I made 160rwp in my car stock ecu and ports. Do you have any before after with the stock manifolds/halteck then Your manifold/halteck ??? Unless I see you hit near 200rwp I would not buy the manifolds. I suggest you tune the timing, a/f and get a RB header and see what happens because I believe I can make more then that with a halteck on my stock manifolds.

Interested in buying if you can make it work.

 

the engine is a stock s5 rebuild, the manifolds will be available as soon as i am done with it goal is 190+ at wheels. with teh weight of the car and the power its making now i expect 13s in the 1/4, already ran it on gtech now have to go do the same at the 1/4 strip.
i hit somewhere aroudn 67% on teh afm with the stock ecu and afm, i think thats the max the afm goes up to. that was 165 at wheels.
i never dynoed the car with the haltech and stock manifolds, i am pretty certain it wouldnt make much over 165 at wheels, i will think about swapping the stock manifolds on at the dyno. i know j9fd3s have a stock mnaifold and haltech and i think they made 160 at wheels.
the run with 180 at wheels that i did was with timing and af tuned. i still have a few more things to play with to get more power. i have a custom header, i dont like the racing beat header, i dont like the design.

 

So your saying that If I was to put a halteck on my 160rwp stock manifold car I would gain only 5rwp??? That doesent sound accurate imo. I'f I see 190rwp then I will know your manifolds did something over stock...

P.S...stock manifold/halteck = "no maf" stock manifold

 

good piont.

 

If I where to go with a aftermarket efi system, I think the best intake manifold would be the 6 port down draft style that uses throttle bodys with the IDA bolt pattern. Atleast thats what Rob@Pineapple and I talked about when I was thinking about going this route along time ago. CJ

 

that would be a pricy solution (1k+), as well as a bunch of custom work, and other fiddling ot get it to work. my point was to make very similar power but only at a fraction of the cost

 

DriveFast7 says he really likes the Lake City Manifold with Dellorto 50 carb and 40-44 mm chockes or something like that for his 12a J-bridge

 

Its only going to cost you 1k+ if you buy everything retail. And I don't know about you guys....but I don't pay retail. I've been down the aftermarket TB/Manifold road before. Ask me how I know?

http://www.sdsefi.com/features/may00mazda.htm

And there is'nt realy that much fabrication work to do. CJ