection RPM to smooth out air/fuel ratio and get rid of the lean spot.
Timing retard above 9psi:
The stock ECU has no additional timing control for above around 9-10psi. This mod extends the timing control to give a little more safety for those running 9+ psi. Timing is pulled about one degree per PSI."
And then the injector cycles are whatever the Rtek ecu says.
From their site:
"Lower secondary staging rpm:
Normally the secondary injectors start adding fuel at 3800 RPM. The problem is that the secondary injectors will not come on below this rpm regardless of the boost being run. This can lead to cars running lean below 3800rpm even if they have larger injectors, fuel pump etc. Lowering the RPM at which the secondary injectors come on allows them to add fuel before the primary injectors start to max out.
Increase primary injector duty cycle cap by ~5%:
Raising the cap allows a little bit more out of the primary injectors. This works in conjunction with the lower Secondary Injection RPM to smooth out air/fuel ratio and get rid of the lean spot.
Timing retard above 9psi:
The stock ECU has no additional timing control for above around 9-10psi. This mod extends the timing control to give a little more safety for those running 9+ psi. Timing is pulled about one degree per PSI."
Passion for Racing
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 2
From: Crown Point, Indiana
Wheels = ewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww....
Invest in some lighter weight wheels; possibly something along the lines of RPF1's, GTC01's, CE28N's, TE37's, etc... Less reciprocating mass = less energy required to move the mass = more power to the ground. Also, look into a lightened aluminum driveshaft, you could possibly gain one maybe two extra horses by freeing up that extra mass too, as well as quicker response from the engine to the wheels. Also, aluminum driveshafts offer more streetability due to their tendency to flex a little more and not transmit vibration as much.
Invest in some lighter weight wheels; possibly something along the lines of RPF1's, GTC01's, CE28N's, TE37's, etc... Less reciprocating mass = less energy required to move the mass = more power to the ground. Also, look into a lightened aluminum driveshaft, you could possibly gain one maybe two extra horses by freeing up that extra mass too, as well as quicker response from the engine to the wheels. Also, aluminum driveshafts offer more streetability due to their tendency to flex a little more and not transmit vibration as much.
Last edited by REAmemiya_fan; Jul 22, 2011 at 02:31 AM.
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Is the exhaust just a cat back?
I would invest in a boost gauge and consider porting your wastegate if you haven't already done so. You need to be careful with stock fuel pump and wiring. Without knowing what kind of boost you are really running and having a wastegate that will allow boost to creep without adequate fuel, you have a recipe for popping a motor.
Otherwise good numbers for those mods.
I would invest in a boost gauge and consider porting your wastegate if you haven't already done so. You need to be careful with stock fuel pump and wiring. Without knowing what kind of boost you are really running and having a wastegate that will allow boost to creep without adequate fuel, you have a recipe for popping a motor.
Otherwise good numbers for those mods.
No, I hadn't done the port yet. I know I should, as well as rewire the fuel pump. The boost gauge still works with the Rtek but yes I know I need an aftermarket one too. Maybe while its stored away I'll be getting all that.
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